The location
Sitting slap-bang in the middle of the logistical cluster-bug which is JBR, the Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach might not be the easiest place to reach at weekend evenings – but arriving for Friday brunch the traffic was suitably free-flowing. And post-brunch, you’re perfectly positioned for a dusky, beach-side stroll.
The atmosphere
Spreading out in and around the hotel’s trademark AOC French Brasserie, guests can chose between the classic and classy indoor restaurant space, and the more relaxed terrace, which offers sea views and a live DJ dropping fun retro party tunes (Michael, Madge). But while you’re likely to be greeted with some inventive liquid concoctions, the music never pumps beyond a background murmur, enabling easy conversation.
The food
This is where Sofitel’s newly expanded offering most definitely excels, with a mid-sized selection of buffet and cooking stations trading amply in quality not quantity.
Loosely French in theme, the live mussels, waffle/crepe station, oyster bar and seafood soup stop are likely to make diners of a certain inclination swoon. But that’s not to overlook the wide selection of salads and terrines, obligatory sushi counter and a whole wall of cured meats. Relaunched and expanded in September, new additions also include the intriguing duck and foie gras shawarma.
The slighter selection of conventional “mains” offers mainly meaty European fare, but impressively even past 3pm, the roast beef carvery was soft and succulent.
Packed with sweet treats galore, the colourful dessert room’s claims to fame include the “world’s longest” eclair and “largest macaron known of”, while lazier folk can stop at the quirky ice cream stall outside.
And, oh my, save space for epic selection of humungous cheeses. The treadmill is most definitely calling me.
Who’s it best for?
Foodies who are out for a leisurely afternoon rather hedonistic excess. With a designated kids play area, and attracting a mix of friends and families, the vibe is more lazy catch-up than party central.
The verdict
After five years reviewing restaurants in Dubai, this writer has been left disappointed by an embarrassing number of buffets – but the distinctly French-flavoured Le Grand Brunch is one of those endangered species of brunch which actually lives up to its own pretensions.
The National was a guest of the venue.
• Le Grand Brunch takes place Fridays 1pm-4pm. From Dh245. Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach, JBR, reservations 04 448 4733 or RESTAURANTS.DUBAIJBR@sofitel.com.
