Nolu’s Cafe in Al Bandar. Christopher Pike / The National
Mantoo / mantu (dumplings) at Nolu's cafe. Afghanistan shares a border with China, which explains why dumplings appear on many Afghan menus. Delores Johnson / The National
Afghan chicken with tomato at Nolu's cafe. Delores Johnson / The National
The chefs serving the Afghan food at Nolu’s Cafe are all from Afghanistan – brought here by Ajami. None of the five chefs can read or write English, which means Ajami can’t write down new recipes for them to try. “I have to show them,” she says. “They remember.” Delores Johnson / The National
Qabili pulao. Delores Johnson / The National