From balsamic vinegars to cheeses, for me, it's the older the better


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They say youth is wasted on the young. And there's nothing like a dated photo album to drive home that tired idiom to this embittered soul. Last week, I cringed my way through a stack of Polaroids that shall remain under lock and key and forever be known as "the bad eyebrows hall of shame", in which a delinquent history of under-plucking was rounded out by the unique offences of my high-school years. Enabled by a tendency to obsession and enslaved by tweezers, I plucked out every last hair, then penciled a couple of arches using navy blue eyeliner, a remnant from the previous Halloween and the only make-up I owned. At 14, I was stupid enough to think that anyone who noticed my eyebrows would be noticing how awesome they were.

Even in a cultural era that's so phobic about ageing, all the anti-ageing miracles in the world couldn't get me to relive my awkward youth. Despite how much we proclaim to mourn the ageing process, we hardly resist mocking those who appear to deny its inevitability: cosmetic surgery that's anything but subtle, senior citizens with adolescent arm candy, age-inappropriate swimwear. If allowed, the grace and finesse that can develop with age can be very compelling - particularly when it comes to food. A helping hand along the way to moderate environmental factors is a crucial nudge in the right direction. There's a big difference between a blue-veined cheese and a piece of good aged cheese that's been left to moulder in the cheese drawer.

I turned 30 this year, which is half the age of the oldest – and the most expensive – item in my pantry: a 60-year-old Condimento Balsamico made from the cooked, fermenting must of Modenese grapes matured in a succession of barrels made from costly woods and coaxed along by bacteria colonies known as "mothers".

Balsamic of this quality needs to be tasted in order to be believed, and although some might enjoy it on a slice of good aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or some especially nice strawberries or vanilla ice cream, I enjoy sipping it straight as a digestif. A few heady drops of the stuff, dripped parsimoniously and molasses-slow into a glass, and a comfortable place to sit and breathe in its gorgeous scent is heaven.

Like a human being, the characteristics of balsamic vinegar vary constantly with the passage of time. It condenses, acquiring real richness and depth, eventually becoming something that inspires genuine devotion. Not all things mellow with age, though, and certainly not all things improve with it. Unlike, say, the small percentage of wines that were made for ageing, the overwhelming majority of bottled products were not made to continue ageing once bottled. A bottle of 30-year-old balsamic vinegar doesn't become a 40-year-old vinegar after you've had it in a cupboard for 10 years; it just becomes a 10-year-old bottle of 30-year-old vinegar. Sometimes we romanticise holding on to certain things for years longer than we should.

Foods that do improve with age include some of the very best things in this world to eat. There are those that improve overnight, such as stews, and those that are aged to make a product that is not wildly dissimilar in structure and application from its original, un-aged state, such as a dry-aged steak.

Tyramine is a natural substance that results from the breakdown of protein. It is generally found in foods that are aged - whether preserved, fermented, or just plain spoilt - and it's a process that begins in leftovers when they're just a day or two old.

It is thought that tyramine may cause the release of histamines, which result in food allergies, and that it may also trigger migraines, and it is contraindicated in the use of certain prescription medications. The older food is, the higher the tyramine content, and those sensitive to it may want to consider a tyramine-free lifestyle.

My favourite foods are high in tyramine: foods that are aged, dried, fermented, salted, smoked and pickled. Olives; corned beef; salty, fermented soy products such as miso; the list of addictive, high-impact umami foods is endless. Necessity is the mother of invention; most of these foods came about for functional reasons related to longevity and food storage, then stuck around because people grew attached to them. And many of them bear little resemblance to their raw materials. Cabbage's makeover into glorious, tangy sauerkraut was devised on ships where there was no refrigeration available, but I can think of few things I'd rather do with a head of fresh cabbage than turn it into sauerkraut. Aged cheeses have especially high levels of tyramine - alternatives for the sensitive can include fresh cheeses, such as ricotta, mozzarella, farmers cheese, cottage cheese and cream cheese.

Proper and controlled ageing can take something that is not meant to be consumed past its prime and turn it into something safe to eat - sublime even. Not everything was made to be aged, though. Nuts, olive oil, chocolate and coffee are irreversible once they make it over the hill. The same is the case with tea - with one exception. Pu-erh tea, from China's Yunnan Province, is processed, then fermented and aged. Rare, pricey pu-erhs can be as old as I am. This is the only tea that is intentionally aged for drinking - as a general rule with tea, the fresher, the better.

Leave it to the Chinese to figure out how to age tea – and even more ingeniously, eggs – without pickling them. Century egg, also known as hundred-year egg, thousand-year egg, and millennium egg, is made by preserving eggs in a mixture of clay, wood ash, salt, quicklime, black tea and rice straw.

It takes about 100 days to create a 1,000-year-old egg, although the first time I saw one, it would not have been hard to convince me that they were, in fact, edible Jurassic relics.

The egg whites morph into a resinous amber jelly, while the yolks become a sulfurous, Frankenstein necrotic green with a syrupy grey centre. Though strongly flavoured, they make a pleasant addition to rice porridge (congee), the Chinese breakfast staple, although I like them added sparingly.

Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

Who was Alfred Nobel?

The Nobel Prize was created by wealthy Swedish chemist and entrepreneur Alfred Nobel.

  • In his will he dictated that the bulk of his estate should be used to fund "prizes to those who, during the preceding year, have conferred the greatest benefit to humankind".
  • Nobel is best known as the inventor of dynamite, but also wrote poetry and drama and could speak Russian, French, English and German by the age of 17. The five original prize categories reflect the interests closest to his heart.
  • Nobel died in 1896 but it took until 1901, following a legal battle over his will, before the first prizes were awarded.

SM Town Live is on Friday, April 6 at Autism Rocks Arena, Dubai. Tickets are Dh375 at www.platinumlist.net

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THE SPECS

2020 Toyota Corolla Hybrid LE

Engine: 1.8 litre combined with 16-volt electric motors

Transmission: Automatic with manual shifting mode

Power: 121hp

Torque: 142Nm

Price: Dh95,900

Groom and Two Brides

Director: Elie Semaan

Starring: Abdullah Boushehri, Laila Abdallah, Lulwa Almulla

Rating: 3/5

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat 

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

David Haye record

Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4

Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

The biog

Name: Shamsa Hassan Safar

Nationality: Emirati

Education: Degree in emergency medical services at Higher Colleges of Technology

Favourite book: Between two hearts- Arabic novels

Favourite music: Mohammed Abdu and modern Arabic songs

Favourite way to spend time off: Family visits and spending time with friends