Fumee Steakhouse review: 'Golden' steaks and sharing-style starters take centre stage

New York buzz meets Mediterranean flavours in Dubai

The eatery is known for its 'golden' steaks. Photo: Fumee Steakhouse

A range of influences come together at Fumee Steakhouse. The atmosphere echoes the low-key buzz of a New York dining room, while the menu highlights the versatility of the Mediterranean–Levant. All of it is delivered with Dubai hospitality that leans deliberately casual.

First impressions

The restaurant has the feel of a members’ club from the get-go. Dark brown leather banquettes and subdued lighting set the mood, while the clink of cutlery and raised glasses cuts through a steady hum of conversation.

Once I'm seated, other details come into focus – high ceilings, New York-style tiled walls and orb wall lighting – that reinforce the private-club atmosphere, with a notably inclusive guest list.

The restaurant is done up in lashings of brown with ambient lighting. Photo: Fumee Steakhouse

My husband and I arrive for dinner at 7.30pm, and the room steadily fills. By the time we leave, every table is taken and walk-ins are being turned away – a clear case for booking ahead.

A floor-to-ceiling column of smoky amber glass anchors the space, adding a slow-burn warmth, while the bar is designed to complement the room rather than dominate it.

The menu

The menu is divided up into sections that go beyond starters, mains and desserts, preparing diners for a lengthy culinary journey. Those wanting to head straight for the steaks are welcome to do so, but for those who like to meander through courses, this menu is for you.

The sections consist of garden greens, starters, modern meze table, grilled selection, steakhouse experience, main course, signature sides and, of course, desserts. There is a lot of choice, but the selection feels curated as opposed to crammed. While the Turkish influences are undeniable, the dishes offers a good balance between Mediterranean and Levantine.

Velvet goat cheese salad at Fumee Steakhouse. Photo: Fumee Steakhouse

From garden greens, we choose the velvet goat salad (Dh65) of seasonal greens, goat's cheese, walnuts, raisins and a pomegranate vinaigrette. What arrives is a sizeable bowl of well-dressed salad with flavour-packed cheese we pick at throughout the evening. We are but two diners, but this would easily serve a table of four.

Keen to sample from each of the sections, we order the dynamite shrimp tempura (Dh70) from the starters and the standout tenderloin hummus (Dh55) from the modern meze table. My husband, who considers himself quite the dynamite shrimp connoisseur, instantly put the dish into his top three of all-time. Starters also include crowd-pleasers such as truffle beef tartare (Dh85), crispy baby squid (Dh60) and bacon jalapeno poppers (Dh70).

Chargrilled Wagyu steak. Photo: Fumee Steakhouse

For mains, I have the 200g filet mignon Angus +6 (Dh155) while my husband goes for the 300g ribeye steak Angus +6 (Dh160), which has to be among some of the most reasonably priced steaks in the UAE. The range also includes striploin and Wagyu, both available “golden” for those who like to be reminded they’re in Dubai when tucking into their meat.

For sides, we share creamy mashed potato (Dh40), chargrilled broccolini (Dh35) and creamy mushroom spinach (Dh40), the latter of which killed two birds with one stone, as I am forever torn between mushrooms and spinach as a side dish. The choice of sauces is not extensive and we are only offered peppercorn, not even a Bearnaise, so it may be worth enquiring if you want something different.

Standout dish

The tenderloin hummus is a standout dish. Photo: Fummee Steakhouse

The tenderloin hummus is an absolute winner. As a diner who is prone to prefer a selection of “picky bits” over an actual main meal, I could have happily wolfed down three bowls of this and called it a night. Creamy, well-oiled hummus, with a generous scattering of chopped, melt-in-the-mouth tenderloin, it is ideal as is, or scooped up with bread rolls.

Save or splurge

Whether because you’re watching your wallet or prefer a lighter meal, different appetites and budgets are well catered for. At the more affordable end of the scale, tuck into the flavoursome garlic shrimp casserole (Dh65), followed by smoked eggplant (Dh45) and fire-gilled chicken wings with mint, tomato, onion and garlic yoghurt (Dh75). For mains, try the classic burger (Dh75) and a side of fries (Dh30) for a total of Dh290.

Looking to splurge? There’s caviar for Dh600 per 30g, Adana boru kebab of spicy minced lamb for Dh130 and the Ottoman sharing steak, which is Dh1,450 for 1,500g.

A chat with the chef

Head chef Hudai Ozgul is all about bold flavours. Photo: Fumee Steakhouse

Head chef Hudai Ozgul isn’t afraid to bring a smattering of influences from his native Turkey to the menu, along with the culinary experiences he has picked up throughout his career in Thailand, Cyprus, Saudi Arabia and Egypt.

“In subtle ways, the menu reflects my own journey in different kitchens around the world, but always through the lens of a modern steakhouse that loves meat and is not afraid of bold flavour,” he says. “Having worked in many different countries, I enjoy mixing influences from around the world naturally in my cooking. A certain spice from one kitchen, a sauce or a way of grilling from another. At Fumee Steakhouse the story is about fire, flavour and craft.”

Like parents, chefs aren’t supposed to have a favourite child, or in this case dish. But again, like mums and dads, often they secretly do, and for chef Ozgul while “it is difficult to choose just one dish”, he does have some recommendations.

“For a truly indulgent experience, I would recommend the Wagyu rib-eye, which offers exceptional richness and tenderness with deep, luxurious flavour,” he says. “If guests want to experience the soul of our grill, the Asado is a standout choice, showcasing bold, smoky notes that highlight the craft behind every cut.”

Contact information

Fumee Steakhouse in Fairmont Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, is open daily from noon to 1am. Reservations can be made by calling 04 495 9888.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant