Como meets Tokyo at L'Aria, nestled within the elegant confines of Riyadh's Mandarin Oriental Al Faisaliah.
With the original restaurant located amid a plush botanical garden at the brand’s Lake Como resort in northern Italy, the Saudi pop-up retains its charm and pedigree with a menu featuring reimagined Italian and some Japanese staples.
The dishes are defined by their use of fresh produce and precision both culinary traditions are renowned for. Launched in December, the pop-up runs until February 22.
Where to sit and what to expect
Accessing the restaurant may be tricky for some visitors, as it is reachable through two gates flanking the hotel's circular driveway. I opted for the Mandarin Lounge entryway, located opposite the main lobby gate, and took the elevator to the first floor. From there, it’s a short walk to L’Aria, which offers a warm and inviting ambiance. Glass panels framed by wooden beams let natural light in from above, while plants and greenery line the windows. Round tables with crisp white tablecloths and light wooden chairs are arranged for couples and families. I choose a spot by the window overlooking the lobby, surveying the ebb and flow of traffic to the shuffling rhythm of a smooth Italian jazz soundtrack.
The menu
The brainchild of renowned Italian chef Massimiliano Blasone, L'Aria strives to balance the rustic charm of traditional Italian cuisine with some of the meticulous techniques of Japanese cooking. This vision isn’t confined to a single dish and is more reflected in the thoughtful grouping of Japanese and Italian offerings across various segments of the menu.
I start with the Wagyu Nigiri (Dh117), an off-menu special available exclusively during L'Aria's residency in Riyadh. Served in two pieces, the premium Japanese beef rests atop soft, pillow-y rice, elegantly dressed with teriyaki sauce and fresh truffle. Each bite-sized piece offers a luxurious flavour, melting in your mouth with every bite.
Next is the traditional Italian counterpart – the Burrata L’Aria (Dh78). Also available upon request, it is a thoughtful presentation of the Mediterranean salad staple. The cloud-like cheese takes centre stage in the bowl, slicing easily to blend into a vibrant medley of fresh cherry tomatoes and cucumbers. Accompanied by a drizzle of lemon dressing and a tangy burst of balsamic vinegar, it retains its structure without dissolving into a mushy mess. The cheese is luscious and creamy, while the combination of sweet cherry tomatoes and the acidity of the vinegar is a complex and harmonious contrast.
When it comes to the homemade black truffle tagliolini (Dh78), don't let the modest size fool you – it is an umami treat with its golden sauce of rich butter, parmesan and truffle. Finished with fresh truffle shavings and served atop delicate, thin noodles, each bite is pure indulgence.
The sea bass with roasted dotterino tomatoes (Dh186) is light and refreshing. Served over grilled cherry tomatoes with a zesty citronette, the moist fish flakes easily under the fork, while the charred tomatoes add a smoky balance to its natural sweetness. This was accompanied by a Mizudashi (Dh58), a smooth and cool green tea with mint leaves and lemon juice, complemented by the added fizz of non-alcoholic beer.
Dessert was a simple choice. I ordered what the variety of diners were enjoying that night. The crostatina (Dh73) was as exceptional as it looked – a robust tart with cream, fresh strawberries, pistachio nuts and a light yoghurt ice cream on the side. The pastry was crisp, but sturdy enough to hold it all together, while the tangy ice cream perfectly offset the sweetness of the fruits.
It’s the kind of dish that epitomises L’Aria’s ethos – thoughtful and unpretentious, where ingredients are always the star of the show.
To order or not to order
If you’re a fungi lover, don’t skip the sauteed mushroom (Dh44), which comes rubbed with butter and soy, then topped with sesame seeds and fresh herbs. The irresistible mix of nuttiness and sweetness makes it easy to wolf down with a spoon.
I’d be wary of the Wasabi Martini (Dh53), a mocktail of wasabi, syrup, sugar and non-alcoholic beer shaken with ice. While the lime-green drink looks stunning, it’s all sweetness, with none of the spicy kick it promises.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal can range from Dh205 to Dh773. At the higher end of the price spectrum are robata dishes, including indulgent options such as the Wagyu ribeye with truffle mayo (Dh479) and the spicy Black Angus filet with spring onion and black truffle (Dh288). For dessert, the Tortino L'Aria stands out – a salted chocolate cake with caramel, Maldon salt and vanilla ice cream (Dh73).
The three most reasonably priced dishes across starters, mains and desserts include the relatively spicy edamame piment d'espelette (Dh39); the penetta pasta with almond pesto, dried tomatoes and green beans (Dh146); and a selection of desserts – from three scoops of home-made ice cream (Dh58) to the crostatina.
A chat with the chef
Chef Blasone has been running L'Aria in Lake Como for about five years. He explains that the connection between Italian and Japanese cuisine lies not so much in the dishes themselves, but in their complementary culinary philosophies.
"The key is finding a delicate balance – each cuisine has its own distinct techniques and flavours, yet both emphasise ingredient quality and lightness,” he says. “By respecting these traditions, we have been able to combine the best of both worlds, creating refined dishes that honour the excellence of the ingredients, while maintaining perfect harmony.”
When asked about his favourite dishes to prepare from the L’Aria menu, he highlights those featuring his much-loved ingredients. “Lemon and, more generally, citrus fruits. Their versatility is unmatched – whether it’s the zest or the juice, they can elevate everything from salads and seafood to desserts, adding a fresh, vibrant dimension to the dish.”
Contact information
L’Aria’s pop-up at Mandarin Oriental Al Faisaliah runs until February 22 and is open daily from 6pm to 11.30pm. Reservations can be made by calling +966 11 273 2005 or emailing moryd-dining@mohg.com.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
