Henna artists employ empty space as an integral part of their designs. Photo: Amreen Wahid / Instagram
Henna artists employ empty space as an integral part of their designs. Photo: Amreen Wahid / Instagram
Henna artists employ empty space as an integral part of their designs. Photo: Amreen Wahid / Instagram
Henna artists employ empty space as an integral part of their designs. Photo: Amreen Wahid / Instagram

Henna designs: Meet five artists giving mehendi a modern makeover


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Ramadan markets all over the Emirates are replete with artists etching intricate patterns on the hands and feet using henna or mehendi. The earthy paste made from the leaves of the lawsonia inermis plant, has been around for thousands of years in the Middle East, North Africa and the Indian subcontinent. There also exists archaeological evidence of ancient Egyptians using henna to paint the hair and nails of the deceased before embalming them.

Today, henna remains popular as a natural hair colour for both men and women, and to draw ornamental patterns on women especially during weddings, festivals and religious ceremonies.

While floral and paisley patterns are the most common, several henna artists are giving the ancient art a modern makeover.

Here are five to know.

Azra Khamissa

No Means No, a henna design by Azra Khamissa. Dr Azra / Instagram
No Means No, a henna design by Azra Khamissa. Dr Azra / Instagram

Azra Khamissa, a Canadian-South African chiropractor with Indian roots, can be credited for revolutionising henna design in the UAE by bringing minimalist designs, simple geometric shapes and line drawings into the mix. She takes her cues from Arabian motifs, with creations such as desert landscapes and half-moons, as well as weaving flags, leopard prints, brush-stoked dots, crossword-style checkered squares and sinuous snakes together on the palm and fingers.

Khamissa, who has collaborated with Gucci, Fendi and adidas, says henna has the power to bring women together. For example, when she posted an image on Instagram with an “N” on her left palm and “O” on her right, she found it was interpreted in many different ways, especially in the context of the Me Too movement.

More information can be found on her Instagram account @dr.azra

Prabhleen Kaur

Prabhleen Kaur, a visual artist and textile designer from India, finds inspiration in her surroundings in Delhi for her offbeat henna designs: think folk art, old textiles and indigenous flora and fauna.

She employs these to create minimalist and symmetrical patterns that strike a middle ground between the design details and empty space. One design shows figs with their leaves extending from the palm to the fingers, while another has but a single pomegranate flower in the centre of each foot. Elsewhere, wavy swirls mirror the pattern on the pair of green Crocs she is wearing, while a henna art heron is her way of celebrating World Heritage Day.

Prabhleen says she is inspired by traditional henna artists, who drew using sticks or their hands rather than modern-day cones. As such, past patterns were more simple and geometric dots and lines were inspired by nature and tribal motifs.

“For me, henna is a medium more than a style. It's an earthy, tangible thing, natural and cooling and not gender-specific,” she says. “I find the medium versatile but very underrated, especially the indigenous henna art created by women in rural areas.”

More information can be found on her Instagram account @thesologirl

Sara Vazir

Spot the skateboarder and diver in Sara Vazir's pop-culture-inspired design. Photo: Photo: Sara Vazir / Instagram
Spot the skateboarder and diver in Sara Vazir's pop-culture-inspired design. Photo: Photo: Sara Vazir / Instagram

Sara Vazir, a salon owner and henna artist from Hong Kong who has teams in the Middle East and South-East Asia, is one to turn to for pop culture-inspired patterns. Sara’s Henna offers themed designs (everything from Harry Potter and Star Wars to Shah Rukh Khan), and travel-inspired art such as snow-covered mountains.

Vazir also offers more traditional patterns, such as the arches and minarets found in Islamic architecture, and even the bride and beturbaned groom popular among desi brides in the early noughties.

“I used to watch my mom and grandmom apply henna from a very young age. Henna runs in my genes; I’ve been applying it for as long as I can remember and worked with my first bride was when I was 11,” she says. “Travel and nature are my main influences, but I also get inspired by people. I love interacting with different people; their vibe and their unique stories allow me to create bespoke designs.”

More information can be found on her Instagram account @sarashenna

Amreen Wahid

UAE henna artist Amreen Wahid’s style is dominated by delicate designs etched out against plenty of white space, which lends her work a contemporary feel. Her go-to patterns include sunflowers, crescent moons, stars and planets sprinkled along the hands and fingers.

“I have loved drawing since I was a child,” she says. "My aunt and sisters practised henna art as their full-time job and I learnt alongside them. My inspiration comes from the magic to be found in gardens and vintage floral designs, and I love weaving in butterflies, stars and little hearts in to make it look like a happy hand."

More information can be found on her Instagram account @girly.henna

Sarah Walters

Sarah Walters, a data analytics executive from Seattle, discovered henna in 2008. She uses the art form to empower cancer patients who have lost their hair due to chemotherapy or those who have alopecia, and offers her services free of charge.

Walters designs “henna crowns that make them feel beautiful”, as an alternative to wearing wigs and scarves. The boho-chic crowns play out as origami-inspired cherry blossom patterns, paper cranes and brain phrenology maps. She also makes henna designs on pregnant bellies to help to-be mums celebrate their journey into motherhood.

More information can be found on her Instagram account @sarahennaseattle

- Henna mixed with chemicals may produce an adverse reaction, so opt for natural ingredients or get a patch test done

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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The specs

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Timeline

2012-2015

The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East

May 2017

The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts

September 2021

Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act

October 2021

Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence 

December 2024

Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group

May 2025

The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan

July 2025

The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan

August 2025

Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision

October 2025

Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange

November 2025

180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE

The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cylinder petrol

Power: 154bhp

Torque: 250Nm

Transmission: 7-speed automatic with 8-speed sports option 

Price: From Dh79,600

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Updated: March 12, 2024, 9:13 AM