Who is Harri, the Kerala-born designer behind Sam Smith's Brit Awards 2023 look?


Katy Gillett
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Harri, real name Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai, has a lot to celebrate, as his name made international headlines after Sam Smith dazzled on the Brit Awards 2023 red carpet in one of his looks.

The British singer wore an all-black, custom-made latex outfit with dramatic, ballooning shoulders and trousers, plus a pair of matching high-heel boots.

"What would you name this look? #michelinman," Harri wrote on his Instagram account.

Scroll through the gallery below to see more looks from the Brit Awards 2023

Who is Harri?

Smith's outfit was lauded among fashion circles, but this isn't the first time Harri has been the subject of conversation in the industry.

In fact, he first went viral back in 2020, just before the pandemic hit, after he presented his London College of Fashion graduate collection that featured inflatable latex trousers that were dubbed by media as "balloon pants".

It got him shortlisted for the British Fashion Council's Newgen initiative, which has previously supported the likes of Priya Ahluwalia.

He launched his eponymous label as soon as he graduated with a master of arts in menswear in June that year, and began working between London and New Delhi.

In September, Harri made his London Fashion Week debut, on the opening day of the spring/summer 2023 shows.

Now, he plays with larger-than-life proportions, shifting between materials and sculpture. "Building on personal yet universal themes taken from classical and surrealistic contexts, he focuses on the duality between the notion of clothing as an art and a mimetic practice," according to the London Fashion Week website.

Born in small-town Kerala

He was born in a small village in southern Kerala, where he had no exposure to fashion.

“However, my dad used to do artwork for local commercials, which inspired me to sketch and visualise things from a very young age," he told Vogue India ahead of his London Fashion Week show.

In 2012, he enrolled at the fashion school NIFT Bangalore, before assisting Indian designer Suket Dhir in New Delhi and then getting into the London College of Fashion.

The balloon pants really put him on the map, but while the reception has been serious, it was humour that initially sparked the idea.

"The initial idea about the trouser came from this humorous thought of visualising me from my dog's perception," he told Vogue. "Thinking from his point of view. 'How will he be seeing me?' 'Am I like a giant figure with big legs and a small head?' That gave me some possibilities about shapes, most of which were anatomically impossible and motivated me to look for a material that could satisfy those proportions."

He chose to work with latex primarily because it's a less-polluting, plant-based alternative to leather, he added, and is much more flexible and stretchy than cow's hide or PVC.

It was a unique look, one that had people such as MC Hammer reaching out to the then little-known designer, but the timing couldn't have been more perfect, he told the publication.

“When I launched my collection, it was the beginning of the pandemic, and the world was sad. Yet that collection put a smile on a lot of faces. So for me, that's just the idea. Nobody cared about the material or the technicalities; all they saw was this image, and that's my style — an image-making approach to fashion."

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Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

The specs

Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6

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Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

Kanguva
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Stars: Suriya, Bobby Deol, Disha Patani, Yogi Babu, Redin Kingsley
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The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

THE SPECS

Engine: 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V12 petrol engine 

Power: 420kW

Torque: 780Nm

Transmission: 8-speed automatic

Price: From Dh1,350,000

On sale: Available for preorder now

Medicus AI

Started: 2016

Founder(s): Dr Baher Al Hakim, Dr Nadine Nehme and Makram Saleh

Based: Vienna, Austria; started in Dubai

Sector: Health Tech

Staff: 119

Funding: €7.7 million (Dh31m)

 

'Brazen'

Director: Monika Mitchell

Starring: Alyssa Milano, Sam Page, Colleen Wheeler

Rating: 3/5

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Other acts on the Jazz Garden bill

Sharrie Williams
The American singer is hugely respected in blues circles due to her passionate vocals and songwriting. Born and raised in Michigan, Williams began recording and touring as a teenage gospel singer. Her career took off with the blues band The Wiseguys. Such was the acclaim of their live shows that they toured throughout Europe and in Africa. As a solo artist, Williams has also collaborated with the likes of the late Dizzy Gillespie, Van Morrison and Mavis Staples.
Lin Rountree
An accomplished smooth jazz artist who blends his chilled approach with R‘n’B. Trained at the Duke Ellington School of the Arts in Washington, DC, Rountree formed his own band in 2004. He has also recorded with the likes of Kem, Dwele and Conya Doss. He comes to Dubai on the back of his new single Pass The Groove, from his forthcoming 2018 album Stronger Still, which may follow his five previous solo albums in cracking the top 10 of the US jazz charts.
Anita Williams
Dubai-based singer Anita Williams will open the night with a set of covers and swing, jazz and blues standards that made her an in-demand singer across the emirate. The Irish singer has been performing in Dubai since 2008 at venues such as MusicHall and Voda Bar. Her Jazz Garden appearance is career highlight as she will use the event to perform the original song Big Blue Eyes, the single from her debut solo album, due for release soon.

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Updated: February 12, 2023, 1:25 PM