What drives subscription retailing?
Once the domain of newspaper home deliveries, subscription model retailing has combined with e-commerce to permeate myriad products and services.
The concept has grown tremendously around the world and is forecast to thrive further, according to UnivDatos Market Insights’ report on recent and predicted trends in the sector.
The global subscription e-commerce market was valued at $13.2 billion (Dh48.5bn) in 2018. It is forecast to touch $478.2bn in 2025, and include the entertainment, fitness, food, cosmetics, baby care and fashion sectors.
The report says subscription-based services currently constitute “a small trend within e-commerce”. The US hosts almost 70 per cent of recurring plan firms, including leaders Dollar Shave Club, Hello Fresh and Netflix. Walmart and Sephora are among longer established retailers entering the space.
UnivDatos cites younger and affluent urbanites as prime subscription targets, with women currently the largest share of end-users.
That’s expected to remain unchanged until 2025, when women will represent a $246.6bn market share, owing to increasing numbers of start-ups targeting women.
Personal care and beauty occupy the largest chunk of the worldwide subscription e-commerce market, with changing lifestyles, work schedules, customisation and convenience among the chief future drivers.
When Toni Harrison began wearing contact lenses at the age of 19, she didn’t anticipate how much of her income would be absorbed by her eyewear needs.
Now aged 35, the Briton believes she has since handed over the equivalent of the cost of a regular new family saloon car.
“It’s pretty scary,” says Ms Harrison, who works for an airline as first class cabin crew. “If I attempted to total up how much I have spent on lenses… easily over Dh75,000.”
Part of that is down to where Ms Harrison shopped for disposable daily lenses. A Dubai resident for almost nine years, she bought from local opticians, spending on average Dh400 to Dh500 a month.
Not every consumer is programmed to question pricing … but we did some digging and it was apparent that contact lenses were grossly over-priced
Earlier this year, she spotted an Instagram advert by Hopi, a Dubai start-up offering her “high-quality and moisturising” lenses at a significantly cheaper price.
She did a Dh100 one-month trial and has remained a subscriber to the service.
“It was during the lockdown period [that] they offered free home delivery – it was perfect for me.
“The lenses are comfortable, zero dryness, a must especially for my job, and I’m saving Dh200-300 a month,” adds Ms Harrison, who is putting that cash towards a distant learning degree course.
She is part of a growing legion of shoppers who have embraced direct-to-consumer, subscription-based or recurring plan shopping during the Covid-19 stay-home restrictions.
A popular trading model for years in the US, UAE firms like Hopi are increasingly launching with the “no middleman” format at their core, serving both appetite for better value and convenience.
Founders Kristian Stinson and Charles Wright resented “spending a fortune” on contact lenses and sourced cheaper premium alternatives from Taiwan, and gave them on-trend branding.
“I’ve only started wearing lenses for three or four years and was shocked at how expensive they were,” says Mr Wright.
“Not every consumer is programmed to question pricing … but we did some digging and it was apparent that they were grossly overpriced; it’s a monopoly market controlled by big pharma companies.”
Typically, he says, customers would spend Dh330 a month on in-store, non-discounted, major brand contacts, compared to Hopi’s 45 per cent discount, which is Dh180 a month or a total of Dh1,600 in savings a year.
“For some people, that’s a flight home,” says Mr Stinson, who credits the “lean, agile” nature of Hopi’s business that allowed them to operate from anywhere and avoid those “insane mark-ups”.
While peak pandemic directives meant many contact lens wearers reverted to spectacles, eschewing the subscription option, Hopi boosted business as value-seekers with increased screen time found them online and made bulk purchases.
“We adapted with the environment,” says Mr Stinson. “The crisis has made consumers re-evaluate how they shop, who they buy from and what they’re prepared to pay. It has thrown a spotlight on the direct-to-consumer business model and Hopi is benefiting.”
It now has about 1,200 monthly subscribers, with trade growing 200 per cent since Hopi's launch in January.
This demand for more attractive pricing is one reaction to Covid-19’s economic impact. The reality or prospect of income shrinkage has prompted many to seek better value when buying necessities – and relative luxuries.
The latter places Preeta Sharma’s Hand-Tied – a sustainable floral subscription service she co-founded in December – in a favourable position.
It delivers boxed fresh flowers to homes and businesses, embracing the notion that they shouldn’t be simply special occasion purchases. Hand-Tied’s operating model enables it to make and share savings.
“In the traditional flower business, waste is a huge problem due to lack of predictability,” she says.
“Recurring plans or subscription-based plans lead to predictability … we work on data and trends and procure the exact number of flowers to ship to customers.
“This leads to savings in the cost of goods because there is hardly any wastage of flowers or packaging material. We are able to reduce a lot of the traditional costs large flower shops have to deal with.
"We don't have a fancy boutique or office, we literally work out of a small warehouse and provide high discounts for longer-term subscriptions."
That can mean average customer savings of 10 per cent to 25 per cent, although Ms Sharma also highlights “the value we provide”.
“We are not in the business to sell you six to 10 roses for the typical Dh150-200 it retails for,” she says.
Subscription-based plans lead to predictability … we work on data and procure the exact number of flowers to ship to customers
"We asked ourselves, 'What's special about a pre-made bouquet of roses that costs much more than it really should'…instead, we ship you about double that quantity of unique blooms and foliage that puts you at the centre of the [arrangement] creation."
Disappointed by supermarket-bought blooms, Abu Dhabi teacher Sarah Jane Jones subscribed to Hand-Tied in December.
“I could easily find myself spending up to Dh150 per week in the supermarket and within a couple of days, the heads had fallen,” says the British mum of two.
“I love flowers, something I missed so much since moving to the UAE as apart from very expensive bouquets you can have delivered, I just never found flowers to the same standard and variety you get back home.”
Hand-Tied is her first experience of a UAE subscription business, and Ms Jones, 36, was “excited that such a concept had finally arrived in the UAE.
"It's easy to get signed up to something because of great reviews, but when it arrives, you are left feeling disappointed," she adds.
“Hand-tied, perhaps, has given me confidence to try and support other local businesses.”
Haul In One launched in February and delivers monthly personalised boxes of beauty products to subscribers.
“In the Middle East, beauty regimes are an intrinsic component of our daily routine,” says managing director Prachee Wadhawan.
“However, in recent years, and especially this year, with most of us remaining indoors, the emphasis on delivery has seen a notable surge.”
Once a customer completes their “beauty profile”, Haul In One staff curate products for their monthly “haul”.
Subscription and delivery models have never had a shinier moment in the sun
The founder says the service removes some of the cost risk of paying retail prices to try a product someone “may or may not fall in love with”.
“Some companies thrive on providing a small sample of their products as a way of getting customer buy-in,” says Ms Wadhawan.
“While this is great in some cases, the sample typically lasts one to two uses, and with current market conditions, not everyone is willing to splurge on expensive products that may not work for them beyond two uses.
“Haul allows women to refresh their current routines and also try new, full-size products for a fraction of retail prices and directly, in a tamper-proof, sanitised package.”
More than 200 women across the Emirates, typically “metropolitan woman aged from 25 to 55 years”, have subscribed to the service, which costs from Dh247.
“We are able to save our customers a sizeable sum every month because the box contains five to seven full-size products, featuring a minimum of two luxury brands and a minimum retail value of Dh450,” says Ms Wadhawan, confirming Haul In One endeavours to ensure partners and suppliers also gain from this alliance.
“We have been fortunate in partnering with like-minded brands and businesses … this has greatly boosted our ability to create and pass on savings to customers.”
With the pandemic striking soon after its launch, Ms Wadhawan says Haul In One overcame initial “hesitation to order anything from outside” to double subscriber numbers every month.
“Subscription and delivery models have never had a shinier moment in the sun,” adds Ms Wadhawan. “More people are staying indoors, so even segments that traditionally relied on physical stores are finding new ways to send products to their customers.”
Ms Sharma agrees. “This has indeed been the trend over the past five to 10 years in the region with an emerging sector of subscription boxes focused on beauty, baby products, clothing … we expect this trend to grow, given the mobility limitations Covid has imposed, as well as an increase in e-commerce sales and awareness,” adds the Hand-Tied co-founder.
“However, a subscription model requires companies such as ours to be very closely tuned with the customer and really understand what they are uniquely looking for while being able to build at scale.”
The bio
Favourite book: The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho
Favourite travel destination: Maldives and south of France
Favourite pastime: Family and friends, meditation, discovering new cuisines
Favourite Movie: Joker (2019). I didn’t like it while I was watching it but then afterwards I loved it. I loved the psychology behind it.
Favourite Author: My father for sure
Favourite Artist: Damien Hurst
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
The biog:
Languages: Arabic, Farsi, Hindi, basic Russian
Favourite food: Pizza
Best food on the road: rice
Favourite colour: silver
Favourite bike: Gold Wing, Honda
Favourite biking destination: Canada
Groom and Two Brides
Director: Elie Semaan
Starring: Abdullah Boushehri, Laila Abdallah, Lulwa Almulla
Rating: 3/5
The alternatives
• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.
• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.
• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.
• 2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.
• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases - but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.
Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
THE BIO
Occupation: Specialised chief medical laboratory technologist
Age: 78
Favourite destination: Always Al Ain “Dar Al Zain”
Hobbies: his work - “ the thing which I am most passionate for and which occupied all my time in the morning and evening from 1963 to 2019”
Other hobbies: football
Favorite football club: Al Ain Sports Club
EXPATS
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History's medical milestones
1799 - First small pox vaccine administered
1846 - First public demonstration of anaesthesia in surgery
1861 - Louis Pasteur published his germ theory which proved that bacteria caused diseases
1895 - Discovery of x-rays
1923 - Heart valve surgery performed successfully for first time
1928 - Alexander Fleming discovers penicillin
1953 - Structure of DNA discovered
1952 - First organ transplant - a kidney - takes place
1954 - Clinical trials of birth control pill
1979 - MRI, or magnetic resonance imaging, scanned used to diagnose illness and injury.
1998 - The first adult live-donor liver transplant is carried out
Women%E2%80%99s%20T20%20World%20Cup%20Qualifier
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Timeline
2012-2015
The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East
May 2017
The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts
September 2021
Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act
October 2021
Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence
December 2024
Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group
May 2025
The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan
July 2025
The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan
August 2025
Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision
October 2025
Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange
November 2025
180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE
Springsteen: Deliver Me from Nowhere
Director: Scott Cooper
Starring: Jeremy Allen White, Odessa Young, Jeremy Strong
Rating: 4/5
Who's who in Yemen conflict
Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government
Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council
Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south
Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory
What vitamins do we know are beneficial for living in the UAE
Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.
Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.
Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.
Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.
What drives subscription retailing?
Once the domain of newspaper home deliveries, subscription model retailing has combined with e-commerce to permeate myriad products and services.
The concept has grown tremendously around the world and is forecast to thrive further, according to UnivDatos Market Insights’ report on recent and predicted trends in the sector.
The global subscription e-commerce market was valued at $13.2 billion (Dh48.5bn) in 2018. It is forecast to touch $478.2bn in 2025, and include the entertainment, fitness, food, cosmetics, baby care and fashion sectors.
The report says subscription-based services currently constitute “a small trend within e-commerce”. The US hosts almost 70 per cent of recurring plan firms, including leaders Dollar Shave Club, Hello Fresh and Netflix. Walmart and Sephora are among longer established retailers entering the space.
UnivDatos cites younger and affluent urbanites as prime subscription targets, with women currently the largest share of end-users.
That’s expected to remain unchanged until 2025, when women will represent a $246.6bn market share, owing to increasing numbers of start-ups targeting women.
Personal care and beauty occupy the largest chunk of the worldwide subscription e-commerce market, with changing lifestyles, work schedules, customisation and convenience among the chief future drivers.