Flying into Kabul is nothing if not dramatic. The city is encircled by soaring mountains that make for spectacular views. Five airlines fly into Kabul from the UAE: Safi Airways, Ariana Afghan Airlines, Kam Air, Air Arabia and flydubai. Arriving at the airport has become a much more pleasant experience since the new terminal opened in 2009 and immigration queues are normally swift - but you must have a visa before travelling.
However, the generosity of the Japanese people, who paid for the airport, did not extend to suppling new luggage carts. The only ones available are either broken or manned by wizened porters who will wrestle you to the death for control of your luggage.
Diplomats and United Nations staff are picked up at the terminal exit. Those lower down the food chain - journalists and aid workers - must trek to the car park to pick up their taxi. For security reasons, it is advisable to book one of the cab companies that cater to expats. Two of repute are Afghan Logistics and Tours, and Trust. The trip to town will cost US$10 (Dh36). Braver souls can opt for a yellow taxi. You can negotiate a cheaper price, but the driver is unlikely to speak English. He may also kidnap you.
As for accommodation, the Serena is for now the only five-star joint in town - although a Marriott is under construction - but its status as such makes it a target for terrorists. The Gandamack Lodge is more low-key and does jolly spit- roast evenings in the summer.
Local fare centres on kebabs and rice, but there are French, Lebanese, Italian and Chinese restaurants and a British pub at the Gandamack mainly frequented by expats. If the city goes into "lockdown" because of a security threat, a company called Easyfood will deliver to your door. Or, indeed, your bunker. A word of warning, though: none of these establishments can be guaranteed not to give you food poisoning.
