Anyone wanting to understand why Nakheel is being offered US$8 billion (Dh29.38bn) of fresh funds should take a ride on the Palm Island monorail.
Seen from the road, the Gateway Station could be the terminus of a great transcontinental railway.
It is housed in a giant concrete shell rising 12 floors and with 5,000 car parking spaces. Four of them were occupied late Friday morning - the rest roped off behind plastic tape and bollards, unused since the Dh2.5bn project opened almost a year ago. Construction has stopped on the three towers that should have been delivered with it.
Behind the ledgers and spreadsheets scrutinised by the experts in Dubai World's corporate restructuring are projects such as this one. The offer by the conglomerate to its creditors reveals the full extent of Nakheel's role in amassing billions of dollars of Dubai World's debt since construction started on the first Palm Island project.
Inside the monorail ticket hall, the affable station manager explains that the weekends can be very busy. But there is nobody else in the vast hall, where a few TV screens show a Nakheel promotional video with images of dazzling island projects to an absent audience. Were it not for the station staff, it could be a scene from the Will Smith film I Am Legend.
In the front carriage of the train, Vinrod, a technician, explains that it makes 28 round trips every day. He assures that it usually carries between 25 and 50 passengers per trip, but the only other people on-board are two Russian women going back to the Atlantis hotel, where the monorail journey ends - 5.5km along a track that cost about $400 million to build.
Just a minute into the journey, the train pulls up at the gleaming Trump Tower Station, announced by a calming recorded voice as the carriages slow silently to a halt. But there is no tower to be seen. The builders got as far as starting on the foundations before the cash ran out, and now the station that never opened stands isolated in an empty site, surrounded by tattered hoardings that say: "Ordinary is for other people." The train pulls away without the doors opening and a minute later stops at the Palm Mall.
"It will be one of the biggest in the world," says Vinrod, one of 95 people employed by the monorail. But there is no shopping mall here, either - just a massive circular crater underneath the elevated train tracks. It is at least 50 feet deep and could easily accommodate a large football stadium with space left over. It has looked like this for nearly two years, and construction work has long since stopped.
It takes less than seven minutes to get from the Gateway Station to the Atlantis hotel platform, where on a clear day it is possible to see The World archipelago, also developed by Nakheel - most of which remain empty years after fleets of dredgers sailed from the Netherlands to vacuum thousands of tonnes of sand from the seabed to be sprayed out of their hulls into the shape of continents.
Aidan Birkett, the financier leading the Dubai World restructuring, explained last week why the proposal to creditors included billions of dollars in fresh funds for Nakheel.
"If you fix Nakheel, you fix the real estate sector, and you go a long way to fixing the Dubai economy," he said.
Among the thousands of column inches of commentary and reporting that have been written about the Dubai World debt restructuring proposals over the past four months, this remark is perhaps the most illuminating. It goes to the very heart of the critical role that Nakheel and the real estate sector play in the economic vitality of the emirate.
The challenge that Nakheel now faces is knowing what needs to be tackled in its portfolio of unfinished developments and what needs to be left for later.
Had the developer finished its first Palm Islands project before starting work on all its others, both the company and the wider Dubai property market might have looked very different today.
Demand must catch up with the oversupply of homes that have already been delivered before the next development cycle can begin. This will not be a quick fix: indeed, in the current economic climate it is likely to take some time.
In a statement on its website, Nakheel says it will "work closely with the Government to carefully plan and evaluate future projects". But now may not be the time to be talking about future projects.
All Nakheel can do is finish its most advanced developments and deliver them with an acceptable level of workmanship.
Then, when there is standing room only on the sparkling new Palm monorail and the car park is full, Nakheel may be able to start thinking about resuming the developments of yesteryear.
scronin@thenational.ae
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
GOLF’S RAHMBO
- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)
Essentials
The flights
Whether you trek after mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Uganda or the Congo, the most convenient international airport is in Rwanda’s capital city, Kigali. There are direct flights from Dubai a couple of days a week with RwandAir. Otherwise, an indirect route is available via Nairobi with Kenya Airways. Flydubai flies to Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, via Entebbe in Uganda. Expect to pay from US$350 (Dh1,286) return, including taxes.
The tours
Superb ape-watching tours that take in all three gorilla countries mentioned above are run by Natural World Safaris. In September, the company will be operating a unique Ugandan ape safari guided by well-known primatologist Ben Garrod.
In the Democratic Republic of Congo, local operator Kivu Travel can organise pretty much any kind of safari throughout the Virunga National Park and elsewhere in eastern Congo.
Tips to keep your car cool
- Place a sun reflector in your windshield when not driving
- Park in shaded or covered areas
- Add tint to windows
- Wrap your car to change the exterior colour
- Pick light interiors - choose colours such as beige and cream for seats and dashboard furniture
- Avoid leather interiors as these absorb more heat
if you go
The flights
Air Astana flies direct from Dubai to Almaty from Dh2,440 per person return, and to Astana (via Almaty) from Dh2,930 return, both including taxes.
The hotels
Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Almaty cost from Dh1,944 per night including taxes; and in Astana the new Ritz-Carlton Astana (www.marriott) costs from Dh1,325; alternatively, the new St Regis Astana costs from Dh1,458 per night including taxes.
When to visit
March-May and September-November
Visas
Citizens of many countries, including the UAE do not need a visa to enter Kazakhstan for up to 30 days. Contact the nearest Kazakhstan embassy or consulate.
Scoreline
UAE 2-1 Saudi Arabia
UAE Mabkhout 21’, Khalil 59’
Saudi Al Abed (pen) 20’
Man of the match Ahmed Khalil (UAE)
Silent Hill f
Publisher: Konami
Platforms: PlayStation 5, Xbox Series X/S, PC
Rating: 4.5/5
Mobile phone packages comparison
Awar Qalb
Director: Jamal Salem
Starring: Abdulla Zaid, Joma Ali, Neven Madi and Khadija Sleiman
Two stars
Yemen's Bahais and the charges they often face
The Baha'i faith was made known in Yemen in the 19th century, first introduced by an Iranian man named Ali Muhammad Al Shirazi, considered the Herald of the Baha'i faith in 1844.
The Baha'i faith has had a growing number of followers in recent years despite persecution in Yemen and Iran.
Today, some 2,000 Baha'is reside in Yemen, according to Insaf.
"The 24 defendants represented by the House of Justice, which has intelligence outfits from the uS and the UK working to carry out an espionage scheme in Yemen under the guise of religion.. aimed to impant and found the Bahai sect on Yemeni soil by bringing foreign Bahais from abroad and homing them in Yemen," the charge sheet said.
Baha'Ullah, the founder of the Bahai faith, was exiled by the Ottoman Empire in 1868 from Iran to what is now Israel. Now, the Bahai faith's highest governing body, known as the Universal House of Justice, is based in the Israeli city of Haifa, which the Bahais turn towards during prayer.
The Houthis cite this as collective "evidence" of Bahai "links" to Israel - which the Houthis consider their enemy.
How Sputnik V works
BMW M5 specs
Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbo V-8 petrol enging with additional electric motor
Power: 727hp
Torque: 1,000Nm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 10.6L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh650,000
Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
- Mortgages with better interest rates, faster approval times and reduced fees
- DLD registration fee can be paid through banks or credit cards at zero interest rates
TEACHERS' PAY - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Pay varies significantly depending on the school, its rating and the curriculum. Here's a rough guide as of January 2021:
- top end schools tend to pay Dh16,000-17,000 a month - plus a monthly housing allowance of up to Dh6,000. These tend to be British curriculum schools rated 'outstanding' or 'very good', followed by American schools
- average salary across curriculums and skill levels is about Dh10,000, recruiters say
- it is becoming more common for schools to provide accommodation, sometimes in an apartment block with other teachers, rather than hand teachers a cash housing allowance
- some strong performing schools have cut back on salaries since the pandemic began, sometimes offering Dh16,000 including the housing allowance, which reflects the slump in rental costs, and sheer demand for jobs
- maths and science teachers are most in demand and some schools will pay up to Dh3,000 more than other teachers in recognition of their technical skills
- at the other end of the market, teachers in some Indian schools, where fees are lower and competition among applicants is intense, can be paid as low as Dh3,000 per month
- in Indian schools, it has also become common for teachers to share residential accommodation, living in a block with colleagues
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