WHY BRUSSELS
Brussels loves to portray itself as the glamorous Capital of Europe, and it is certainly a fashionable, cosmopolitan city, great for gourmet fine dining and tempting designer shopping. But it is one of my favourite places for a weekend escape for a whole host of different reasons. Like its most famous son, the Surrealist painter René Magritte, the city is irreverent, eclectic, creative, stimulating and just a whole lot of fun. The native Bruxellois, who somehow rise above the partisan infighting between Belgium’s Waloon and Flemish populations, refuse to take themselves seriously like their famous neighbours, the Parisians, and could not be more friendly and welcoming to foreigners.
On arrival, I always head straight for the turn-of-the-century Museum of Musical Instruments, formerly a resplendent department store in the style of Harrods, whose magnificent glass and steel dome has been transformed into a cool cafe with the ultimate 360° views over Brussels. There is always a lot going on here, and the end of year is especially busy, kicking off in September with two major art exhibitions,
Kokoshka and Gauguin
at the Royal Fine Arts Museum, and just nearby, the Musée de la Banque Nationale de Belgique inaugurates a three-month Rubens show with 120 masterpieces from across the world. And then from the last weekend in November, the whole city gets into party mode with Winter Wonders (
), a giant month-long festival of street food, funfairs, parades, concerts and an unforgettable sound and light show in the Grand Place.
A COMFORTABLE BED
When it comes to classic luxury combined with the perfect location, just reserve straight away at the palatial Amigo (
www.roccofortehotels.com/Hotel-Amigo
, 0032 2 547 4747), nestled almost next to the Grand Place. This landmark Rocco Forte hotel, elegantly designed by his sister Olga Polizzi, boasts a gourmet Italian restaurant, and the stellar Tintin Suite, dedicated to Belgium’s most famous cartoon character, decorated with original lithographs by his creator Hergé. Rooms from €219 (Dh1,067), Tintin Suite €1,699 (Dh8,134) The city offers some splendid boutique hotels, but none is better than Odette en Ville (
, 0032 2 640 2626), a charming 1920s mansion with eight sumptuous rooms from €275 (Dh1,340) and a bustling ground-floor restaurant, a favourite rendezvous for chic locals and jet-set Eurocrats who love to live here in the swanky Chatelain neighbourhood. And how about trying "glamping" – Europe’s latest craze – just by the chic Avenue Louise. The Vintage Hotel (
, 0032 2 533 9980) is already one of Brussels’ hippest addresses, with an incredible collection of kitsch 1960s and 70s decor, and now guests can spend a night (€175; Dh852) glamping in a shining silver 1950s American Airstream caravan, perfectly restored and discreetly parked on the forecourt.
FIND YOUR FEET
This is a deceptively big city and public transport is not brilliant. Each visit here should begin with a tour of the Grand Place, arguably the most impressive square in Europe. The best plan then, is to pick a neighbourhood, grab a cab and explore on foot. The Mont des Arts (
) – the Museum Quarter – has everything from the must-see Magritte Museum to Old Master paintings by the likes of Brueghel, Van Dyck, Tiepolo and Tintoretto hanging in the monumental Royal Fine Arts Museum. Over at the Chatelain quarter is the home of Victor Horta (
), the greatest art nouveau architect, filled with flamboyant frescoes, mosaics and stained glass. Both parents and kids will adore another of Horta’s gems that today houses the Comic Strip Center (
), an Aladdin’s Cave of cartoon fantasy to rival even Walt Disney. One final sight that is difficult to avoid is the famous Mannekin Pis statue, which draws crowds of tourists day and night. What few visitors know is that he has hundreds of costumes, so don’t be surprised to see the minuscule statue dressed as Mozart, Nelson Mandela or Elvis Presley.
MEET THE LOCALS
There is a genuine cafe culture in Brussels and the moment a small ray of sunlight appears, everyone heads for the terrace of their favourite locale. The best spot has to be the square surrounding the ancient redbrick Saint-Géry market, where a dozen cafes take over every pavement inch from early morning coffee and croissant through till well after midnight. If the weather forces you inside, then settle down for afternoon tea in the grand leather armchairs of the Belle Époque Hotel Metropole’s palatial Bar 31 (
), a timeless rendezvous in downtown Brussels.
BOOK A TABLE
Fine dining begins with a meal at the legendary Comme Chez Soi (
, 0032 2 512 2921), where chef Lionel Rigolet has made his mark with dishes like North Sea lobster with black truffles and potatoes, and succulent veal loin paired with smoked eel, turmeric, caraway and stir-fried local vegetables. Unlike the often intimidating "Temples of gastronomy", having a meal in this intimate dining room is like being invited to a friend’s home, but be aware that this is the place where the city’s movers and shakers want to be seen. For special occasions, a small group can reserve the kitchen table and watch the chefs in action while feasting off the six-course tasting menu (€195, Dh950). Yves Mattagne is a two-star Michelin chef who has made his name with dishes using the fabulous seafood that comes from the nearby North Sea. The decor of his Sea Grill (www.seagrill.be, 0032 2 212 0800) restaurant is minimalist, reflecting a cuisine that avoids complex sauces and lets the products dominate the dish, brilliantly successful in creations such as a delicate steamed solette surrounded by clams and mussels with just a touch of seaweed butter (three-course "daily catch" seafood menu is €65, Dh316). On a Friday or Saturday night, no restaurant quite compares to Belga Queen (
, 0032 2 217 2187), where Le Tout Bruxelles goes out to eat and party. The setting is knockout, a breathtaking art nouveau bank with a cool nightclub and cigar room down below in the old vaults. Don’t expect gourmet cuisine, but the seafood platter is exceptional and there is a full vegetarian menu. No one can leave Brussels without trying the national dish – the simple but utterly delicious moules frites – a huge casserole of plump mussels with the best chips you will ever eat. Reserve at Aux Armes de Bruxelles (
, 0032 2 511 5598), a traditional tavern favoured by musicians, artists and actors, where they also serve a spectacular crepe Suzette, flambéed at your table, costing €13.50 (Dh65).
SHOPPER’S PARADISE
Fashionistas are seriously spoilt for choice in the Belgian capital. The stylish Rue Antoine Dansaert, heart of the hipster Sainte-Catherine neighbourhood, is lined with cutting-edge boutiques by the hottest names on the Belgian fashion scene. At Stijl you can choose between Dries van Noten, Raf Simons and Ann Demeulemeester, while on a quiet backstreet, Maison Martin Margiela has an exclusive all-white store. For more internationally known famous names, grab a cab for the Boulevard Waterloo, a non-stop haute-couture defile of Chanel, Dior, Ferragamo, Hermès and Bulgari, while just across the road on Avenue Louise – the Champs-Élysées of Brussels – check out Natan, whose designer dresses the Belgian royal family, and Delvaux, making luxury leather goods since 1829, longer even than Louis Vuitton. Brussels can claim to be the world’s chocolate capital, but resist the tempting aromas wafting out of the well-known boutiques of Leonidas, Godiva and Neuhaus and head for Pierre Marcolini (
), whose flagship store is seventh heaven for serious chocoholics. Marcolini looks out over the majestic Place du Grand Sablon, where you will find the top African and modern art dealers in Brussels. Each weekend, the square is transformed into a very high-end antiques market. A 10-minute walk from the Sablons is the Place du Jeu de Balle, a sprawling flea market that is definitely not for chic shoppers but a paradise for seasoned bargain hunters.
WHAT TO AVOID
Brussels may be home to the European Commission and Parliament but there is no point heading out to sightsee the anonymous Brave New World architecture of the European Quarter, which is populated by Eurocrats and businessmen rather than the friendly Bruxellois.
DON’T MISS
The Bozar (
) is the cultural hub of Brussels. This vibrant Palace of Fine Arts, to give this splendid art deco building its proper name, has no permanent collection like a museum, but a succession of dazzling avant-garde art and photography exhibitions, a concert hall and cinema. There is even the gourmet Bozart Brasserie, run by the Michelin-starred chef David Martin.
GETTING THERE
Emirates (
) now flies direct from Dubai to Brussels from Dh3,515 return including taxes.
