Traditional Ukrainian folk dress is firmly on our style radar thanks to Vita Kin, whose embroidered dresses were the outfits of choice for personalities such as Vogue Japan's Anna Dello Russo and The Man Repeller's Leandra Medine, during Paris haute couture Week in July. The vibrant colours, bold geometric patterns and dramatic tasselled ornamentation gave a relaxed air to street style, which had formerly been laden with sophisticated but stiff tailoring, plush leather leggings and the suchlike.
Vita Kin’s signature pieces are inspired by the vyshyvanka, a dress native to Ukraine that is traditionally crafted by homemade linens on handlooms. But her versions refurbish the age-old garment with baggy, billowy sleeves and thigh-high slits, giving a contemporary uplift to the traditional design. Each Vita Kin piece takes more than three weeks to make, since the sleeves, collars and cuffs are all put together by hand, in accordance with customary Ukrainian techniques.
It takes a woman with confidence, attitude, poise and worldly panache to pull off a Vita Kin design. The embroidery, macramé and appliqué techniques used are reflective of this season’s 1970s and deluxe hippie trends, and the overall look is one that alludes to a sumptuous gypsy, guided by wanderlust and known for her covetable style. The relaxed and shapely, but unfitted silhouettes are somewhat reminiscent of our region’s kaftan styles, and it’s easy to envision women in the UAE carrying off Vita Kin creations with an elegant flair. The burgeoning bohemian label has kicked up quite a storm since being photographed on fashion’s elite, prompting both Net-a-porter and MatchesFashion to put themselves forward as online stockists, though rumour has it that Vita Kin’s online supply sells out quite quickly. Multibrand concept store S*uce recently brought the Ukrainian label to the UAE – a fitting marriage between an eclectic and long-established Dubai boutique, and a bohemian brand that’s in demand across the globe.
hlodi@thenational.ae
