The place to get away from the luxury getaways

It's the thoughtful touches that make the difference. As I sat in the steam room, I was handed a pristine glass of water and a chilled flannel

An increasing number of top-notch hotels now have gorgeous spas with holistic treatment menus, so will the days of the destination health spa soon be numbered? I very much hope not. If I was truly distressed, stressed, exhausted or even ill, I wouldn't want to be surrounded by couples or families having a good time, or a clutch of suited professionals having a meeting. I'd want real peace, the care on tap that I needed and to be able to amble about without worrying about how I looked.

That said, I'm not one for wearing white fluffy robes in a claustrophobic atmosphere, surrounded by stressed staff, suffering gaggles of women chatting too loudly, and risking inexperienced therapists selling me toxic products after a treatment at the very time I just want to relax. So, what's my destination spa of choice? Chiva Som is still the diva of health resorts, because it offers a brilliant range of wellbeing programmes in a calm, quiet atmosphere that manages to feel exclusive yet unpretentious at the same time. Ironic, when you consider that a Thai businessman set it up in 1995 because he'd been inspired by his regular trips during the 1970s to the original Champneys in the UK. Once a well-regarded health resort, it is now exactly the sort of busy place I avoid for all the above reasons.

So what's so special about Chiva Som? It's serene and minimalist, with handkerchief lawns and huge banyan trees. The layout enables you to walk from room to spa to open-air exercise pavilion, so you never get that closed-in feel. Pathways lead to immaculate Thai pavilions with stylish Thai interiors - some rooms face inland, others overlook the sea. I confess I've seen far prettier beaches than Hua Hin, where Chiva Som is based, but its long firm flatness is perfect for head-clearing walks.

It's the thoughtful touches that make the difference. As I sat in the steam room, I was handed a pristine glass of cold water and a chilled flannel for my face. Fresh red rose petals were strewn across the women's ice-cold plunge pool daily. My room had a kettle, a jade stone cutting board with a knife and a daily supply of lemons, so I could make a do-it-yourself morning cleansing drink without having to wait for room service to emerge. The oil in my burner was changed from lemongrass to lavender, because I'd been having difficulty sleeping following a stressful work project.

Much of what makes Chiva Som great is what makes it special to be in Thailand - exceptional thai massages in open air pavilions rather than air-conditioned rooms; enlightening chats with a "consultant" Thai Buddhist monk; public spaces dotted with gorgeous displays of orchids; serene staff dressed in traditional costume - which seemed odd at first, but then only added to the gentle, traditional feel of the place.

Various themed retreats are available, from de-stress packages to special programmes for insomniacs. I did one of the detox programmes, and can assure you the resort has a well-deserved reputation for colonic hydrotherapy as well as the Thai abdominal massage, Chi Nei Tsang. There are regular visits from an impressive range of international consultants too, so you can tailor your visit if you've got a specific issue to tackle. The British chiropractor Dr Philip Parry, who lives in Chiang Mai, was the most impressive consultant I saw - his expert manipulation sorted out a painful "computer" ache in my arm I'd been carrying around for months.

You can dip in and out of daily group classes in everything from yoga and healing sound meditation to tai chi, pilates and thai boxing. Or just come to be pampered. Chiva-Som Signature facials and cocoons use products derived from indigenous Thai herbs and raw ingredients such as wild organic honey. The spa cuisine is plentiful and delicious, using herbs and vegetables from the organic garden. The Taste of Siam serves traditional thai food and overlooks the beach (though you pay extra to eat here if you're on a package), whilst the main restaurant serves more western-style fusion foods.

To get the best price, go in their "lean season", which is on now, though you'll find the packages pretty good value a lot of the year. An easy shuttle plane ride from Bangkok, Chiva Som sees its fair share of celebrities and Thai royality - but I never quite get why people point that out. Whoever you are, you'll be treated like a king or queen, even if you are having a bad hair day and have left your finery at home.
Caroline Sylger-Jones is the author of Body & Soul Escapes, a travel resource book of over 450 places around the globe where you can replenish mind, body and soul. Her second book, Body & Soul Escapes: Britain & Ireland will be published in November. See @email:www.carolinesylge.com