New York fashion week round up — in pictures

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  Ralph Lauren did what he does best and delivered a show filled with soft browns and burnished golds. Amid the ever-present safari references, however, one gown stood out. Caped and asymmetric, in regal purple, it was so skilfully carved that the silk seemed to embrace the model as she moved. Simply stunning. Angela Weiss/AFP

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  Delposo (a firm favourite of the fashion desk) once again blurred cultural lines, mixing tight headcovers (were they hijabs? were they balaclavas?) with voluminous architectural pieces. Boldly shaped jackets, trousers and skirts, unexpectedly chopped short across forearms and shins, were skilfully layered over skintight sleeves and necks. The shift in proportion was beautiful. Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images/AFP

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  Michael Kors offered a casual take on masculine tailoring for women, with oversized trousers that spilt over shoes, worn under elegant camel coats with slashed vents instead of sleeves. Andrew Kelly/REUTERS

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  One label to voice a political opinion was Pyer Moss, which sent models down the runway in tops printed with the words ‘Nothing to Say’, which, in itself, said quite a lot. Brian Ach/Getty Images/AFP

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  Marchesa presented an exquisite show, played out in acres of tulle in delicate tones of blush and grey. A welcome moment of quiet amid all the protesting, the stand out gown was a Cinderella-worthy, asymmetric confection of froth and flowers. Andrew Kelly/REUTERS

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  Narciso Rodriguez gave us an intriguing melange of sharp tailoring and fluid layers. Neat and understated, he worked a pallette of muted greys and creams to full effect. Jason Szenes/EPA

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  As President Trump lambasted immigrants as a threat to security, Anniesa Hasibuan sent only immigrant and second-generation immigrant models down her runway. In a warm mix of autumnal tones and subdued shimmer, she blended huge skirts with boleros and teamed trousers with cutaway skirts. Angela Weiss/AFP

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  Brandon Maxwell, ex-stylist to the stars, delivered a strong show full of attitude. As always, his women were strident and confident, this time in 1970s-inspired slashed sheath dresses, with cape-like sleeves. Lucas Jackson/REUTERS

The autumn-winter 2017 New York fashion week shows have come to an end, and although it is too early to see any true trends emerging, two schools of thought were running through the city. The 1970s continued to be a strong reference point, and on the other hand, lots of political points were being made. Seemingly aimed at the new commander in chief, a defiant tone added a palpable energy to proceedings. We present our favourites, in pictures.