New dimensions: why Dubai is my kind of place

My kind of place: From cultural curios to celebrity chefs, Selina Denman explains why her home base is her kind of place.

Dubai offers much beyond its glitz, glamour and gravity-defying buildings, including skydiving over The Palm. Pawan Singh / The National

Why Dubai?

There’s no denying that Dubai can be an assault on the senses – a barrage of bright lights, big billboards, glitz, glamour and gravity-defying buildings. It’s a city that can sometimes buy too heavily into its own hype, but it’s also not as one-dimensional as some would have you believe.

Much has been said about this “city of the future”, but what really sets it apart is the breadth and polarity of the experiences it offers – you can eat at Michelin-­starred restaurants or from food trucks by the beach; you can scour the malls for designer brands or pick up cheap electronics from Deira’s roadside stalls; you can go birdwatching at the Ras Al Khor Wildlife Reserve or skydiving over The Palm. Or, if all that sounds exhausting, you can just park yourself on a beach or spend the day at a spa.

A comfortable bed

The One & Only Royal Mirage (royalmirage.oneandonlyresorts.com; 04 399 9999) on Al Sufouh Road has been around for aeons, but is still one of the city's best examples of tastefully interpreted Middle Eastern design. Deluxe king rooms cost from Dh2,754 per night, including taxes.

Budget accommodation options are harder to come by, but for a stay that's decidedly un-Dubai, try the XVA Gallery, Art Hotel and Cafe (www.xvahotel.com; 04 353 5383) in Bur Dubai's Al Fahidi neighbourhood. Formerly an Emirati home, the property was converted into a boutique hotel in 2003, and features 13 rooms set among traditional wind towers and courtyards. Standard double rooms cost from Dh420, including taxes.

Find your feet

Start at Dubai Museum (www.dubaiculture.gov.ae). Located in the 18th-century Al Fahidi Fort, this throwback from the past is home to some dodgy taxidermy, but it'll give you an idea of how far the city has come. From here, wander through Dubai's Textile Souq, making sure to stop at Beit Al Wakeel for refreshments. This little-known restaurant occupies one of Dubai's oldest buildings, extending out over the creek, with fantastic views of age-old dhows and minuscule abras as they jostle for space on this bustling waterway. Jump on an abra and head for Deira, home to the Gold and Spice souqs. Then head to Baniyas Square and take the Metro towards Dubai Marina for an elevated view of the iconic buildings lining Sheikh Zayed Road.

Meet the locals

This is the tricky bit. You'll find plenty of young Emirati men driving supercars up and down Jumeirah Beach Road on the weekends, but for a more meaningful encounter, head to the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding in Jumeirah (www.cultures.ae). The not-for-profit organisation organises lectures, heritage tours, classes and cultural eating experiences. Don't miss the Jumeirah Mosque tour (Dh100 for adults; free for under-12s).

Book a table

Where to start? Dubai is famed for its ever-expanding culinary offerings, and has become a hot spot for celebrity chefs looking to conquer new markets. If you're looking for the trendiest eatery in town, head to Coya (www.coyarestaurant.com/dubai) at the new Four Seasons to enjoy such delicacies as ceviche of red snapper, truffle, ponzu and chives (Dh78) or Chilean sea bass (Dh162).

For a lower-key experience, head to Fume in Pier 7 (www.fume-eatery.com), where you'll find a welcoming vibe and pared-back interiors overlooking the Marina. The menu specialises in sumptuous comfort food, offering the likes of six-hour-smoked beef chuck rib (Dh98) and a pulled-beef brisket bun (Dh54).

For a real taste of Dubai's culinary diversity, join one of the food tours offered by the Dubai-based blogger Samantha Wood, aka FooDiva. Wood organises monthly Dine Around Dubai tours that stop at five carefully selected restaurants. The experience costs Dh1,050 (www.foodiva.net/events), which includes five courses, beverages and transfers.

Shopper’s paradise

There’s no shortage of malls here. Head to Dubai Mall if you don’t mind walking for miles to find that one shop. Mall of the Emirates offers many of the same brands and is far more manageable. But Dubai’s style savants will head to smaller, independent boutiques on Jumeirah Beach Road, such as S*uce, which offers a host of up-and-coming regional designers, and Comptoir 102, which stocks edgy fashion and homewares.

What to avoid

The city is home to pockets of extreme pretentiousness. Steer clear of jaunts where you suspect you might be sneered at by sanctimonious door staff. As a general rule, avoid any place with a line of Lamborghinis parked out front.

Don’t miss

The Dubai Fountain is one of the city's most clichéd tourist attractions, but there's a reason why – this watery spectacle will wow even the most cynical Dubai resident. Watch the show from the balcony of the Rivington Grill in Souk Al Bahar (www.soukalbahar.ae) or get a bird's-eye view from the glass-fronted relaxation room of The Spa at the Address Downtown Dubai (www.theaddress.com).

Getting there

Dubai Bus (www.dubai-bus.com) runs regular services to Dubai from all other emirates, including from Abu Dhabi's Central Bus Station every 15 minutes. It'll set you back a mere Dh25.

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