Masaba Gupta is a name to watch in Indian fashion

The young designer Masaba Gupta is making a name for herself in India with her refreshing take on women's clothing.

The young fashion designer Masaba Gupta poses at her store in Mumbai. Indranil Mukherjee / AFP

She’s already a leading name in Indian fashion, with customers ranging from top Bollywood stars to teenage girls.

Yet 25-year-old Masaba Gupta – best known for her quirky cow and camera prints that adorn saris, dresses and even smartphone covers – puts much of her whirlwind success down to intuition.

“My gut just somehow ... tells me that this is going to be the next big thing,” she says at her flagship Masaba store in Mumbai’s trendy suburb of Juhu. “Luckily, I know it before anyone else does.”

The daughter of the West Indies cricket legend Viv Richards and the Bollywood actress Neena Gupta – who shared a relationship in the 1980s – the young designer says many people “write me off as a product of my parents and social media”, but her clothes appear to be challenging the critics.

Alongside the rise of her eponymous brand, Gupta was in 2012 appointed the youngest creative director for the prestigious ethnic-wear label Satya Paul – a rare move in the world of Indian fashion houses, which tend not to hire big outside names.

From lipstick patterns to the Tamil script, her unconventional trademark prints have proved so popular that counterfeits have flowed into the market, prompting her recently to set up the more affordable Masaba Lite line for ­teenagers.

It is an impressive CV for someone who stumbled into fashion because no other college courses were still open.

“I had nothing else to do,” admits Gupta, dressed in high-street culottes and gold sandals, over a cup of tea in her store.

Attending catwalk shows as a student, she found Indian fashion “was running at this really slow, stale pace” with an evident gap in the market.

“I felt like everybody was doing bridal, there was no such thing as ‘prêt’ – ready-to-wear was just not something that you heard of,” says Gupta, who officially opened the winter edition of Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai last week by displaying one of her collections.

“A designer needs to sell either bridal or mass [fashion] to be able to make money and at the end of the day, it is about making money,” she says. “I can’t do bridal, it’s not my aesthetic, so I thought that I’ll go the mass way.”

Selling clothes and accessories in the range of 900-6,000 rupees (Dh54-Dh364) in her new Masaba Lite line, Gupta is hoping it will become “like an Indian H&M”, referring to the hugely popular Swedish high-street chain.

“Why buy a fake when you can get the original at the same price?” asks the website for the brand, which she has launched with westernwear, but intends to expand to include Indian ­clothing.

Gupta says she wants young girls “to own a sari each”, recalling an occasion when three teenagers walked into her shop and pooled their pocket money together to buy a single drape.

When designing for the Masaba brand – her original higher-end label aimed at women in their 20s – Gupta naturally veered towards a fusion of styles, be it westernised prints on Indian silhouettes or vice versa.

The fashion writer Shefalee Vasudev, the author of Powder Room: The Untold Story of Indian Fashion, hailed Gupta’s “refreshing” approach to prints, saying her idea of India “doesn’t derive from self-conscious patriotism for the crafts legacies of our country”.

She continues: “Instead, she has been able to think, define and express her sense of contemporary Indianness through unusual modern prints [and] play off colour, even when she makes saris or tunics which are common silhouettes in Indian fashion.”

Not all critics have been so impressed, but Gupta says she is most interested in the feedback of those who buy her clothes, so she keeps a close eye on her Instagram and Twitter accounts.

“If one girl says it, I know that five girls have probably discussed it,” she says.

Being of mixed Indian and Afro-Caribbean background, Gupta’s rapid ascent is all the more unusual in an industry and a country where fair skin is equated with beauty and prosperity. But she says she has found success to be the best deterrent to prejudice.

“You have to surpass what people may think of you to be able to reach that level where no one comments on you,” she says. “But India will always be a fair-skin-obsessed country; it’s never going to change.”

Both her parents influenced her style, especially her mother, she says, who she watched in her childhood “cutting up her saris, patching stuff on to them, making her own blouses”.

Gupta has also enjoyed the backing of modern Bollywood stars such as Sonam Kapoor and Priyanka Chopra – endorsements she believes are key in the movie-mad country.

But she criticises Indian designers who rely on celebrity dressing instead of fresh ideas and business sense.

“Even I have to constantly keep reinventing myself,” she says. “Prints are something that can run out of fashion very quickly.”