Light up the room: Festival fashion for Diwali

Bollywood designers share their style tips ahead of the Indian festival of light, Diwali, on October 30.

Nelly Furtado wears a bespoke design by Sujata & Sanjay while performing in India in 2006. Courtesy Sujata & Sanjay

If you’ve ever dreamt of dressing like a Bollywood star, next Sunday is your time to shine. It marks Diwali, the Indian festival of lights, and there will be no shortage of celebrations across the UAE, from family homes to five-star hotels. If you’re pondering the correct dress code, the experts are here to help.

Two Indian fashion brands with roots in the UAE who regularly dress Indian film stars, are Anjali K Couture by designer Anjali Khushalani, and ­Sujata & ­Sanjay, which is co-owned by Sanjay Lalwani and Sujata Ahuja.

"Our Diwali collection is called Earthen Ensemble," says Lalwani. "It pays tribute to the rich cultural heritage of India, with its use of materials from the different states of the subcontinent. There's brocade from the north, jute from the Deccan plateau, tussar silk from the east, ikat [dyed patterned textiles] and hand-spun khadi from the south-west."

Sujata & Sanjay’s signature style melds traditional Indian fabrics and artisanal techniques with Western silhouettes and Arabic detailing. Their Diwali range has broad cross-cultural appeal, featuring jumpsuits, military jackets and asymmetric tunics alongside draped ­dhoti salwar pants. “The heritage of our fabrics, mixed with traditional embroidery and modern cuts, particularly speaks to younger generations,” says Lalwani. “Change is constant, and while tastes have evolved in the past thirty years, the essence of a festival such as Diwali ­remains the same.

“It is a festival of light, joy and spreading happiness. And like most Indian festivals, it allows you to wear bright colours – the brighter the better.”

Bollywood actors Sujata & Sanjay have dressed include Sunny Leone, Isha Koppikar, and Ankita Lokhande. They also dressed Canadian singer Nelly Furtado when she performed in Mumbai in 2006. “I’m very proud of our designs for Nelly, in particular a Western-influenced traditional kurti, and a dress with numerous pieces of chiffon and printed layers coming from its bodice – it was a garment that danced with her,” says Lalwani. “As for Bollywood actresses, they are very comfortable experimenting with different looks these days and love designs that are ‘out of the box’. So that’s why I always design from the heart. And ­after all, if it’s beautiful, of course ­people will love it.”

Khushalani agrees that shifts are occurring in what used to be viewed as a ­c­onservative Indian fashion ­industry. “A lot is changing, especially for men during Diwali,” she says. “I remember well how pretty much everyone used to just wear traditional kurta pyjamas. ­Nowadays, they are experimenting more – wearing Nehru jackets with jeans or pants, for example. It’s still Indian but more modern and very comfortable.”

Khushalani has spent recent months completing bespoke orders for clients ahead of Sunday’s annual festivities. Featuring prominently for ladies this season are long, flowing, pleated lehenga skirts in bold shades of red, blue and orange.

“Pieces are traditional but with contemporary twists, such as using lighter fabrics to achieve the same look and feel. That’s popular,” she says. “We’re also creating pieces that are more ‘blingy’ than usual, because it’s Diwali. That means using a lot of sequins, which really brings out the embroidery of the outfit.”

As Khushalani’s creations have become more ethnically diverse over the years, so have her customers. Arab clients, for example, come to her for abayas and jalabiyas customised with intricate Indian embroidery. She says she also “has fun dressing up” Western clients who will be attending their first Indian ­wedding.

For women of all cultures looking to add a touch of Bollywood glamour to their wardrobe this Diwali, Khushalani has a few simple recommendations. “Crop tops and full skirts are very ‘in’ at the moment,” she says. “Both are very adaptable and can be worn to Indian functions as well as Western ones. Statement jewellery looks great with them. The pieces are easy to wear, very comfortable and you’ll look beautiful.”

• Visit Sujata & Sanjay at Aara Fashion studio, villa 375a, Al Wasl Road, Dubai. Anjali K Couture is at Al Hudaiba Awards Complex, C Block, Jumeirah, Dubai

Where to get the look

Where Aara is a ­multi-brand store ­located in villa 357a, Al Wasl Road, Dubai. It is the brainchild of ­fashion-loving entrepreneur Heena Hussain.

What A collective of Indian, Pakistani and Arabic designers are housed in the retail space and ­showcase their seasonal ­collections of ready-to-wear, contemporary couture, bridal and ­ethnic fusion-wear.

For him Gaurang Shah uses luxurious hand-loomed fabrics in his creation of sherwanis and dhoti-kurtas for men. He also ­designs saris and ­salwar kameez for ladies.

For her Sounia Gohil's ultra-feminine gowns are curve-enhancing and intricately detailed. The designer is best-known for her skilful incorporation of Mughal architectural features into her work.

For all Other designers include Varun Bahl, Ammar Shahid, Halima Seemba and Rimple & Harpreet Narula.