Why the Cotswolds?
The Cotswolds is perhaps the United Kingdom’s most bucolic district, and stretches from Cheltenham in the west to Bath in the south, east into Oxfordshire and north to Worcestershire/Warwickshire. Rolling hills and widespread golden Cotswold stone in construction help make it one of England’s Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Despite being a real get-away-from-it-all wonder, its location, in southern central England, means it’s only 90 minutes from London and within striking distance of the second city, Birmingham. All of which makes it a popular base for British royalty (Prince Charles, Princess Anne), Hollywood A-listers (Kate Winslet), pop stars (Lily Allen) and other celebs (the model Kate Moss). But what really cements its status is the overarching feeling of British life from a simpler time – from quaint village shops to steam railways; castles to country lanes.
A comfortable bed
Lords of the Manor (www.lordsofthemanor.com; 0044 1451 820243), in the fantastically named village Upper Slaughter, lives up to its title. A mid-17th-century country house/former rectory, it boasts unique rooms, gorgeous verdant grounds and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Extra toff points for free use of Wellington boots if you fancy a rural ramble. Double rooms cost from £249 (Dh1,429), including taxes, breakfast and Wi-Fi.
Barnsley House (www.barnsleyhouse.com; 0044 1285 740000), in the tiny village Barnsley, has 18 different rooms bursting with eccentric features – a bathtub at the end of the bed, for example. Other perks include a spa, plus complimentary use of pushbikes, a tennis court and an in-house cinema. Across the road is The Village Pub, owned by the hotel, full of low-ceilinged, open-fire-heated charm. Doubles cost from £210 (Dh1,208) per night, including taxes, breakfast and Wi-Fi.
The five-star Ellenborough Park (www.ellenboroughpark.com; 0044 1242 806708) is the place for equestrian fans, with a private route to the world-famous Cheltenham Racecourse. Equestrian-themed artworks line the walls, with English flourishes, including coats of arms, among the decorations in reception. The grandiose Beaufort dining room is worth a stand-alone visit – the chef has previously cooked for the Queen. Doubles cost from £184 (Dh1,058), including taxes, breakfast and Wi-Fi.
Find your feet
At 145 kilometres long by 40km wide, the Cotswolds aren't for traversing by foot, and public transport doesn't serve some of the remotest, most idyllic areas, so rent a car and get exploring. Start from Cleeve Hill, the region's highest point, then head east to Bourton-on-the-Water, perhaps the most quintessential of the larger Cotswolds villages, home to quirky attractions such as the Cotswold Motoring Museum & Toy Collection (www.cotswoldmotoringmuseum.co.uk; 0044 1451 821255) and The Model Village (www.themodelvillage.com; 0044 1451 820467). Journey south-west through the historic Roman town Cirencester to Westonbirt Arboretum (www.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt; 0044 300 067 4890), a remarkable collection of 15,000 trees from around the world. It also hosts concerts by household-name pop/rock acts.
Meet the locals
One of the most delightful places to chat to enthusiastic locals is the Gloucestershire Warwickshire Railway (www.gwsr.com; 0044 1242 621405). Step back in time via restored steam and diesel trains travelling on a 19km stretch of track centred around the GWR's main station at Toddington, where there's also tea rooms and a small museum. Tickets cost from £7 (Dh40).
Book a table
The Cotswolds is a haven of gastropubs and fabulous cosy restaurants. Among the finest in the former category is The Wheatsheaf Inn in Northleach (www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com; 0044 1451 860244). The pea and broad bean risotto (£10 [Dh58]) tastes so fresh you suspect the greens came from the pub's grounds. Its terraced garden is radiant on a sunny day.
The Pudding Club at Three Ways House (www.threewayshousehotel.com; 0044 1386 438429) is such an institution it has its own road signs near its base in Mickleton, near Chipping Campden. The club runs weekly, but it's all about dessert every day at Randall's Brasserie: the hearty jam and coconut pudding with "lashings" of custard is worth twice its £6 (Dh35) price tag.
No trip to rural England is complete without traditional afternoon tea, a speciality at The Snooty Fox (www.snooty-fox.co.uk; 0044 1666 502436) in Tetbury, in wood-panelled surrounds, from £7 (Dh40) per person. Prince Charles's residence Highgrove House is nearby – royals are occasionally seen around Tetbury.
Shopper’s paradise
The Cotswolds' star turn is local produce. Hayles Fruit Farm (www.haylesfruitfarm.co.uk; 0044 1242 602123) at Winchcombe is a top stop-off for pick-your-own.
Broadway Deli (www.broadwaydeli.co.uk; 0044 1386 853040) describes itself as part gift shop, part larder. Stacked with preserves, condiments, cheeses, meats and more – plan a picnic and stock up here.
Don’t miss
Sudeley Castle (www.sudeleycastle.co.uk; 0044 1242 602308), a Tudor castle with strong connections to King Henry VIII – the last of his wives, Katherine Parr, is buried in the site's enchanting 15th-century church. Admission costs from £14.50 (Dh83).
What to avoid
The winter, when inclement weather ranges from a dreary inconvenience (rain) to cutting off remote roads/villages (snow).
Go there
Etihad (www.etihad.com) and Emirates (www.emirates.com) both fly to London from Dh2,925. From London, direct trains (www.nationalrail.co.uk) to various Cotswolds stations take about 90 minutes and cost from about £21 (Dh121).
aworkman@thenational.ae
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