The welcome
The hotel’s grand Portland stone exterior dates from about 1912. Guests pass through an archway with big iron gates into a grand courtyard, which feels like an Edwardian manor house or mansion. Doormen are traditionally dressed, which adds to the sense of occasion. Though it has some original features, the lobby feels more modern, with coffee-table books, contemporary art and a new black-and-white striped floor – elsewhere, the floors are marble. The slightly dim lighting is just right.
The neighbourhood
The hotel is on High Holborn, an area known for the legal profession. It’s not far from Covent Garden and its Central Line Underground station is just round the corner.
The scene
The front section of the ground floor houses the Holborn Dining Room and Scarfes Bar, both very attractive venues that are open to outside guests. The Mirror Room and other parts of the hotel are for guests only, but I prefer the Holborn Dining Room for its sense of energy. Scarfes Bar exudes wealth and decadence, and sometimes hosts cabaret nights. I’m pleased that the cavernous hallways and marble staircase have not been overly refurbished. The best thing, though, is that this doesn’t feel like a hotel with more than 300 rooms – it feels smaller and more exclusive, almost like a country house.
The room
My room is a first-floor signature suite, called the Noble House. It’s got 100 square metres of space, and faces the inner courtyard, so is quiet apart from the rumble of the Underground trains below – and the fact the bedroom has a locked door onto the corridor. The huge mirrored and marble bathroom is a highlight, as is the lavish entry hall (complete with thick wooden doors and an old-fashioned bell) and very comfortable sitting room, with a large complimentary mini bar and small study.
The service
There always seem to be about three members of staff standing to attention at the concierge desk when I pass. In the Mirror Room, where I go for breakfast on the first day, there are very few other guests, but staff are very slow and flustered, taking ages to clear my requested table. My butler (not that I really need one) introduces herself on the first day, but is then off for the next two days. The concierge swiftly notifies me of a package delivery.
The food
A friend and I share dinner at the Holborn Dining Room, which serves modern British food in a grand but comfortable brasserie-style setting. We have six plump, juicy Scottish oysters (£16.25 [Dh91]) and half a rich, buttery lobster (£20 [Dh113]) with chips (£4 [Dh23]) and endive-and-blue-cheese salad (£5 [Dh28]). I have breakfast at the same place, and there’s an impressive menu – I like the goat’s curd with pomegranate, honey and pine nuts (£7.50 [Dh42]). There’s also a lovely attached deli where you can pick up a coffee and sandwich if you don’t have time for breakfast.
Loved
The sense of history.
Hated
The disappearing butler.
The verdict
The less than obvious location is offset by the building’s grandeur. If you’re looking for somewhere for a special occasion, or a getaway within London, this is it. This hotel has such a presence that you can’t fail to go out into the day with confidence.
The bottom line
Double rooms at the Rosewood London cost from £350 (Dh1,969) per night, including taxes.
rbehan@thenational.ae
