The welcome
After navigating Al Barsha’s tricky side roads, the towering new Novotel’s pull-in is rather teensy, causing minor traffic chaos if more than three or four cars arrive in unison. But the valets are cheery and willing to help with even the smallest luggage. And, after a short wait (it’s a busy Thursday evening when we arrive), check-in is straightforward. The lobby is as impressive as four-star hotels get, dominated by an amber chandelier.
The neighbourhood
This corner of Al Barsha has a lot going for it, despite its dusty, half-built feel. Access to Sheikh Zayed Road is convenient, the Sharaf DG Metro station is walking distance, Mall of the Emirates is a two-minute drive and there’s a burgeoning nightlife, with hip club nights in the vicinity. You won’t feel like you’re in a luxury cocoon, but it’s all the better for that.
The room
Our executive double room is on the 23rd floor. The bathroom has everything you could possibly need (including a walk-in rain shower, a bidet and a bath), with likeable red-and-white mosaic detailing. The bedroom is embellished by a cute, Ikea-esque take on a chaise longue, a writing desk/chair, a Nespresso machine and an iPod dock.
The scene
The views contrast depending where you’re located: the relaxing Deck Se7en pool bar overlooks the Burj Al Arab, while our sky-scraping room gives panoramic views of Atlantis, The Palm and (from up here) the Matchbox-car bustle of Sheikh Zayed Road. Our table for breakfast at the all-day dining restaurant 365 on the mezzanine gazes across slightly less glamorous surrounds: a building site. On the ground floor, the Bubbles cocktail bar and Java coffee shop give less lofty vantage points.
The service
Variable. One personable restaurant maître d’ goes well beyond the call of duty; another tries to charge us for an extra breakfast and, frankly, couldn’t be less helpful – the exchange is eventually resolved by a manager. The barman at Deck Se7en is extremely jovial, though, and the staff are otherwise unobtrusive.
The food
If there’s a better, more unique restaurant in Al Barsha than Cravin’ Cajun, we’d like to hear about it. As the name betrays, its speciality is Cajun – wholesome, hearty and gloriously unhealthy dishes of classic comfort food straight outta Louisiana. The Cajun fried shrimp in buttermilk batter (Dh55) and the Cajun southern fried chicken and waffles (Dh60) leave us stuffed. The menu at Deck Se7en, meanwhile, didn’t quite live up to its Jamaican-leaning billing – the jerk chicken burger needed more tang at Dh50 – but was enjoyable nonetheless. The crispy chicken mini tacos were misleadingly generously portioned and great value for Dh30.
Loved
Cravin’ Cajun and Deck Se7en. Oh and sneaking into the deserted kids’ play area after breakfast for a delightfully childish mess-around on the big-screen Nintendo Wii and Xbox Kinect.
Hated
The aforementioned breakfast-charge misunderstanding left a bad metaphorical taste, but that was more than cancelled out by our actual taste of the hotel’s cuisine.
The verdict
The Novotel’s dining options combine to make it a worthwhile trip, even for those not stopping over. And you can’t say that about many competitors in Al Barsha.
The bottom line
Doubles start from Dh600 per night, including taxes and Wi-Fi, plus Dh15 tourism tax per room, per night. Breakfast on supplement. A special online summer promotional rate is currently available from Dh350 per night, including breakfast. Novotel Dubai Al Barsha, opposite Sharaf DG Metro station, Sheikh Zayed Road, Al Barsha, Dubai (www.novotel.com; 04 304 9000).
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