Following in the steps of London, Paris and Milan, which already have established men’s weeks, New York Fashion Week: Men’s SS16 began on Monday in Skylight Clarkson Square.
Hosted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, this is the first time that menswear has been shown in New York since its previously under-supported system fell apart in 2001.
In giving the boys their own dedicated event, the industry is acknowledging a new generation of male shoppers, prepared and willing to spend big money on designer clothes. Previously treated as an afterthought in New York, men’s shows were muddled in with the more high profile women’s fashion weeks, in February and September.
Aside from being slightly patronising, it was ill conceived, with store buyers forced to choose men’s clothes in the wrong season. With the Europeans already having established men’s fashion weeks in February and June, buyers were travelling to, and spending their budgets at, these shows. New York, in comparison, showed menswear three months later at the women’s shows, when the budgets were often already spent.
For American designers to get a toe-hold in the menswear market, many had to show in Europe, adding extra cost to an already expensive event. This new, dedicated bi-annual platform, with 49 separate presentations scheduled over four days, marks a new confidence and belief in the American fashion industry.
Household names such as Tommy Hilfiger and Polo Ralph Lauren will be there, but equally important for a new event are the smaller, emerging labels, which are also being given a platform.
As is typical of opening day at any fashion week, day one was about the up-and-coming names, with two local designers being among the five to present.
New York-based Boyswear offered a collection – bizarrely named The Manson Family Singers – featuring bright, boxy-cut print shirts over wide-legged cropped trousers. Finished with hair slicked into centre partings, it felt fresh and exciting, and very non-commercial. This last element is important, as it feels like a welcome step away from the obvious, money-driven approach of a normal New York Fashion Week.
Also showing was another NYC-based brand, Cadet, which has made a name with previous military-inspired collections, along with being shortlisted for the 2015/2016 International Woolmark Prize.
Bigger names included Thom Browne, Rag & Bone and Calvin Klein.
Browne gave us another round of impeccable tailoring – embracing neat office wear with sharp grey suits topping slim-cut cropped trousers. In contrast, Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville opted for the extreme sport of parkour, with relaxed, sporty clothes, built for movement. Michael Kors will also be presenting its collection.
Tomorrow’s finale will begin with Coach, followed by Perry Ellis. However, the biggest news of the week has to be the decision by John Varvatos to return to New York. Having always shown his women’s collections in Paris, the move to bring his menswear back to New York can be seen as a powerful validation of a fledgling event.
smaisey@thenational.ae
