“She walks in her abaya like the night unfolding at ease.”
The line, often cited in Gulf Nabati verse, captures the poetic weight carried by our Arabic word of the week – abaya, meaning cloak. It denotes more than a garment. It suggests movement, modesty and identity.
Traditionally, the abaya is a loose, flowing outer cloak worn over everyday clothing, most commonly in black and associated with the Arabian Peninsula. Its origins lie in practicality as much as culture. Among Bedouin communities, the cloak offered protection from the sun and desert winds, while its ample cut allowed ease of movement. Over time, it became codified as a marker of modest dress, particularly for women, though historically men also wore similar outer cloaks.
In the UAE and across the Gulf, the abaya has evolved into a form that is both conservative and expressive. While the silhouette remains restrained, contemporary designs incorporate embroidery, pleating and subtle colour variations. Emirati designers have increasingly reimagined the garment, positioning it within global fashion conversations without detaching it from its cultural roots.
That evolution is now extending into sustainability. As the UAE sharpens its environmental ambitions, businesses are rethinking how traditional garments are produced. One such effort is led by Palestinian entrepreneur Zein Altawil, founder of Yello, who developed biodegradable abayas using natural, hypoallergenic and durable fabrics. Her approach responds to a little-discussed reality that producing a single abaya can generate up to 12kg of carbon dioxide emissions.
The word itself retains its poetic resonance. It is often invoked as a symbol of dignity, concealment and quiet strength. In the aforementioned verse, the abaya becomes synonymous with night, suggesting elegance and enigma, but also continuity. The imagery reflects a broader tradition in Arabic poetry, where clothing represents emotional and social values.
In music, too, the abaya surfaces as a cultural signifier. References to the black cloak in Gulf and Arab songs often evoke nostalgia or admiration, grounding lyrics in a recognisable social landscape. Saudi singer Mohammed Abdu frequently draws on such imagery, placing the garment within a wider cultural lexicon.
Yet the abaya’s meaning is not fixed. For some, it remains a religious or cultural obligation. For others, it is a personal choice, a fashion statement, or a canvas for experimentation. Increasingly, it is also a site of innovation.
