Houla, and how Syria glimpsed the abyss


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DAMASCUS // Violence has been plentiful in Syria over the past 15 months, the early trickle of blood swelling to a deluge as killing became something that happens every day as surely as the sun rises and sets.

But against this gruesome backdrop of carnage, horror and grief, the massacre in Houla on May 25 still stands out. It now has a special resonance: an atrocity even among atrocities.

At least 108 people, mostly women and young children, were executed by gunshots to the head, butchered by the slash of a knife blade to the throat or cut down by shellfire as they cowered in their homes. Survivors have described how they smeared themselves in the blood of their relatives and played dead as the killers swept through.

"There was before Houla and there is after Houla. Something has changed, we can all feel it," a Syrian friend said in Damascus the other evening. "Things will never be the same again".

Before, he had always been optimistic about the outcome of the revolution-in-progress. He saw the uprising as his country growing up, shaking off a decades-long coma. He would always brush aside the notion his country might go to war with itself, and certainly not slide into a sectarian war.

In post-Houla Syria, that confidence has faded. "There is so much anger and fear, anything is possible," he said.

Another man I speak to fairly regularly, a cheerful supporter of the Syrian president Bashar Al Assad, was quiet and despairing in the massacre's aftermath.

"I thought we would escape the worst of it, but it's coming our way. It's just a question of time," he said.

In the days after Houla, the intensity of protests and anti-regime militancy appears to have increased in Damascus and the city's volatile surrounding suburbs, as if the stakes have markedly risen.

Peaceful snap demonstrations now pop up in the city centre with more frequency. At a protest last week next to the Italian hospital, in the busy Hamra Street market, security forces started shooting, forcing screaming afternoon shoppers to run for safety. The awful sound of gunfire is no longer limited to fringe neighbourhoods.

There was fighting in Midan - not protesters being fired on, but fighting between armed rebels of the Free Syrian Army and government forces. Midan is not some obscure, distant edge of Damascus. It is a district populated by well educated, middle-class families, a few minutes' drive from key security offices, government buildings and the very heart of the Syrian capital.

A shopping mall in the upper-class Maliki neighbourhood - very much home of the ruling elite - was briefly and discreetly closed last week, apparently after three explosive devices were found there.

Traffic along major roads into Damascus is halted on a routine basis, not only by official security-force checkpoints but by blockades thrown up by protesters. The newly laid tarmac on the international highway connecting Damascus to Jordan is already pitted and scarred from burning-tyre and rock barricades, which these days are erected not only at night but in broad daylight.

"The crisis used to be in Homs and a few other bad areas, now it's everywhere," said another man in his twenties whom I meet regularly. He is also a devoted fan of Mr Al Assad, and whenever we talk he has always happily predicted the impending end of the revolt and jauntily promised to lay down his life for country and leader.

"I don't know what the future will be now. It's black. I will be killed or I will have to kill - a war, maybe. I don't know what is happening to my country," he said in a late-night conversation.

There was no exuberance in his voice, no thrill at the prospect of a call to arms. Only a sober recognition that the prospect of actually having to fight was suddenly close at hand.

In their unspeakable, apocalyptic brutality, the events in Houla have served as a blunt reminder to Syrians that there are no depths to which some of their compatriots will not sink to inflict pain and suffering on their countrymen.

It also speaks to the darkest side of Syria's burgeoning fission - an incipient sectarianism that, if manipulated or allowed to grow, could pit the Sunni Muslim masses against the Alawite minority in a bloody war of attrition.

Yet if Houla has given Syria a glimpse into the abyss of an horrific future, it does not seem to have induced those with influence over the course of events to seek a less violent alternative.

Supporters of Mr Al Assad, particularly among the Alawites - those who believe the official explanation that Houla was the work of foreign-backed Islamist extremists - take it as confirmation that hordes of Sunni terrorists are truly rising up to slaughter them.

For those opposed to the regime - those who believe the testimony of Houla residents and activists that a notorious pro-Assad militia was responsible - it reinforces their view that they are facing a merciless, amoral enemy who will stop at nothing to cling to power and privilege.

Instead, what before Houla was already the slim prospect of a political settlement now appears more unlikely than ever, swamped by the logic that, for either side, compromise would mean subjection or, worse, annihilation by a foe capable of immeasurable cruelty. It is the logic of war.

Wars probably don't ever start with a single incident. They instead result from a steady accumulation of events. But there comes a moment where history judges that the conflict really began, when the point of no return is left behind and the path of war irrevocably set upon.

In Damascus these days it is difficult to shake the ominous feeling that, in Syria's case, historians might look back and mark that moment as Friday, May 25, in Houla.

MATCH INFO

Qalandars 109-3 (10ovs)

Salt 30, Malan 24, Trego 23, Jayasuriya 2-14

Bangla Tigers (9.4ovs)

Fletcher 52, Rossouw 31

Bangla Tigers win by six wickets

Essentials

The flights
Whether you trek after mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Uganda or the Congo, the most convenient international airport is in Rwanda’s capital city, Kigali. There are direct flights from Dubai a couple of days a week with RwandAir. Otherwise, an indirect route is available via Nairobi with Kenya Airways. Flydubai flies to Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, via Entebbe in Uganda. Expect to pay from US$350 (Dh1,286) return, including taxes.
The tours
Superb ape-watching tours that take in all three gorilla countries mentioned above are run by Natural World Safaris. In September, the company will be operating a unique Ugandan ape safari guided by well-known primatologist Ben Garrod.
In the Democratic Republic of Congo, local operator Kivu Travel can organise pretty much any kind of safari throughout the Virunga National Park and elsewhere in eastern Congo.

How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE

When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.

THE BIO

Born: Mukalla, Yemen, 1979

Education: UAE University, Al Ain

Family: Married with two daughters: Asayel, 7, and Sara, 6

Favourite piece of music: Horse Dance by Naseer Shamma

Favourite book: Science and geology

Favourite place to travel to: Washington DC

Best advice you’ve ever been given: If you have a dream, you have to believe it, then you will see it.

RESULT

Bayer Leverkusen 2 Bayern Munich 4
Leverkusen:
 Alario (9'), Wirtz (89')
Bayern: Coman (27'), Goretzka (42'), Gnabry (45'), Lewandowski (66')

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While you're here
The biog

Hometown: Birchgrove, Sydney Australia
Age: 59
Favourite TV series: Outlander Netflix series
Favourite place in the UAE: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque / desert / Louvre Abu Dhabi
Favourite book: Father of our Nation: Collected Quotes of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan
Thing you will miss most about the UAE: My friends and family, Formula 1, having Friday's off, desert adventures, and Arabic culture and people
 

The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre turbo

Power: 181hp

Torque: 230Nm

Transmission: 6-speed automatic

Starting price: Dh79,000

On sale: Now

Play-off fixtures

Two-legged ties to be played November 9-11 and November 12-14

 

  • Northern Ireland v Switzerland
  • Croatia v Greece
  • Denmark v Ireland
  • Sweden v Italy
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What drives subscription retailing?

Once the domain of newspaper home deliveries, subscription model retailing has combined with e-commerce to permeate myriad products and services.

The concept has grown tremendously around the world and is forecast to thrive further, according to UnivDatos Market Insights’ report on recent and predicted trends in the sector.

The global subscription e-commerce market was valued at $13.2 billion (Dh48.5bn) in 2018. It is forecast to touch $478.2bn in 2025, and include the entertainment, fitness, food, cosmetics, baby care and fashion sectors.

The report says subscription-based services currently constitute “a small trend within e-commerce”. The US hosts almost 70 per cent of recurring plan firms, including leaders Dollar Shave Club, Hello Fresh and Netflix. Walmart and Sephora are among longer established retailers entering the space.

UnivDatos cites younger and affluent urbanites as prime subscription targets, with women currently the largest share of end-users.

That’s expected to remain unchanged until 2025, when women will represent a $246.6bn market share, owing to increasing numbers of start-ups targeting women.

Personal care and beauty occupy the largest chunk of the worldwide subscription e-commerce market, with changing lifestyles, work schedules, customisation and convenience among the chief future drivers.