KABUL // In an area of town where warlords drive their SUVs at high speed past street children, postcards are sold that show the Afghan capital as it once was.
The roads were clean and well paved, buildings stood firm and the river was full of water instead of rubbish. Decades later, it could not be more different.
"There is lots of traffic, lots of rubbish and everything is very expensive. But if the people go back to the provinces what can they do when there are no jobs for them?" said Karim Khan, selling vegetables from a street stall. "I wake up at 4am, pray, then come here to start work at 5am. Until 9pm I am working and I make just [Dh7.2]."
Kabul, a city designed for one million people, is now home to around five times that number. Conflict, poverty and a fleeting sense of optimism have caused the population to boom in recent years and the impact has been overwhelming.
From the provision of basic services like housing and electricity to social problems such as unemployment and crime, Kabul is unable to cope.
Sher Gul escaped Afghanistan during the Soviet occupation, as Kabul slowly descended into the endless war that would ultimately tear it apart. He went to Pakistan and earned a living digging wells, but returned in 2003 believing that his young family had a future here.
"We thought the government would give us a house or land and at the beginning there were lots of jobs available," he said. "Right now there is nothing."
Today, Mr Gul survives by collecting rubbish. The paper he finds is burnt in the winter to keep him and his nine children warm. He sells the empty plastic bottles and drink cans he picks up, usually with the help of six of his sons.
Breathing life back into Kabul was never going to be easy, the city having been razed to the ground by fighting in the early to mid-1990s and then decimated by international isolation under the Taliban,
But according to residents and even the deputy mayor, the capital is in a "crisis situation" largely because of the government's own failures.
Throughout the city there are obvious examples of mistakes that have been made, often at the expense of those who can hardly feed themselves. In the district of Shirpur, gaudy mansions have been built where traditional mud-brick homes once stood.
The old residents were kicked out for the development to take place and warlords - some of whom are involved in the drugs trade - now live there, alongside foreign contractors.
Kabul Municipality, which is meant to be responsible for the city, acknowledges it had no say in the process. Only a few of the original houses remain and they might not be there for long.
Sayed Mahboob has been unemployed for seven years and he is under increasing pressure to leave.
"All these people have built castles and now they are telling us we should destroy our homes because they make the area look bad," he said. "Why? Are we not Afghans?"
Small tent villages have appeared in other parts of Kabul. Some contain families displaced by fighting in the south and east, others are full of the unemployed who left the countryside and came here in search of work.
Yet this is far from the promised land. There is still no regular electricity supply and many homes do not have running water. Security is also deteriorating, with kidnappings and robberies even more of a problem than the ever-present threat of insurgent violence.
Huge concrete blast walls surround government buildings and military compounds. Whole streets are blocked off by barriers, causing long traffic jams in the city and infuriating the general public.
The street leading to Mehrabuddin Haidari's printing shop has been closed since a suicide bomber attacked the Indian Embassy earlier this summer. With the embassy next door and the ministry of interior nearby, this is one of Kabul's many no-go zones.
"Before the explosion our business was very good, now it's down to zero because nobody can come here in their cars," he said.
"It's not because of our security, it's just because of the minister's. They don't care about us. How can they keep security when I don't even feel safe in my house?"
In the centre of the city, where the rubbish, congestion and growing presence of heavily armed police are all clearly visible, the deputy mayor is willing to admit that people are right to feel angry at the situation.
"I think we could have done much more than we have in the last six years, but at the same time some problems are out of our control," said Wahabuddin Sadaat.
He said the sudden population boom has created a huge burden on infrastructure, leading to mass unemployment, housing shortages and high crime rates.
However, a lack of co-ordination among different government bodies means key issues are still not being tackled as effectively as they should be. "Kabul Municipality has the key to the city, but whether that key is working or not working is another question," Mr Sadaat said.
csands@thenational.ae
Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
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DMZ facts
- The DMZ was created as a buffer after the 1950-53 Korean War.
- It runs 248 kilometers across the Korean Peninsula and is 4km wide.
- The zone is jointly overseen by the US-led United Nations Command and North Korea.
- It is littered with an estimated 2 million mines, tank traps, razor wire fences and guard posts.
- Donald Trump and Kim Jong-Un met at a building in Panmunjom, where an armistice was signed to stop the Korean War.
- Panmunjom is 52km north of the Korean capital Seoul and 147km south of Pyongyang, North Korea’s capital.
- Former US president Bill Clinton visited Panmunjom in 1993, while Ronald Reagan visited the DMZ in 1983, George W. Bush in 2002 and Barack Obama visited a nearby military camp in 2012.
- Mr Trump planned to visit in November 2017, but heavy fog that prevented his helicopter from landing.
The biog
Age: 32
Qualifications: Diploma in engineering from TSI Technical Institute, bachelor’s degree in accounting from Dubai’s Al Ghurair University, master’s degree in human resources from Abu Dhabi University, currently third years PHD in strategy of human resources.
Favourite mountain range: The Himalayas
Favourite experience: Two months trekking in Alaska
Springsteen: Deliver Me from Nowhere
Director: Scott Cooper
Starring: Jeremy Allen White, Odessa Young, Jeremy Strong
Rating: 4/5
THE BIO: Martin Van Almsick
Hometown: Cologne, Germany
Family: Wife Hanan Ahmed and their three children, Marrah (23), Tibijan (19), Amon (13)
Favourite dessert: Umm Ali with dark camel milk chocolate flakes
Favourite hobby: Football
Breakfast routine: a tall glass of camel milk
UAE jiu-jitsu squad
Men: Hamad Nawad and Khalid Al Balushi (56kg), Omar Al Fadhli and Saeed Al Mazroui (62kg), Taleb Al Kirbi and Humaid Al Kaabi (69kg), Mohammed Al Qubaisi and Saud Al Hammadi (70kg), Khalfan Belhol and Mohammad Haitham Radhi (85kg), Faisal Al Ketbi and Zayed Al Kaabi (94kg)
Women: Wadima Al Yafei and Mahra Al Hanaei (49kg), Bashayer Al Matrooshi and Hessa Al Shamsi (62kg)
Infiniti QX80 specs
Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6
Power: 450hp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000
Available: Now
The National in Davos
We are bringing you the inside story from the World Economic Forum's Annual Meeting in Davos, a gathering of hundreds of world leaders, top executives and billionaires.
MATCH INFO
Tottenham Hotspur 3 (Son 1', Kane 8' & 16') West Ham United 3 (Balbuena 82', Sanchez og 85', Lanzini 90' 4)
Man of the match Harry Kane
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Benefits of first-time home buyers' scheme
- Priority access to new homes from participating developers
- Discounts on sales price of off-plan units
- Flexible payment plans from developers
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Wayne Rooney's career
Everton (2002-2004)
- Appearances: 48
- Goals: 17
Manchester United (2004-2017)
- Appearances: 496
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England (2003-)
- Appearances: 119
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Healthy tips to remember
Here, Dr Mohamed El Abiary, paediatric consultant at Al Zahra Hospital Dubai, shares some advice for parents whose children are fasting during the holy month of Ramadan:
Gradual fasting and golden points - For children under the age of 10, follow a step-by-step approach to fasting and don't push them beyond their limits. Start with a few hours fasting a day and increase it to a half fast and full fast when the child is ready. Every individual's ability varies as per the age and personal readiness. You could introduce a points system that awards the child and offers them encouragement when they make progress with the amount of hours they fast
Why fast? - Explain to your child why they are fasting. By shedding light on the importance of abstaining from food and drink, children may feel more encouraged to give it there all during the observance period. It is also a good opportunity to teach children about controlling urges, doing good for others and instilling healthy food habits
Sleep and suhoor - A child needs adequate sleep every night - at least eight hours. Make sure to set a routine early bedtime so he/she has sufficient time to wake up for suhoor, which is an essential meal at the beginning of the day
Good diet - Nutritious food is crucial to ensuring a healthy Ramadan for children. They must refrain from eating too much junk food as well as canned goods and snacks and drinks high in sugar. Foods that are rich in nutrients, vitamins and proteins, like fruits, fresh meats and vegetables, make for a good balanced diet
Company%20Profile
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Celta Vigo 2
Castro (45'), Aspas (82')
Barcelona 2
Dembele (36'), Alcacer (64')
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Terror attacks in Paris, November 13, 2015
- At 9.16pm, three suicide attackers killed one person outside the Atade de France during a foootball match between France and Germany
- At 9.25pm, three attackers opened fire on restaurants and cafes over 20 minutes, killing 39 people
- Shortly after 9.40pm, three other attackers launched a three-hour raid on the Bataclan, in which 1,500 people had gathered to watch a rock concert. In total, 90 people were killed
- Salah Abdeslam, the only survivor of the terrorists, did not directly participate in the attacks, thought to be due to a technical glitch in his suicide vest
- He fled to Belgium and was involved in attacks on Brussels in March 2016. He is serving a life sentence in France
Know before you go
- Jebel Akhdar is a two-hour drive from Muscat airport or a six-hour drive from Dubai. It’s impossible to visit by car unless you have a 4x4. Phone ahead to the hotel to arrange a transfer.
- If you’re driving, make sure your insurance covers Oman.
- By air: Budget airlines Air Arabia, Flydubai and SalamAir offer direct routes to Muscat from the UAE.
- Tourists from the Emirates (UAE nationals not included) must apply for an Omani visa online before arrival at evisa.rop.gov.om. The process typically takes several days.
- Flash floods are probable due to the terrain and a lack of drainage. Always check the weather before venturing into any canyons or other remote areas and identify a plan of escape that includes high ground, shelter and parking where your car won’t be overtaken by sudden downpours.
Getting there
The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly to Johannesburg or Cape Town daily. Flights cost from about Dh3,325, with a flying time of 8hours and 15 minutes. From there, fly South African Airlines or Air Namibia to Namibia’s Windhoek Hosea Kutako International Airport, for about Dh850. Flying time is 2 hours.
The stay
Wilderness Little Kulala offers stays from £460 (Dh2,135) per person, per night. It is one of seven Wilderness Safari lodges in Namibia; www.wilderness-safaris.com.
Skeleton Coast Safaris’ four-day adventure involves joining a very small group in a private plane, flying to some of the remotest areas in the world, with each night spent at a different camp. It costs from US$8,335.30 (Dh30,611); www.skeletoncoastsafaris.com
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
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Tuesday results:
- Singapore bt Malaysia by 29 runs
- UAE bt Oman by 13 runs
- Hong Kong bt Nepal by 3 wickets
Final:
Thursday, UAE v Hong Kong
SPECS
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