• El Capitan is the southernmost point of the Guadalupe Mountains. At 2,464 metres above sea level, El Capitan is the eighth-highest peak in Texas and about an hour north from Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Laurence Parent
    El Capitan is the southernmost point of the Guadalupe Mountains. At 2,464 metres above sea level, El Capitan is the eighth-highest peak in Texas and about an hour north from Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Laurence Parent
  • Located at the crossroads of the Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe and Big Bend National Parks, Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Located at the crossroads of the Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe and Big Bend National Parks, Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • The Hotel El Capitan is a historic hotel located in the Van Horn city centre and the jewel of the small town. Photo: Texas Historical Commission
    The Hotel El Capitan is a historic hotel located in the Van Horn city centre and the jewel of the small town. Photo: Texas Historical Commission
  • The entrance to the historic Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
    The entrance to the historic Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Architect Henry Charles Trost designed buildings all across Texas, Arizona and New Mexico. This is the Hotel El Capitan interior garden. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Architect Henry Charles Trost designed buildings all across Texas, Arizona and New Mexico. This is the Hotel El Capitan interior garden. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Hotel El Capitan lobby. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Hotel El Capitan lobby. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Your four-legged friends are welcome at the Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Your four-legged friends are welcome at the Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Hotel El Capitan hallway. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Hotel El Capitan hallway. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Hotel El Capitan is one of the most popular places to stay in west Texas. Photo: Thomas Millard
    Hotel El Capitan is one of the most popular places to stay in west Texas. Photo: Thomas Millard
  • Van Horn, Texas, is the last stop before the turnoff to Marfa, a tiny artist town put on the map after James Dean starred in 'Giant', which was filmed there in 1956. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Van Horn, Texas, is the last stop before the turnoff to Marfa, a tiny artist town put on the map after James Dean starred in 'Giant', which was filmed there in 1956. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Located in Van Horn, Texas, Chuy’s boasts an illustrious list of celebrity diners including Harrison Ford, Tom Hanks, the man in black Johnny Cash, singer Selena, country legend Conway Twitty and John Madden. Photo: Thomas Hawk
    Located in Van Horn, Texas, Chuy’s boasts an illustrious list of celebrity diners including Harrison Ford, Tom Hanks, the man in black Johnny Cash, singer Selena, country legend Conway Twitty and John Madden. Photo: Thomas Hawk
  • Put Chuy's Tex Mex restaurant on your must-do list when visiting Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Chuy's Facebook
    Put Chuy's Tex Mex restaurant on your must-do list when visiting Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Chuy's Facebook
  • Vintage sign lovers are sure to enjoy Van Horn, Texas, for its Instragramable moments. Photo: Thomas Hawk
    Vintage sign lovers are sure to enjoy Van Horn, Texas, for its Instragramable moments. Photo: Thomas Hawk
  • Many of Van Horn's closed-up shops and businesses give it a ghost town feel. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Many of Van Horn's closed-up shops and businesses give it a ghost town feel. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Since Jeff Bezos and Blue Origin came to Van Horn, Texas, there are few single-family homes for sale. Many businesses, however, remain shuttered. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Since Jeff Bezos and Blue Origin came to Van Horn, Texas, there are few single-family homes for sale. Many businesses, however, remain shuttered. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Van Horn, Texas, was on the radars of hikers and hipsters alike well before Jeff Bezos came to town. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Van Horn, Texas, was on the radars of hikers and hipsters alike well before Jeff Bezos came to town. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Though it was once an oil and cattle town, Van Horn, Texas, relies heavily on tourism to stay afloat. Blue Origin launches are helping the tiny town of 2,000. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Though it was once an oil and cattle town, Van Horn, Texas, relies heavily on tourism to stay afloat. Blue Origin launches are helping the tiny town of 2,000. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Another view of the Van Horn city centre. Photo: Thomas Hawk
    Another view of the Van Horn city centre. Photo: Thomas Hawk
  • Hotel El Capitan is not the only game in town. There's also a tidy Motel 6. Photo: Motel 6
    Hotel El Capitan is not the only game in town. There's also a tidy Motel 6. Photo: Motel 6
  • The Ship on the Desert is an early example of 20th-century modernism and sits at the base of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, an hour north of Van Horn. Photo: National Parks Service
    The Ship on the Desert is an early example of 20th-century modernism and sits at the base of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, an hour north of Van Horn. Photo: National Parks Service
  • Hikers visiting Guadalupe Mountains National Park often take a rest in the shady Grotto, which provides a picturesque setting for a picnic and a rest while hiking in McKittrick Canyon. Photo: National Parks Service
    Hikers visiting Guadalupe Mountains National Park often take a rest in the shady Grotto, which provides a picturesque setting for a picnic and a rest while hiking in McKittrick Canyon. Photo: National Parks Service
  • Travellers visiting Guadalupe Mountain National Park often stop in Van Horn for a respite at the historic El Capitan Hotel. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Travellers visiting Guadalupe Mountain National Park often stop in Van Horn for a respite at the historic El Capitan Hotel. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Vintage neon sign lovers will appreciate the old signage throughout the tiny town of Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Vintage neon sign lovers will appreciate the old signage throughout the tiny town of Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Lindsey's Cafe dishes out tasty Mexican food in central Van Horn, Texas. Facebook
    Lindsey's Cafe dishes out tasty Mexican food in central Van Horn, Texas. Facebook
  • A full moon rises over the Guadalupe Mountains as seen from downtown Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Steve Lange
    A full moon rises over the Guadalupe Mountains as seen from downtown Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Steve Lange
  • Brewer's blackbirds are protected in the US under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. These birds were found alighting in Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Silvi
    Brewer's blackbirds are protected in the US under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. These birds were found alighting in Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Silvi

Life in Van Horn, the Texan town that is Jeff Bezos’s gateway to the stars


Holly Aguirre
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Located south of the middle of nowhere, Van Horn, Texas, appears not to have much to offer the average traveller — aside from its being the site of one of the world's premier space flight companies.

Founded in 2000, Blue Origin is Amazon founder Jeff Bezos's billion-dollar private space flight firm that has successfully launched three manned flights, with plans for more.

  • Mural displaying Jeff Bezos and his brother Mark Bezos, in Van Horn, Texas, where Blue Origin rocket launches take place. Reuters
    Mural displaying Jeff Bezos and his brother Mark Bezos, in Van Horn, Texas, where Blue Origin rocket launches take place. Reuters
  • Though Texas has mountain ranges throughout the state, the 10 freeway and roads in and out of Van Horn are known for its wide expanses, perfect for launching rockets. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Though Texas has mountain ranges throughout the state, the 10 freeway and roads in and out of Van Horn are known for its wide expanses, perfect for launching rockets. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Blue Origin's founder Jeff Bezos visited Van Horn, Texas many times before deciding it was the perfect place to launch his rockets. Photo: Blue Origin
    Blue Origin's founder Jeff Bezos visited Van Horn, Texas many times before deciding it was the perfect place to launch his rockets. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket launch outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket launch outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket launch outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket launch outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Blue Origin's founder Jeff Bezos celebrates his first successful landing in the desert outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    Blue Origin's founder Jeff Bezos celebrates his first successful landing in the desert outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket landing on the desert terrain outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket landing on the desert terrain outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Members on Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket experience the true effects of weightlessness before landing outside Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    Members on Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket experience the true effects of weightlessness before landing outside Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Blue Origin's New Shepard team members pose after touching down in the desert outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    Blue Origin's New Shepard team members pose after touching down in the desert outside of Van Horn, Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
  • Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket launches carrying passengers Jeff Bezos, founder of Amazon and space tourism company Blue Origin, brother Mark Bezos, Oliver Daemen and Wally Funk, from its spaceport near Van Horn, Texas on July 20, 2021. AP
    Blue Origin's New Shepard rocket launches carrying passengers Jeff Bezos, founder of Amazon and space tourism company Blue Origin, brother Mark Bezos, Oliver Daemen and Wally Funk, from its spaceport near Van Horn, Texas on July 20, 2021. AP
  • William Shatner, center, speaks as Audrey Powers, left, and Chris Boshuizen appear during a press opportunity at the Blue Origin spaceport near Van Horn, Texas, on October 13, 2021. The "Star Trek" actor and the three fellow passengers soared to an altitude of 107 kilometres over the West Texas desert near Van Horn in a fully automated capsule, in a flight that lasted just over 10 minutes. AP
    William Shatner, center, speaks as Audrey Powers, left, and Chris Boshuizen appear during a press opportunity at the Blue Origin spaceport near Van Horn, Texas, on October 13, 2021. The "Star Trek" actor and the three fellow passengers soared to an altitude of 107 kilometres over the West Texas desert near Van Horn in a fully automated capsule, in a flight that lasted just over 10 minutes. AP
  • Parachutes carrying Blue Origin's capsule with passengers William Shatner, Chris Boshuizen, Audrey Powers and Glen de Vries going down to the spaceport near Van Horn, Texas, last October. AP
    Parachutes carrying Blue Origin's capsule with passengers William Shatner, Chris Boshuizen, Audrey Powers and Glen de Vries going down to the spaceport near Van Horn, Texas, last October. AP
  • "Good Morning America" host and former NFL star Michael Strahan laughs with Laura Shepard Churchley, daughter of astronaut Alan Shepard, during a media availability on the landing pad after they flew into space aboard Blue Origin’s New Shepard on December 11, 2021 near Van Horn, Texas. Getty Images / AFP
    "Good Morning America" host and former NFL star Michael Strahan laughs with Laura Shepard Churchley, daughter of astronaut Alan Shepard, during a media availability on the landing pad after they flew into space aboard Blue Origin’s New Shepard on December 11, 2021 near Van Horn, Texas. Getty Images / AFP
  • Onlookers watch as Blue Origin’s New Shepard flies toward space carrying "Good Morning America" host Michael Strahan, Laura Shepard Churchley, daughter of astronaut Alan Shepard, and four other civilians on December 11, 2021 near Van Horn, Texas. Getty Images / AFP
    Onlookers watch as Blue Origin’s New Shepard flies toward space carrying "Good Morning America" host Michael Strahan, Laura Shepard Churchley, daughter of astronaut Alan Shepard, and four other civilians on December 11, 2021 near Van Horn, Texas. Getty Images / AFP
  • This framegrab obtained from Blue Origin, shows the December team landing in West Texas near Van Horn. AFP PHOTO / Blue Origin
    This framegrab obtained from Blue Origin, shows the December team landing in West Texas near Van Horn. AFP PHOTO / Blue Origin
  • A Blue Origin New Shepard rocket returns to Earth at the company's West Texas headquarters near Van Horn. The Guadalupe Mountain Range can be seen in the foreground. AFP
    A Blue Origin New Shepard rocket returns to Earth at the company's West Texas headquarters near Van Horn. The Guadalupe Mountain Range can be seen in the foreground. AFP
  • Spectators are now flocking to Van Horn, Texas to watch Blue Origin's rocket launches. Reuters
    Spectators are now flocking to Van Horn, Texas to watch Blue Origin's rocket launches. Reuters
  • A sign at the entrance to space company Blue Origin. Reuters
    A sign at the entrance to space company Blue Origin. Reuters
  • El Capitan is the southern-most point of the Guadalupe Mountains. At 2,464 metres above sea level, El Capitan is the eighth highest peak in Texas and about an hour north from Van Horn, Texas. Photo by Laurence Parent
    El Capitan is the southern-most point of the Guadalupe Mountains. At 2,464 metres above sea level, El Capitan is the eighth highest peak in Texas and about an hour north from Van Horn, Texas. Photo by Laurence Parent
  • The Hotel El Capitan is a historic hotel located in the center of downtown Van Horn, Texas and the jewel of the small town. Photo: Texas Historical Commission
    The Hotel El Capitan is a historic hotel located in the center of downtown Van Horn, Texas and the jewel of the small town. Photo: Texas Historical Commission
  • Located at the crossroads of the Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe and Big Bend National Parks, Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Located at the crossroads of the Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe and Big Bend National Parks, Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Travellers visiting the Guadalupe Mountain National Park often stop in Van Horn, Texas for a respite at the historic El Capitan Hotel. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Travellers visiting the Guadalupe Mountain National Park often stop in Van Horn, Texas for a respite at the historic El Capitan Hotel. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Architect Henry Charles Trost designed buildings all across Texas, Arizona and New Mexico. This is the Hotel El Capitan interior garden. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Architect Henry Charles Trost designed buildings all across Texas, Arizona and New Mexico. This is the Hotel El Capitan interior garden. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Hotel El Capitan lobby. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Hotel El Capitan lobby. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Hotel El Capitan hallway. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Hotel El Capitan hallway. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Some of the rooms at the Hotel El Capitan overlook the courtyard. Hotel El Capitan
    Some of the rooms at the Hotel El Capitan overlook the courtyard. Hotel El Capitan
  • Your four-legged friends are welcome at the Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Your four-legged friends are welcome at the Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • The entrance to the historic Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
    The entrance to the historic Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn, Texas. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • postcard
    postcard
  • An aerial view shows the logo of the Van Horn Eagles football team on a water tower in Van Horn, Texas where- Blue Origin held several rocket launches last year. AFP
    An aerial view shows the logo of the Van Horn Eagles football team on a water tower in Van Horn, Texas where- Blue Origin held several rocket launches last year. AFP
  • Cody Colchado and Lupe Colchado eat lunch at the Chuy's Mexican restaurant before Jeff Bezos’ scheduled launch in his Blue Origin rocket from a launchpad in West Texas on July 19, 2021 in Van Horn, Texas. Getty Images / AFP
    Cody Colchado and Lupe Colchado eat lunch at the Chuy's Mexican restaurant before Jeff Bezos’ scheduled launch in his Blue Origin rocket from a launchpad in West Texas on July 19, 2021 in Van Horn, Texas. Getty Images / AFP
  • Hikers visiting the Guadalupe Mountains National Park often take a rest in the shady Grotto, which provides a picturesque setting for a picnic and a rest while hiking in McKittrick Canyon. Photo by National Parks Service
    Hikers visiting the Guadalupe Mountains National Park often take a rest in the shady Grotto, which provides a picturesque setting for a picnic and a rest while hiking in McKittrick Canyon. Photo by National Parks Service
  • The Ship on the Desert is an early example of 20th-century modernism, distinct for West Texas and sits at the base of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, an hour north of Van Horn, Texas. Photo by National Parks Service
    The Ship on the Desert is an early example of 20th-century modernism, distinct for West Texas and sits at the base of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, an hour north of Van Horn, Texas. Photo by National Parks Service
  • Van Horn, Texas is the last stop before the turnoff to Marfa, a tiny artist town put on the map after James Dean starred in "Giant", which was filmed there in 1956. Holly Aguirre / The National
    Van Horn, Texas is the last stop before the turnoff to Marfa, a tiny artist town put on the map after James Dean starred in "Giant", which was filmed there in 1956. Holly Aguirre / The National
  • Longfellow Ranch is a working cattle ranch and includes the Pinon gas field which offers five-star room and dining facilities for corporate events and guests. Photo: RanchWork
    Longfellow Ranch is a working cattle ranch and includes the Pinon gas field which offers five-star room and dining facilities for corporate events and guests. Photo: RanchWork
  • Jeff Bezos bought Longfellow Ranch in 2005, according to NBC News, which is the same time the billionaire bought 66.773 hectares in West Texas. Photo: RanchWork
    Jeff Bezos bought Longfellow Ranch in 2005, according to NBC News, which is the same time the billionaire bought 66.773 hectares in West Texas. Photo: RanchWork
  • NBC News reported that Jeff Bezos bought the Longfellow Ranch in 2005, which was the same year he bought 66,773 hectares in same area. Photo: RanchWork
    NBC News reported that Jeff Bezos bought the Longfellow Ranch in 2005, which was the same year he bought 66,773 hectares in same area. Photo: RanchWork
  • The Blue Origin launch site and facility are located near Van Horn in West Texas. Photo: Blue Origin
    The Blue Origin launch site and facility are located near Van Horn in West Texas. Photo: Blue Origin

And Mr Bezos found the perfect home for his company in the mid-2000s: over 66,000 hectares of flat, dry land — perfect for launching rockets — situated about 40 kilometres from Van Horn.

Van Horn's closest major cities are El Paso, two hours to the west, and Fort Stockton, two hours to the east. Most I-10 travellers whizz right past Van Horn or use it as a pit stop before rolling on towards Tucson or Phoenix in Arizona.

Over the course of last year, however, Van Horn — which relied heavily on tourism even before Blue Origin came along — received a major economic boost as astrophiles flooded the town, eager to witness wealthy rocketeers jetting off to space.

But apart from the rockets' red glare, why would anyone want to visit the quiet town of 2,000 people?

It turns out there's a lot to love about Van Horn, if you know where to look.

Hotel El Capitan is one of the most popular places to stay not only in west Texas, but in the whole state. Photo: Thomas Millard
Hotel El Capitan is one of the most popular places to stay not only in west Texas, but in the whole state. Photo: Thomas Millard

Stay

If you decide to stay the night in Van Horn to catch a glimpse of one of Mr Bezos's rockets leaving the atmosphere, there are several comfortable places to stay, with the historic Hotel El Capitan being the crown jewel.

Built in 1930 by the Gateway Hotel Chain, the pueblo-style building was designed by famed architect Henry Trost.

It has 50 guest rooms and suites, some with private terraces and mini-courtyards with fountains, a handsome lobby with a cosy fireplace, and a gift shop packed with unique, eco-friendly souvenirs, such as locally sourced honey and handmade soaps.

If pitching a tent or parking a caravan is more your speed, Van Horn has numerous options, some with swimming pools, horse corrals and dog parks as well as all the amenities one might expect when sleeping under the stars — trailer hookups, toilets and cleared pitch pads.

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The Clark Hotel Museum is one of the oldest structures in Van Horn and was completed in 1910.

Trapped in time, some of the hotel's rooms have been preserved to show what life was like for the oilmen, ranchers and railway engineers who stayed under its roof.

Other rooms hold artefacts from the town as well as oddities that former guests left behind.

The original bar is still intact and there's even an ore car from the Hazel Silver Mine, once the second-largest producing mine in the state, parked on site for visitors to see.

But the real place to play in Van Horn is outdoors.

Hikers and bikers love the town due to its proximity to Guadalupe Mountains National Park, located less than an hour to the north.

El Capitan is the southernmost point of this epic mountain range, and at 2,464 metres above sea level, it is the eighth-highest peak in Texas. Its challenging terrain and distinct silhouette have made it famous among nature-lovers.

Wildlife is also plentiful in and around the area, with grey foxes, desert cottontails, black-tailed jackrabbits, ringtails and rock squirrels common sights, though rare glimpses of mountain lions and packs of javelinas are also possible.

If a scenic drive is more your thing, Carlsbad Caverns is only an hour and a half away.

You can also schedule a private tour of the popular destination of Red Rocks Ranch, which also features camping.

Jeff Bezos bought Longfellow Ranch in 2005, the same time the billionaire bought 66,773 hectares in West Texas. Photo: RanchWork
Jeff Bezos bought Longfellow Ranch in 2005, the same time the billionaire bought 66,773 hectares in West Texas. Photo: RanchWork

Jeff Bezos's favourite haunts

But what does Jeff Bezos get up to in Van Horn?

Though there were several sightings of the tycoon back in the early 2000s, Mr Bezos and wife Lauren Sanchez are not habitués of Van Horn's Cattle Company restaurant and they have yet to be spotted at Chuy's — though Tom Hanks, Harrison Ford and country legend Johnny Cash all spent time there, chowing down on cheese dip.

Located in the heart of Big Bend Country, Mr Bezos purchased the 141,640-hectare Longfellow Ranch in 2005, NBC News reported.

A working cattle ranch that includes the Pinon gasfield, the ranch features a luxurious lodge, a pool and spa.

It is also close to Blue Origin headquarters, which naturally has its own airstrip.

So, if Mr Bezos ever camps out under those stars he is so desperate to visit, he likely has a little more choice than most of where to lay his sleeping bag.

Director: Laxman Utekar

Cast: Vicky Kaushal, Akshaye Khanna, Diana Penty, Vineet Kumar Singh, Rashmika Mandanna

Rating: 1/5

Updated: September 20, 2022, 6:48 PM