Sri Lanka is a favourite getaway for UAE travellers, and it's easy to see why. About four hours away by air, the island offers beaches, tea-covered highlands, wildlife and historic cities within relatively easy reach of the Gulf.
Its growing reputation as a backpacking and digital nomad destination emphasises the affordable end of the spectrum, but Sri Lanka also has a well-established luxury hotel scene.
Amanwella is among its most enduring examples. Set on a crescent-shaped bay near the fishing town of Tangalle, the five-star resort has been welcoming guests for more than two decades.
It opened in March 2005, shortly after sister property Amangalla, in Galle, bringing Aman's signature understated approach to luxury to the country's southern coast.
On my first visit to Sri Lanka, I check in to see how well that formula has aged.
The welcome
My overnight flight is a few seats shy of full, and I almost miss my meet-and-greet at Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport among the sea of signs bearing travellers' names. Despite it being low season, it’s busy.
Yet the roads don’t seem crowded as we make our way towards the southern coast. Twenty minutes into the two-hour drive, I’m spotting Buddha statues and figurines everywhere from temples to service stations. Trees bejewelled with king coconuts and jackfruits line the roads, and my driver, Ruwan, doesn’t skip a beat, pointing out rice and tea fields as we pass.
Pristine green betel leaves are placed in my hand as a form of welcome when I arrive at Amanwella shortly before noon. While the grounds are vast, covering some 14 hectares, the shared spaces are minimal, meaning my resort tour is brief.
The cosy library is fragrant with fresh cinnamon, while the roaring ocean provides a dramatic backdrop to the 47-metre infinity pool. I stop at the lounge bar for a passion fruit and mint cooler before being welcomed to my garden pool suite, one of 28 guest villas.
The suite
The serenity of the suite is so seductive that I don’t leave it on arrival day until it's time for dinner. Before temperatures (albeit modestly) drop, I lie poolside under the overcast sky for several hours, as this outdoor space by the suite’s entrance feels completely secluded. I take a dip in the plunge pool before soaking in the free-standing bathtub.
As the sun goes down, I move to the opposite terrace overlooking the coconut trees and Silent Beach – nicknamed so due to its lack of crowds.
Other than the toque macaque monkeys scrambling up branches, I barely see another soul as I pass the time watching the palm leaves sway.
Moving indoors is a seamless transition from the 99-square-metre suite’s rustic surroundings. Rattan sliders cover the wall-to-wall glass doors. Dark timber frames are complemented by terrazzo flooring and stone accent walls. Soft furnishings come in shades of grey and sand. In the shower, nondescript metallic bottles disguise silky conditioner, aromatic shampoo and essential oil-rich shower gel.
Wooden shutters separate the bed, writing desk, armchair and tea and coffee station from the toilet, twin sinks, showers, bathtub and dressing space, but since I’m travelling solo, I leave them open throughout my two-night stay.
The food
After a day snacking on cassava crisps in the room, I head down to the restaurant for dinner. I take a seat outside, overlooking the pool and beach, but the night sky has masked the scenery. Stars shine bright in the black sky, and the waves refuse to soften simply because the sun is nowhere to be seen. Candlelight and a trio of instrumentalists complete the scene.
I start with oven-roasted eggplant salad (9,000 Sri Lankan rupees or $27). The soft eggplant and well-dressed leaves are balanced with a cashew and pomegranate crunch. For mains, I order vegetable curry and rice (Rs8,500), served thali-style with aubergine, cabbage, potato, green bean and lentil-based dishes alongside poppadoms, rice and salad.
The chef excitedly escorts the dish to my table, talking me through each small bowl. He proudly assures me that this is authentic Sri Lankan food. Each dish feels fresh and full of flavour with its spices perfectly balanced. The meal ends with scrumptious banana fritters accompanied by a scoop of passion fruit sorbet (Rs7,200).
I spend nearly three hours slowly eating and chatting away with my server, Sujith. He tells me his favourite dish is fish curry, as he points out the distant lights glistening on the water: fishing boats waiting for the night's catch.
At breakfast the following morning, I sit inside as the rain cinematically lashes down, leaving a rainbow stretching across the Indian Ocean. I order a ginger and turmeric wellness shot to start, then tuck into chia pudding, and hummus on toast with a side of hash browns and mushrooms.
The beach club is the second dining venue on site, specialising in seafood dishes such as yellowfin tuna steak and sea rock lobster. However, I only use it as a scenic working spot, with fresh king coconut water to sip.
Spa and wellness
Treatments take place in a dedicated one-bedroom villa. I sign up for the blissful retreat ($290), a 150-minute treatment that begins with a full-body scrub using a blend of Himalayan salt and lavender oil.
Next, I take a warm shower before soaking for 15 minutes in a warm bath filled with coconut milk, orange slices and fresh cucumber, which leaves my skin feeling extra supple. For the massage, my therapist switches to nutmeg oil, explaining that it helps to ease muscle pain, and uses a blend of techniques as part of the Aman signature massage style.
If the setting wasn't serene enough, the sound of rain on the wooden roof only made it more meditative.
Other spa options include a range of traditional Ayurvedic treatments as well as chakra balancing and breathwork sessions. Wellness activities include tai chi and daily complimentary yoga sessions on the beach.
The neighbourhood
Confession: while in Tangalle, I don't leave the resort. It goes against my usual travel principles, but this time the aim was to switch off. This feels apt for the Aman philosophy; the name is rooted in the Sanskrit word for peace.
However, there are several compelling options. Animal lovers can sign up for whale and dolphin watching and turtle hatching. Trips to several national parks (each a minimum of an hour's drive) can be arranged, including for migratory bird watching and elephant and leopard safaris.
Closer to the hotel, Amanwella can arrange a pottery tour of Palapotta village, where potters use terracotta clay from nearby riverbeds. Guests can also explore Tangalle itself on foot, for fresh seafood or trinkets and souvenirs.
If time (and the weather) permits, my priority would be to visit Mulkirigala Raja Maha Vihara rock temple. Be warned, however: a glimpse requires climbing 500 or so steps to the landmark which dates back more than 2,000 years.
The service
The service at this Aman property feels genuine. It's easy to go between chatting with the staff and asking for recommendations, and resort manager Janith happily attends to my WhatsApp queries. Many of the staff members are local, and they speak passionately about the diverse landscape of Tangalle and Sri Lanka.
The verdict
Leaning into resort life, mental clutter slips away in favour of studying the trees and savouring every dish. With a price tag of more than $1,000 per night, embracing the minimal-by-design resort is almost the point. To feel secluded from the world while immersed in nature is a form of luxury that Amanwella perfects.
Bottom line
Rates for a one-bedroom garden pool suite start from $1,254 (Dh4,606). Check-in is at 2pm and checkout at 12pm. Prices include daily breakfast and afternoon tea, in-room refreshments and daily yoga classes. Service charges and taxes are additional to menu prices.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future
