What surprised me when I returned to China (a part of my heritage) as an adult

A trip to cover the Zayed Charity Run took me back to a country I'd last visited 20 year ago. It had been too long...

A four-day stay in the Huairou district in the northern Beijing province helped the author see a different side of China. Getty Images

It had been more than 20 years since my last trip to China. As a teenager, I visited with my family as we travelled through Beijing, Shanghai and Xi’an. At the time, it was an eye-opening experience, with unique sights and sounds.

Perhaps most importantly, the trip gave me – as a Chinese-American – a chance to connect with a part of my heritage that I had known so little about growing up in the US.

So when the opportunity came to cover Zayed Charity Run’s inaugural race in Beijing, I felt a mix of excitement and curiosity. Two decades had passed since I was last in the country, and I wasn’t sure what to expect this time.

The run took place near the Great Wall, so our group stayed a bit outside of the city. The trip was short – just four days – but it offered me a glimpse into a China that has transformed since my last visit.

There’s nature everywhere, and it is beautiful

Mountain air and lush views from Qihu Hotel. Evelyn Lau / The National

On social media, China is often shown as a land of contrasts: towering mega-cities set against glowing, cyberpunk-style skylines or lantern-lit traditional streets. However, staying in Huairou District, a little more than an hour away from the city centre, revealed another side.

Each morning began with crisp mountain air and the sight of lush greenery across the landscape. Afternoons were quiet, calm and restorative by Yanqi Lake, where the gorgeous landscape and stillness of the water made it easy to forget how close we actually were to Beijing. It was a slice of serenity I won’t soon forget.

Kindness towards animals

Cat homes and food bowls for strays near the Great Wall. Evelyn Lau / The National

While at one of the entrances to the Great Wall, which was also the finish line for the Huairou Great Wall marathon, I was pleasantly surprised to see little houses with cat beds and food bowls set up for strays in the area.

As someone who loves cats, I was happy and impressed by this set-up and how well cared for they seemed to be. Even when walking around the historic landmark, I kept coming across strays who seemed to be well-fed and content, just lounging or sleeping around without a care in the world.

Everyday acts of generosity

Beyond animal kindness, I was struck by the generosity of people in small moments. A shop owner patiently watched me go around her little store for far too long before I could decide if I wanted to buy anything.

When I tried to use my very basic Mandarin skills to bargain, some playfully indulged me by telling me my language skills weren’t bad. I had this interaction a few times, and each time I was left feeling proud for at least trying.

A blend of modern and traditional

Technology blends seamlessly with traditions in China's Huairou District. Evelyn Lau / The National

Another surprise was how seamlessly modern convenience exists alongside age-old traditions. Mobile payments and QR codes were everywhere, even in small shops and at countryside stalls. Yet, just a short walk away, I was standing before the Great Wall, a structure that has watched over the vast mountains for centuries.

This coexistence feels uniquely Chinese: a place where rapid innovation doesn’t erase traditions, but blends with them in everyday life.