Nobu Warsaw review: Go for the food, stay for the secret jazz club

Fashionable LA brand serves up a happening place to eat, sleep and sway in Polish capital

Nobu Warsaw is striking both from the outside and within. Photo: Nobu Hotels

I first visited Nobu, the restaurant, on a trip to Los Angeles in 2018. Kanye West was dining a few tables over. It was my introduction to the brand, and great first impressions were made.

The celeb hangout is casually cool in one way, but it also has an air of “the place to go to say you've been”.

Seven years later, and I'm served another first – spending a few nights at Nobu, the hotel. Far from California this time, I landed in colourful Warsaw after boarding Etihad's inaugural flight to the Polish capital from Abu Dhabi. High expectations already set, here's how my stay unfolded.

The welcome

Sometimes, I get the calling to cut off from the world and seek out a digital detox. Other times, the digital detox finds me.

This is precisely what happened as I check into Nobu Warsaw. Standing in the stylishly dark lobby, a kind front desk staff member reels off the need-to-knows of the hotel's facilities. “And to connect to the Wi-Fi, the password will be...”, she says, before stopping herself. Due to a sizeable default beyond staff's control, the Wi-Fi is down. “Ah, force of habit!” she adds.

Inconvenient? Yes. Tragedy? Not quite. More a blessing in disguise. Once I frantically email some work notes on the hotspot set up in the hotel bar, the lack of connection means I peel my attention away from my screens and soak in the experience, right down to savouring the lemongrass aroma in the lobby as I observe fellow guests as room cards are readied.

It's a reminder that five-star hospitality isn't about unattainable perfection. Service, smiles and not sweating the small stuff usually helps.

The room

The room benefits from wood accents and soft lighting. Photo: Nobu Hotels

The building where Nobu Warsaw stands was built in the 1920s, and served as The Rialto hotel before it was revamped as an extension of chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa and Robert De Niro's culinary brainchild in August 2020.

Bringing the Japanese-American style to the European city, the owners made the wise decision to preserve the building's heritage – an on-brand choice in Warsaw. While half the hotel boasts sleek rooms in Nobu's signature style, the other half showcases Art Deco influences, still maintaining a classic look where possible.

I check into one of the newer spaces, a fifth-floor executive room that is a natural extension of the lobby's style. Think wooden flooring and wall panels, grey granite walls and white marble bathrooms. Nobu aces the soft lighting, and the view of the Palace of Culture and Science over the city rooftops is the cherry on top.

It would be no exaggeration to deem this one of the most comfortable beds I've slept in.

The food

Even if you don't stay in the hotel, Nobu restaurant is a must-visit for foodies heading to Warsaw. Photo: Nobu Hotels

Naturally, Nobu restaurant is the heart of the hotel, and it offers separate breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, sushi and dessert menus.

Breakfast offers a Japanese twist on a la carte options. There's Matsushia Benedict, brioche toast, poached eggs, spinach, crayfish, shiso hollandaise and salmon egg, while the smashed avo and egg on toast comes with dry miso. At the buffet, all the usual breads, fruits, cereals, pastries and cold cuts are on offer. I keep it light with fruits and toast, won over by the pear, aji amarillo pepper and cinnamon marmalade.

For an early lunch the next day, a selection of items from across the menus make for a refreshing spread, including edamame, avocado tacos, Padron peppers, vegetable maki and vegetable hand rolls (50 Polish zlotys each; Dh51), and baby spinach salad with dry miso (90PLN).

For dinner, it's a multi-course tasting menu. There's a Signature option (450PLN) or a Warsaw (580PLN) spin on the dining experience.

I'm served a vegan-friendly take on the former, and it's a masterclass in simple ingredients brought to life. An avocado and mushroom salad, vegetable sushi and maki rolls, sticky aubergine, grilled cauliflower, and a coconut cream and berry dessert are transformed into flavour-packed mouthfuls by culinary experts.

The scene

Booking well in advance is highly recommended for underground jazz club Jassmine. Photo: Nobu Hotels

Yes, the restaurant's the heart, but the underground jazz venue – aptly named Jassmine – is its soul. The vibrant club came at the expense of a car park at the hotel – parking spots are gold dust on Warsaw streets – demonstrating just how integral a slice of culture is to experiencing the city.

It's all booked up the evening I plan to go, but I peek my head around the door. On a weeknight, there's not an empty seat in sight and a roaring crowd chatters in that beautifully buzzy way. The night I almost visit, British guitar player Dominic Miller is set to take the stage.

Elsewhere in the hotel, there's a chic bar (which I only visit for the aforementioned hotspot service), and a sauna and compact but well-equipped gym on floor seven.

The neighbourhood

The Mermaid Statue in Old Town is a said to represent Warsaw's spirit of resilience. Hayley Kadrou / The National

There's plenty to see and do in Warsaw. Nobu Warsaw is located in the Srodmiescie district, which is home to many of the city's key attractions. Hala Koszyki, a basket factory turned food court, is just four minutes away, while the Palace of Science and Culture is about a 12-minute walk, with shops, cafes and restaurants nearby. The Old Town, a Unesco World Heritage site, is about 45 minutes on foot or 20 minutes by car.

Highs and lows

The bed in my room is the stuff dreams are made of. Although, given how well rested I was, not being able to spend more time at Jassmine felt like a missed opportunity.

The verdict

Historical exterior of Nobu Warsaw, which was built in the 1920s. Photo: Nobu Hotels

Did Nobu Warsaw measure up to my first impression? Almost. It's beautifully debonair in design and certainly casually cool. I don't celeb-spot at breakfast, but my ears do perk up at mentions of bands and musicians dropped into conversation in that eased, familial way.

Whether you check in to name-drop or not, Nobu Warsaw speaks for itself as a worthy place to eat, sleep and, if you book early enough, sway.

The bottom line

Prices start from 880 PLN per night, but vary based on season and demand. Check-in is from 3pm, check-out is at noon.

This review was conducted at the invitation of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and reflects the standards during this time. Services may change in future