Aman Kyoto hotel review: A secret garden stay in the foothills of Japan's Mount Daimonji

Two decades in the making, this luxury forest retreat offers an enchanted hideaway where forest bathing, onsens and omakase await

Aman Kyoto in a winter flurry. The Asano family's original mission at the property was to create the most beautiful in Japan. Photo: Aman Kyoto

Set within a manicured garden that was originally designed to be the "most beautiful in Japan", Aman Kyoto is a luxury hideaway hotel in the foothills of Kyoto's Mount Daimonji. If that sounds like the start of a fairy-tale, then it's the ideal way to introduce a property where Japanese culture, tradition, nature and imagination combine with fabled five-star service.

When it opened its doors in 2019, just before the Covid-19 pandemic forced Japan to shut out international visitors, the hotel had a bumpy start but has fully recovered. The National went east to find out what to expect from Aman's third luxury hotel in the land of the rising sun.

The welcome

As we arrive in Kyoto after taking the bullet train from Tokyo, my family and I are met at the train station by a smartly dressed driver who speeds us through the city's winding streets towards the hotel. There is no grand lobby or reception area at this exclusive hideaway. Instead, guests are taken to a small welcome area – indoor or out, as the weather dictates – where cold towels, canapes and welcome drinks are served. Check-in formalities are all taken care of while we enjoy a drink and the lush garden surroundings.

The neighbourhood

The hotel is on the outskirts of the city's northern Takagamine district. The Golden Pavilion, one of Kyoto's most famous houses of worship and a Unesco World Heritage Site, is within walking distance. Bicycles at the hotel are complimentary for those who want to explore and cars with drivers are readily available for longer journeys.

The room

Spacious, minimalist and decorated in neutral tones, rooms at Aman Kyoto celebrate traditional Japanese elements with tatami floors, low tables and geometric shapes. Floor-to-ceiling windows and doors open out directly to nature and the blackout curtains can be controlled at the touch of a button, meaning there’s no need to get out of bed to let in the morning sunshine.

Rooms are minimalist canvases that embrace traditional Japanese elements. Photo: Aman Kyoto

A walk-in wardrobe offers plenty of storage space and leads to a humungous bathroom, where a square ofuro bathtub (constructed from hinoki wood native to Japan) can easily fit five people and acts as a makeshift swimming pool for my one-year-old. His-and-her sinks, a separate shower and a WC that’s tucked away in its own little room and comes with all the mod-cons expected of a Japanese toilet complete the suite.

Housed in an industrial-style building, the room is a nod to the site’s previous owners, the Asano family, who were kimono manufacturers turned landscape gardeners with deep pockets. There are 24 guest rooms in an upstairs/downstairs set-up. It means there can be a lack of privacy when sharing an entryway or staircase with guests in rooms above or below, but if the hotel’s two pavilions are entirely private and perched on a hilltop overlooking the garden.

The scene

The Asano family's influence is everywhere, from the giant slab stones laid out to create a sculpture-like footpath to the carefully constructed kimono shapes cut into the trees.

The resort was designed by Australian architect Kerry Hill, who worked extensively with Aman, and his vision is everywhere. After spending more than a decade transforming the space, he sadly died before the hotel opened. A small memorial garden commemorates his contribution and is worth stopping at when wandering the never-ending gardens.

One of the private onsens where guests can soak at the Aman Spa. Photo: Aman Kyoto

Stone steps lead to the Aman Spa, a perfect little haven of wellness where guests can soak in private onsens – the closest this hotel comes to a swimming pool – that have been carefully built to reflect the surrounding garden and appear almost natural.

Garden tours are hosted by Sakura. The resort’s bubbly guide is a fountain of knowledge and points out unique photo opportunities and hidden waterfalls as she regales us of the resort's fascinating history.

There are only a handful of accommodation options, but the resort does not feel busy even when at capacity. During our stay, guests include families, domestic and international tourists and couples on their honeymoon.

The food

Breakfast is served at The Living Pavilion, and there is no buffet in sight. Instead, it’s an a la carte menu with Western options or a Japanese breakfast of fermented options such as miso soup and pickles, served with sashimi, soymilk porridge and grilled fish and all presented in an elegant black box. The omakase dinner, which has ingredients sourced as locally as possible, is also worth sampling.

Guests can partake in complimentary afternoon tea. Photo: Aman Kyoto

Taka-An restaurant is a must for foodies. Headed by chef Shinichiro Takagi, it has a menu all about seasonality, artistry and ingredients. Settling into the private dining room – something that helps contain our one-year-old – we indulge in the omakase menu which involves a marathon feast of different dishes. There are nine in total and each is as artful as the next. The menu changes with the seasons and the chef's input means no two meals are ever the same. It's an experience not to miss.

A complimentary Japanese afternoon tea is available each day and, just before sunset, guests are invited to gather at The Living Pavilion for canapes and drinks. It's a lovely way to mark the transition from day to night, watch golden hour filter through the trees and even get to know some of the other guests sharing this intimate space.

The highs and lows

My Aman Kyoto Signature Journey treatment is a real delight. It involves 60 minutes of intense but relaxing body massage using essential oils that have been used by Kyoto's maiko and geiko for centuries.

Bring a baby carrier if travelling with an infant because the slabbed walkways are not conducive to pushchairs.

The service

Chefs at work at the hotel's Taka-An restaurant. Photo: Aman Kyoto

Seemingly effortless, housekeeping happens when we are out and about. Gifts are left in our room each night and our room is serviced multiple times a day. Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, remembering things like how we prefer our coffee; sourcing hotel drivers for excursions into town; and going out of their way to entertain and interact with my young daughter.

The insider tip

Don’t miss the complimentary garden walk with Sakura. She is a fountain of knowledge about the property, the city of Kyoto and Japanese traditions and customs.

The verdict

The Asano family's mission to create the most beautiful in Japan has been kept alive with this stunning forest hideaway, where guests want for nothing. Except, perhaps, a few extra nights.

The bottom line

Rates start from $1,756 (excluding taxes). Check-in from 3pm; checkout is until noon.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the resort and reflects standards during this time. Services may change in the future