Bhutan has just become significantly more accessible for UAE residents. The small landlocked Himalayan country, often described as the Switzerland of Asia, is now connected to Dubai via twice weekly flights via Drukair – Royal Bhutan Airlines.
The national airline of Bhutan is operating two weekly flights between Dubai and the city of Paro, with a flight time of five hours and a route that goes directly past Mount Everest. It means there's now a direct connection between the UAE and Bhutan, with travellers previously having to fly first to Kathmandu, Mumbai or Delhi, and then take a second flight to the kingdom.
Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to visit Bhutan – flying via the Nepalese capital. My January visit delivered exactly what I was looking for weather-wise on an escape from Dubai, with sunny but crisp and cold days – with brief flurries of snow when visiting higher-altitude destinations, and mild days with temperatures hovering around the mid-20s Celsius in the tropical middle of the country.
Having spent some time in this fascinating country, I'd recommend three main ways to tackle it. One, go for all-out luxury at one of the country’s many five-star hotels. Two, opt for an adventure focus or option three, combine the two – with hiking, rafting, archery (the country’s national sport) and rock climbing filling your days, then unwinding in the comfort of your luxury hotel (and its spa) for the evening.
Here is everything you need to know if you're planning a trip to Bhutan.
Tourism fees, visas and guides in Bhutan
Bhutan is a country best seen on the move. International visitors will likely arrive at Paro International Airport, then travel between different dzongkhags (valleys or districts). Visitors can only travel independently in Paro and Thimphu. When travelling throughout the rest of the country, a tourism-board approved guide is required. These can either be organised via hotels or through travel agencies, and are well worth investing in to get the most out of your visit.
I was staying at Amankora, and the hotel has lodges located in five different valleys, which meant all the internal travelling logistics were handled by the hotel group. Once in Bhutan, I did all of my travelling by car, but it is possible to take internal flights to the eastern destinations, Gelephu, Bumthang and Yonphula.
Visas or permits are essential for visitors of all nationalities. Most tour operators will assist with obtaining a visa, but the Bhutanese department of tourism website clearly outlines entry restrictions. There is a one-off fee of $40 for the visa application process, then all visitors (apart from Indian passport holders) pay a daily $100 Bhutan Sustainable Development Fee. This steep tourism fee was brought down from $200 in 2023, but remains a significant expense. It is used to fund various sustainable development projects in the country such as environmental conservation, cultural preservation, and infrastructure development.
Hiking to Paro Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) monastery
A must-do on any trip to Bhutan is a visit to Paro Taktsang, a sacred Buddhist monastery complex that's also known as Tiger’s Nest. If you’ve seen any photos of Bhutan, you will have likely seen an image of Paro Taktsang, a collection of white and gold buildings, precariously built into cliffside caverns. Located in the town of Paro, the site dates back to the ninth century when it served as a meditation cave, and the monastery was established in the late 17th century.
More than just a mountain hike, Paro Taktsang is one of the holiest sites in Buddhism, and for many believers, it’s a sacred pilgrimage. Located at around 3,000 metres above sea level and 800 metres high in the valley; there are varying numbers online when it comes to the distance, but my hike was a 9km round-trip. The journey up to Paro Taktsang is, by and large, moderately difficult, with some patches of challenging steep climbing. There are participants of all ages and fitness levels taking the journey on, each going at their own pace.
After 2km of walking (about halfway), there is a prayer wheel stop, which offers an amazing view of the monastery and a cafe with very clean toilets, which is useful to know. After a break here, there is a fairly flat walk for about 400 metres, followed by 400 metres of descending stairs, and then 300 metres of ascending stairs, which is the most challenging part of the journey.
The surrounds are stunning. Walking through a pine forest, with paths lined with Buddhist prayer flags, I enjoyed using the journey as something akin to a walking meditation. Throughout the hike, I was in awe of the sweeping monastery view and enjoyed finding out more about the indigenous flora and fauna on path-side signs.
The busiest part of the entire experience is at the monastery itself. Phones aren’t permitted and must be left at the entrance. Inside, travellers pass through a series of four main temples and caves where, as legend has it, eighth century guru Padmasambhava entered the site on a tiger’s back before turning one of the caves into a meditation site, where he contemplated for more than three years. The buildings are all connected by staircases and bridges, and views of the Paro valley are abundant from the holy site.
Coming down is via the ascending cliff-side stairs once again, but after that it is, by and large, an easy downhill walk.
My main tip for the journey is to begin as early as you can. We left on a winter’s morning at 9am and it was a pleasant quiet journey, but by the time we were coming down around lunchtime, the site was much busier with people ascending the mountain.
What to do: treks, white-water rafting and birdwatching
Tiger’s Nest aside, there are many other treks to take on in Bhutan. Well-established longer journeys including the four-day Druk Path and 12-day Jhomolhari trek are both popular among experienced walkers. For beginners, there are almost too many hikes to choose from. I tried a shorter 3.6km hike to Druk Wangditse Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the Bhutanese capital Thimphu. The journey snakes across a mountain, offering views of the city and its monuments. It is also at a lower altitude, making it a good one to try when acclimatising to Bhutan's elevation.
I also hiked up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten in Punakha dzongkhag, located in the warmer centre of the country. The temple was built in 2004 by Tshering Yangdon, mother of Bhutan's king. Very different from the pine forest hikes of the west, it is a sun-filled walk that encompasses agriculture fields and flowing streams. It’s worth stopping for a moment of pause as you go, simply to take stock of the stunning valley views.
Also popular are white-water rafting and kayaking, appealing to those seeking adrenalin-fuelled experiences. In the Punakha, I went rafting down the Mo Chhu river, an exhilarating experience and a very fresh way to start a bright January day, the activity is available from March to April and again from November to January. The Mo Chhu and Pho Chu are the two main rivers in Bhutan, which connect in Punakha, and if you're visiting in the winter months, it's handy to know that the Mo Chhu is slightly warmer.
On the other end of the adrenalin junkie scale is birdwatching, which is a popular activity in Bhutan. The rare white-bellied heron can be spotted in the Mo Chhu area, as can bay woodpeckers, fire-capped tits and white-gorgeted flycatchers.
What to eat in Bhutan
Much of the flavour profile of Bhutanese food overlaps with Indian, Nepalese and Tibetan cuisine. But at its heart, the cuisine reflects the country’s high altitude and, often, chilly climes, which means hearty stews are popular. Chillies are the most prevalent ingredient and an essential part of nearly every dish, so expect food to come with a kick. The country’s national dish is ema datshi, a tasty chilli and cheese stew.
One way to get to grips with the cuisine is to take a cooking class, which can be organised by most hotels and travel agents. I get the chance to do exactly that at Amankora Punakha lodge, where I learn how to make the national dish consisting of a cup of chillies (green in our case), yak’s cheese, garlic, water and oil. Also prevalent on many menus are momos, delicious dumplings filled with mixes of spiced meats, vegetables, and, much to my delight, locally caught mackerel.
