Latin America’s largest metropolis can be intimidating for the first time visitor, but follow a few key tips and it is possible to plunge into Mexico City's unique past, from pre-Hispanic culture through the baroque golden age of Spain’s colonial conquistadores through revolution, independence and today’s vibrant art and architecture scene.
While the metro and bus systems are efficient and safe, to get around swiftly stick to Uber, resist the temptation to hail a street cab, and you'll enjoy 72 hectic, exciting and fun hours in Mexico's capital.
Day One: Downtown treasures
The ideal base for exploring CDMX as everyone calls Mexico City is the downtown Centro Historico around the landmark Zocalo square. There are plenty of hotels to choose from, but difficult to beat is the fashionable Umbral, housed in a renovated Art Deco bank, with arty designer rooms and rooftop pool.
Head out early the first morning to explore downtown, beginning at La Merced, a dazzling, chaotic food market that dates back to the 1300s. Marvel at the multicoloured chillies, tropical fruits, piles of cactus leaves and wild mushrooms then enjoy a traditional street food breakfast of steamed fish tamales or, if you're feeling adventurous, pancita or beef tripe soup.
The immense Zocalo is one of the world’s largest squares, and the perfect introduction to CDMX with its sacred ruins of the original Aztec city of Tenochtitlan in the recent Templo Mayor archeological excavations, alongside gothic and baroque monuments of colonial New Spain symbolised by the National Palace and Cathedral. The downtown side streets are lined with lavish post-independence buildings in a unique Mexican style, from a palatial Post Office inspired by Venice’s Doges Palace to 1890s department stores that mirror La Samaritaine and Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Soak up this very special atmosphere over lunch in House of Tiles, an 18th century baroque mansion adored by locals for its affordable and tasty tacos, tamales and enchiladas. It prepares you for an unforgettable afternoon of museum visiting, beginning with the grandiose Palacio de Bellas Artes, where the murals collection showcases the best of Mexico’s hallmark political murals, above all the controversial masterpiece of Diego Rivera, Man, Controller of the Universe.
Head to the Museo de Arte Popular, a hidden gem that's housed in an Art Deco fire station and presents a visually stunning exhibition of Mexico’s artisan folk crafts, spanning textiles, pottery, glass, paper-mache. Having survived all this on the first day, head back to the peaceful oasis of the Umbral and enjoy a gourmet dinner of creative Mexican cuisine in the elegant Paixa restaurant, tasting authentic dishes such as plump shrimp flambee in pulque sauce.
Day two: Museums, markets and more
Skip the hotel breakfast and walk over to the venerable Pasteleria Ideal for cafe con leche and a selection of irresistible cakes and pastries, then grab an Uber to La Ciudadela, a maze-like artisans market that's perfect for souvenir shopping. The quality is high here, though you need to bargain for the best prices for everything from colourful Indian masks and textiles, glassware and garish Day of the Death figurines.
A drive along the grand Reforma boulevard brings you out in the exclusive Polanco neighbourhood and verdant Chapultepec park, home of the city’s famed National Anthropology Museum. In the same league as the Louvre, British Museum or Smithsonian, the collection of pre-Hispanic art is immense and unparalleled, clearly explaining the cultured, complex world of Mexico’s indigenous Olmec, Mayan and Aztec people. After a marathon visit here, a good lunch is necessary, and the place to reserve is the 17th century colonial Hacienda de los Morales, a reminder that chic Polanco was once farming land. Converted today into a grand restaurant, guests come for the old-fashioned service and classics such as tortilla soup with cheese and avocado, seabass ceviche or stuffed peppers in a nutty nogada sauce.
Polanco has a huge shopping mall adjoining two recently completed private modern art museums housed in spectacular futuristic architecture. Museo Soumaya resembles the Guggenheim Bilbao and showcases the private collection of Carlos Slim, Mexico’s richest man. He has donated all his artworks to the nation – Monet, Manet, Gauguin, Titian, and dozens of Rodin sculptures – and entrance is free. Right opposite is the more minimalist Jumex, which hosts blockbuster temporary exhibitions devoted to the likes of Damien Hirst.
End the afternoon by exploring La Condesa, the city’s most cosmopolitan neighbourhood, with fashion and design boutiques, cool cafe terraces and the lively Espana Park, where locals walk their numerous dogs and take outdoor classes in Thai boxing, yoga and tango. To spend the most surprising and entertaining evening in town, arrive at Arena Mexico by 7.30pm. Home of the nation’s famed Lucha Libre masked wrestling, it plays host to 10,000 avid fans three times per week and is a flurry of thrilling competition performed by incredibly athletic male and female stars. The atmosphere is electric, fun for all the family and it could very well be the highlight of your trip.
Day three: Floating gardens and historic cantinas
An hour drive from the Zocalo takes you to the magical floating gardens of Xochimilco, a paradise for biodiversity, and the last remnants of the immense lakes upon which the original Mexico City was built by indigenous people. Everyone explores this Unesco World Heritage Site by hiring a brightly painted trajinera boat, languidly punted through a maze of lush canals. With serenading mariachis ready to board, small boats offering tacos and corn cobs, flower garlands and sombreros, the experience is totally kitsch but irresistible and memorable. Be sure to stop in the buzzing local food market, as smallholder farmers on the wetlands "chinampa" islands cultivate highly prized vegetables, with food stalls selling delicious quesadillas stuffed with rare huitlacoche mushrooms and spicy cactus salads.
For lunch, head into the romantic neighbourhood of Coyocan, whose baroque churches, ornate Liberty villas, parks, cafes and bistros make it the most popular spot for Mexicans at the weekend. Tourists make an obligatory visit to the Frida Kahlo Museum, the stunning cobalt-blue mansion and gardens that has been perfectly preserved since it was home to the two superstars of contemporary Mexican art, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Reservation is essential, though you still have to put up with big crowds.
For a genuine slice of Coyocan life, feast off traditional but creative Mexican cuisine at hip diner Los Danzantes, serving the city's best duck enchiladas, one smothered in a rich chocolatey mole sauce, the other in a tangy green adobe. In the evening, back in the Zocalo, wander through the old city’s historic cantinas, stopping off for drinks at the opulent Art Nouveau Mancera, lavishly-tiled and frescoed Cafe de Tacuba, and then join Chilango locals and musicians in the 1920s Salon Espana, where you can tuck into a late comfort food supper of the signature Azteca steak with Oaxaca cheese and refried beans.
The biog
Favourite films: Casablanca and Lawrence of Arabia
Favourite books: Start with Why by Simon Sinek and Good to be Great by Jim Collins
Favourite dish: Grilled fish
Inspiration: Sheikh Zayed's visionary leadership taught me to embrace new challenges.
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
How to turn your property into a holiday home
- Ensure decoration and styling – and portal photography – quality is high to achieve maximum rates.
- Research equivalent Airbnb homes in your location to ensure competitiveness.
- Post on all relevant platforms to reach the widest audience; whether you let personally or via an agency know your potential guest profile – aiming for the wrong demographic may leave your property empty.
- Factor in costs when working out if holiday letting is beneficial. The annual DCTM fee runs from Dh370 for a one-bedroom flat to Dh1,200. Tourism tax is Dh10-15 per bedroom, per night.
- Check your management company has a physical office, a valid DTCM licence and is licencing your property and paying tourism taxes. For transparency, regularly view your booking calendar.
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Uefa Nations League: How it works
The Uefa Nations League, introduced last year, has reached its final stage, to be played over five days in northern Portugal. The format of its closing tournament is compact, spread over two semi-finals, with the first, Portugal versus Switzerland in Porto on Wednesday evening, and the second, England against the Netherlands, in Guimaraes, on Thursday.
The winners of each semi will then meet at Porto’s Dragao stadium on Sunday, with the losing semi-finalists contesting a third-place play-off in Guimaraes earlier that day.
Qualifying for the final stage was via League A of the inaugural Nations League, in which the top 12 European countries according to Uefa's co-efficient seeding system were divided into four groups, the teams playing each other twice between September and November. Portugal, who finished above Italy and Poland, successfully bid to host the finals.
THE 12 BREAKAWAY CLUBS
England
Arsenal, Chelsea, Liverpool, Manchester City, Manchester United, Tottenham Hotspur
Italy
AC Milan, Inter Milan, Juventus
Spain
Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, Real Madrid
Arabian Gulf Cup FINAL
Al Nasr 2
(Negredo 1, Tozo 50)
Shabab Al Ahli 1
(Jaber 13)
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Avatar: Fire and Ash
Director: James Cameron
Starring: Sam Worthington, Sigourney Weaver, Zoe Saldana
Rating: 4.5/5
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
The specs
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Transmission: ten-speed
Power: 420bhp
Torque: 624Nm
Price: Dh325,125
On sale: Now
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Visit Abu Dhabi culinary team's top Emirati restaurants in Abu Dhabi
Yadoo’s House Restaurant & Cafe
For the karak and Yoodo's house platter with includes eggs, balaleet, khamir and chebab bread.
Golden Dallah
For the cappuccino, luqaimat and aseeda.
Al Mrzab Restaurant
For the shrimp murabian and Kuwaiti options including Kuwaiti machboos with kebab and spicy sauce.
Al Derwaza
For the fish hubul, regag bread, biryani and special seafood soup.
The specs: 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn
Price, base / as tested: Dhxxx
Engine: 5.7L V8
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 395hp @ 5,600rpm
Torque: 556Nm @ 3,950rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.7L / 100km
The smuggler
Eldarir had arrived at JFK in January 2020 with three suitcases, containing goods he valued at $300, when he was directed to a search area.
Officers found 41 gold artefacts among the bags, including amulets from a funerary set which prepared the deceased for the afterlife.
Also found was a cartouche of a Ptolemaic king on a relief that was originally part of a royal building or temple.
The largest single group of items found in Eldarir’s cases were 400 shabtis, or figurines.
Khouli conviction
Khouli smuggled items into the US by making false declarations to customs about the country of origin and value of the items.
According to Immigration and Customs Enforcement, he provided “false provenances which stated that [two] Egyptian antiquities were part of a collection assembled by Khouli's father in Israel in the 1960s” when in fact “Khouli acquired the Egyptian antiquities from other dealers”.
He was sentenced to one year of probation, six months of home confinement and 200 hours of community service in 2012 after admitting buying and smuggling Egyptian antiquities, including coffins, funerary boats and limestone figures.
For sale
A number of other items said to come from the collection of Ezeldeen Taha Eldarir are currently or recently for sale.
Their provenance is described in near identical terms as the British Museum shabti: bought from Salahaddin Sirmali, "authenticated and appraised" by Hossen Rashed, then imported to the US in 1948.
- An Egyptian Mummy mask dating from 700BC-30BC, is on offer for £11,807 ($15,275) online by a seller in Mexico
- A coffin lid dating back to 664BC-332BC was offered for sale by a Colorado-based art dealer, with a starting price of $65,000
- A shabti that was on sale through a Chicago-based coin dealer, dating from 1567BC-1085BC, is up for $1,950
The biog
Name: Dhabia Khalifa AlQubaisi
Age: 23
How she spends spare time: Playing with cats at the clinic and feeding them
Inspiration: My father. He’s a hard working man who has been through a lot to provide us with everything we need
Favourite book: Attitude, emotions and the psychology of cats by Dr Nicholes Dodman
Favourit film: 101 Dalmatians - it remind me of my childhood and began my love of dogs
Word of advice: By being patient, good things will come and by staying positive you’ll have the will to continue to love what you're doing
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Like a Fading Shadow
Antonio Muñoz Molina
Translated from the Spanish by Camilo A. Ramirez
Tuskar Rock Press (pp. 310)
MATCH INFO
Tottenham Hotspur 3 (Son 1', Kane 8' & 16') West Ham United 3 (Balbuena 82', Sanchez og 85', Lanzini 90' 4)
Man of the match Harry Kane
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Men’s singles
Group A: Son Wan-ho (Kor), Lee Chong Wei (Mas), Ng Long Angus (HK), Chen Long (Chn)
Group B: Kidambi Srikanth (Ind), Shi Yugi (Chn), Chou Tien Chen (Tpe), Viktor Axelsen (Den)
Women’s Singles
Group A: Akane Yamaguchi (Jpn), Pusarla Sindhu (Ind), Sayaka Sato (Jpn), He Bingjiao (Chn)
Group B: Tai Tzu Ying (Tpe), Sung Hi-hyun (Kor), Ratchanok Intanon (Tha), Chen Yufei (Chn)
Mountain%20Boy
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Ferrari 12Cilindri specs
Engine: naturally aspirated 6.5-liter V12
Power: 819hp
Torque: 678Nm at 7,250rpm
Price: From Dh1,700,000
Available: Now
WHAT IS GRAPHENE?
It was discovered in 2004, when Russian-born Manchester scientists Andrei Geim and Kostya Novoselov were experimenting with sticky tape and graphite, the material used as lead in pencils.
Placing the tape on the graphite and peeling it, they managed to rip off thin flakes of carbon. In the beginning they got flakes consisting of many layers of graphene. But when they repeated the process many times, the flakes got thinner.
By separating the graphite fragments repeatedly, they managed to create flakes that were just one atom thick. Their experiment led to graphene being isolated for the very first time.
In 2010, Geim and Novoselov were awarded the Nobel Prize for Physics.
