Italy’s Amalfi Coast is a destination associated with sunshine, stunning vistas and equally outstanding food.
One of the gems on this slice of coastline is the Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, one of several recent additions to the Thai hospitality brand's portfolio. It was formerly an NH Hotels property before reopening under Anantara in April.
The National checked in as one of the earliest guests to spend the night at this cliffside hideaway.
The welcome
Anantara Convento is perched halfway up a steep hillside that overlooks the harbour of Amalfi and the shimmering Tyrrhenian Sea off Italy’s south-west coast. Arrival is unconventional: pulling up on the busy main coast road, guests are whisked by lift to check in at the main building, a 13th-century Capuchin monastery with a still-consecrated chapel. It has the feel of a hotel that is a little different from the moment you arrive.
A welcome limonata (lemonade) made from the region’s ubiquitous sfusato Amalfitano lemons and picked from the trees around the hotel grounds, is provided along with a cooling towel. Staff are uniformly welcoming, with English spoken by all far better than my poor Italian.
The neighbourhood
A 10-minute walk – or hotel shuttle – away is Amalfi’s harbour, handsome cathedral and town centre, with useful amenities beyond the many tourist shops. If you have hired a car you will be able to reach any of the coast’s towns or beach clubs in an hour or so, but driving is for the confident only as the road is often narrow and winds incessantly along the jagged coastline. A more relaxed activity is a boat ride – the island of Capri is wildly popular for day trips – and the hotel can arrange excursions.
The room
All rooms are luxurious by any standards. I stayed in an Anantara Suite, with a stylish living area, a bathroom with a phenomenal shower, a balcony and a large bedroom. A jug of fresh milk is provided in the minibar – a nice touch I don’t recall receiving anywhere else I've stayed.
The service
From the maitre d’ to the waiter who takes care of guests by the pool, service was professional and charming. Many of the staff were born locally and have worked at the hotel for years, their service and knowledge are impeccable.
The scene
It is a tranquil spot with drop-dead gorgeous views and a wonderful terrace to stroll along between the hotel and an infinity pool that is already a hit on Instagram. Sunblock and after-sun products are provided at the poolside.
Given its history as a home to the Capuchin religious order, it makes sense that the hotel has a chapel, and since the Amalfi Coast is very much honeymoon territory, weddings with receptions on the terrace are popular.
An employee said to listen out for unusual nocturnal sounds – hinting that a ghost might be in evidence – however, I slept undisturbed on an excellent mattress.
The hotel feels at once sophisticated and geared towards adults, but remains popular with families with young children and offers babysitting services, too.
The food
The hotel subscribes to the Italian-born Slow Food movement, pursues zero waste (they use every bit of their lemons for different products) and has a very fragrant kitchen garden. The produce of the Campania region – think buffalo mozzarella and Datterini tomatoes – are very much on show at outdoor restaurant La Locanda della Canonica Pizzeria – a collaboration with Neapolitan celebrity chef Gino Sorbillo.
Among the pizzas I sampled, the greatest was simply topped with tomatoes, basil and Provolone del Monaco cheese. When you eat pizza in this region you understand the fuss about the Neapolitan original: the crust is generous yet incredibly light and the toppings are perfect.
At the Dei Capuccini restaurant, starters included an excellent scampi with organic pumpkin, and mains a dish of slow-cooked beef cheek with marrow. Starters and pasta courses are priced at around €30 ($33) and main courses are typically around €50 – standard for high-end restaurants on the Amalfi Coast. There are also five and seven-course tasting menus.
Breakfast is an excellent buffet, eaten on the terrace, with egg orders also prepared al fresco by one of the chefs.
Highs and lows
There are many highs at this hotel: the views, the relaxed atmosphere, the scent of the many flowers and trees surrounding the hotel, the quality of rooms, the warmth of its staff and the lemon sorbet served at the pool, which might just be the greatest of all time.
The only low reflects the Amalfi Coast as a whole rather than the hotel: its famous towns and beach clubs tend towards the very expensive. It is also a region that takes some planning to visit if you are to keep costs in check so booking well ahead is advised, as is having some euros in cash to hand as some businesses on the coast do not take credit cards.
The insider tip
Anantara offers the Spice Spoons culinary experience across its properties and at Convento, the executive chef Claudio Lanuto takes guests on a tour of the kitchen garden. He then gives a pasta-making and cooking masterclass before visitors can enjoy their creations as part of a lunch on the terrace.
In our case, the menu was tagliolini in a buttery lemon sauce and cannelloni – a dish that is said to have originated at the hotel in the 1920s – here filled with buffalo ricotta, parmesan and lemon zest. The two-hour experience costs €150 a head and was a delight.
You will almost certainly fly into Naples if visiting Amalfi and it is worthy of some of your time. We found the city to be very welcoming, and it has the bonus of fabulous (and cheap) street food that is not to be missed.
The verdict
Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel is excellent, a calm port on a picturesque yet frenetic coast thronged by visitors for at least half the year. You could easily visit and not leave the hotel – but if exploring, it is a great pleasure to return to and enjoy the lemon-scented grounds on a summer’s evening.
The bottom line
Room rates start at €1,300 ($1,417) with breakfast included. Check-in is at 3pm and checkout is at 11am; www.anantara.com
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future.
