For Lebanon's vast diaspora, many of whom were forced to leave the country for better opportunities abroad, annual trips home are treasured moments.
But this summer has presented some with a dilemma. Not only are ticket prices prohibitive, or at least high enough to give pause for thought, but the unstable security situation owing to Israel's occupation and bombardment of the south of the country has also fuelled concerns.
While the glamorous beach clubs and expensive restaurants along Lebanon's lengthy coastline remain packed, the crowds belie the difficult situation facing some Lebanese trying to travel home.
Stephanie, 32, who works for an NGO in Lyon, wanted to spend her August break in Beirut. She drove to Switzerland to get a direct flight from Geneva with Middle East Airlines (MEA) – with a return fare normally priced at €800 ($920). This time, she found there were no flights for less than €1,200.
“Although it's the high season, I've never seen anything this expensive," she said. "On top of that, most of the flights were fully booked three weeks in advance. It's surprising to see how high the prices are."
A representative for the airline, Lebanon's flag carrier, said the higher ticket prices were reflective of the summer high season. While the airline has a monopoly on direct flights to places such as London – a vital stopping point for the large Lebanese diaspora in North America – high prices were also reported on low-cost airlines.
A Pegasus flight through Istanbul cost about €850, excluding luggage, and involved a 10-hour layover.
It is also widely understood that Israel's war with Hezbollah, which until April involved strikes being carried out only a few hundred metres away from the airport, means insurance prices are surging. MEA chairman Mohamad El Hout said the 2023 Hamas-led attack that sparked the Gaza war, and Lebanon's entry into the conflict, had reduced war-risk insurance coverage for the airline by about 80 per cent. That has led to far higher prices to cover potential damages.
Another Lebanese citizen Jad, 29, said he found himself unable to afford the fare home. “An MEA round trip would cost me around half of my monthly salary,” said the engineer, who lives in southern France. He added that flying with other airlines would involve an extensive layover, cost nearly as much and consist of early departures and late arrivals.
That is before accounting for the security situation, with flights at constant risk of cancellation owing to Israeli attacks. “Instead of going back home to see my mum and attend my friend's wedding, I ended up frustrated, missing out on important moments in the life of my family and friends,” he added.
He decided to take a trip to the US because "flying to New York is cheaper than flying to Beirut".
But while the high ticket prices proved too much for some, they did not deter others. “You can put a price on a plane ticket, but you can’t put a price on seeing your family and spending time in the country that will always feel like home,” said architect Grace Dergham, 29.
“Summer in Lebanon is my favourite time of the year. It’s when friends reunite from all around the world, wedding season is at its peak and there’s an unmatched energy everywhere you go. Those moments are priceless, and that’s why, no matter how expensive the ticket is, Lebanon is always worth the journey."
Beirut shop owner Hammoudi Al Ayan, 38, has 11 siblings living around the world, including a brother in Nigeria and a sister in Australia. This year, his family has cancelled their annual visit home for one reason. “It is because of the security situation,” he told The National as a drone hovered above the Achrafieh district of Beirut.
He is originally from the southern Lebanese village of Jwaaya, which has been damaged extensively by the Israeli military but remains outside its control. The family home was destroyed in an air strike, as has his apartment in the southern suburbs of Beirut.
Mohammad Kishli, 28, a consultant in the Gulf, said he would travel home, whatever it took. “My decision was never based solely on flight ticket prices or the current security situation," he added. "Of course, I stay informed and always consider the safety of my family, but Lebanon is home. It’s where my family, memories and roots are."
