The Lebanese city of Nabatieh is beginning to bustle again after months of devastating attacks by the Israeli military, even as the sound of distant explosions serves as a reminder of the continuing presence of Israeli troops in southern Lebanon.
The main city of the Nabatieh governorate is one of the major commercial centres in the south, ringed by about 40 villages and with roads leading into Lebanon’s mountains and the Mediterranean coast.
The ancient souq in the city centre is now barely recognisable, such is the level of destruction in the area. In October, as Israel stepped up attacks on targets it claimed to be linked to the Lebanese armed group Hezbollah, an air strike destroyed the municipal headquarters as a meeting to discuss aid distribution was being convened, killing 16 people including the mayor.
About 85 per cent of Nabatieh’s buildings – from homes to offices and banks – were destroyed, according to Mohammad Jaber, a representative of the local traders’ association, as well as about 300 businesses in city and the adjoining district of Kfarjoz.
“The partial destruction is massive and much larger than that,” he said, speaking to The National outside his jewellery shop in the souq, which appeared to have escaped unscathed and was busy with customers.
“We experienced a devastating, catastrophic, barbaric war during which many areas were destroyed, but Nabatieh was the most severely hit.”
One of the businesses in the souq that did not escape the bombing is the Falafel Al Arnaout restaurant, which is littered with debris, covered in dust and still without power supply.
The owner Ali Arnaout said the recipes he used were passed down from his grandfather, who arrived from Palestine a century ago, to his father and then on to him.
“Look, this says 'from Palestine to Nabatieh'," Mr Arnaout said, holding a charred sign at the back of the room. “Magazines and newspapers used to write about us, but everything is [now] destroyed," he said of the restaurant, which is more than 100 years old.
“In 2006, I had a store near Al Qard Al Hassan and it was destroyed,” he said, referring to the previous war between Israel and Lebanese armed group Hezbollah. Branches of Al Qard Al Hassan, a financial institution linked to Hezbollah, were targeted repeatedly by Israel in the latest war, which is currently paused by an extremely tenuous ceasefire.
Mr Arnaout said he was looking for a new place to open but he also wants to restore the ruined Falafel Al Arnaout premises.
Excavators began clearing the city of rubble after Israel and Hezbollah agreed to the truce in late November. But the fate of the ceasefire is in the balance, as each side accuses the other of breaching conditions of the agreement. Israel has carried on with its extensive demolition of border villages and continues to carry out sporadic air strikes. Hezbollah was supposed to withdraw to north of the Litani river, about 30km from the Israel border, and Israeli troops were required to pull out of southern Lebanon within a 60-day period ending on January 26.
Despite the devastation and hundreds of deaths caused by Israel’s attacks, signs that Nabatieh was an important support base of Hezbollah remain.The group’s yellow flags can be seen flapping in the January wind, while pictures of its long-time leader Hassan Nasrallah, who was killed by Israel in late September, and his expected successor Hashem Safieddine, killed the following month, are plastered across the city.
“Nabatieh is recovering and hopefully it will get better,” said municipality official Hassan Jaber, who now operates from a room in the souq that overlooks a square strewn with rubble.
He said about 90 per cent of shops outside the souq have reopened, while the popular weekly Monday market in the souq resumed this month and was busy this week. The exact scale of damage in the souq, which was almost completely destroyed by Israel, is yet to assessed.
“All the rubble is being removed and there will be reconstruction," Mr Jaber said. "It will certainly take time, not just a couple days – rather a year or two – but hopefully it will further recover."
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
Learn more about Qasr Al Hosn
In 2013, The National's History Project went beyond the walls to see what life was like living in Abu Dhabi's fabled fort:
Series result
1st ODI Zimbabwe won by 6 wickets
2nd ODI Sri Lanka won by 7 wickets
3rd ODI Sri Lanka won by 8 wickets
4th ODI Zimbabwe won by 4 wickets
5th ODI Zimbabwe won by 3 wickets
The specs: 2018 Jaguar E-Pace First Edition
Price, base / as tested: Dh186,480 / Dh252,735
Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder
Power: 246hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque: 365Nm @ 1,200rpm
Transmission: Nine-speed automatic
Fuel consumption, combined: 7.7L / 100km
How to apply for a drone permit
- Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
- Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
- Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
- Submit their request
What are the regulations?
- Fly it within visual line of sight
- Never over populated areas
- Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
- Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
- Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
- Should have a live feed of the drone flight
- Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
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Racecard
6.35pm: American Business Council – Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (Dirt) 1,600m
7.10pm: British Business Group – Maiden (TB) Dh82,500 (D) 1,200m
7.45pm: CCI France UAE – Handicap (TB) Dh87,500 (D) 1,400m
8.20pm: Czech Business Council – Rated Conditions (TB) Dh105,000 (D) 1,400m
8.55pm: Netherlands Business Council – Rated Conditions (TB) Dh95,000 (D) 1,600m
9.30pm: Indian Business and Professional Council – Handicap (TB) Dh95,000 (D) 1,200m
Men’s singles
Group A: Son Wan-ho (Kor), Lee Chong Wei (Mas), Ng Long Angus (HK), Chen Long (Chn)
Group B: Kidambi Srikanth (Ind), Shi Yugi (Chn), Chou Tien Chen (Tpe), Viktor Axelsen (Den)
Women’s Singles
Group A: Akane Yamaguchi (Jpn), Pusarla Sindhu (Ind), Sayaka Sato (Jpn), He Bingjiao (Chn)
Group B: Tai Tzu Ying (Tpe), Sung Hi-hyun (Kor), Ratchanok Intanon (Tha), Chen Yufei (Chn)
More coverage from the Future Forum
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
The five new places of worship
Church of South Indian Parish
St Andrew's Church Mussaffah branch
St Andrew's Church Al Ain branch
St John's Baptist Church, Ruwais
Church of the Virgin Mary and St Paul the Apostle, Ruwais
if you go
The flights
Emirates fly direct from Dubai to Houston, Texas, where United have direct flights to Managua. Alternatively, from October, Iberia will offer connections from Madrid, which can be reached by both Etihad from Abu Dhabi and Emirates from Dubai.
The trip
Geodyssey’s (Geodyssey.co.uk) 15-night Nicaragua Odyssey visits the colonial cities of Leon and Granada, lively country villages, the lake island of Ometepe and a stunning array of landscapes, with wildlife, history, creative crafts and more. From Dh18,500 per person, based on two sharing, including transfers and tours but excluding international flights. For more information, visit visitnicaragua.us.
RACE CARD
6.30pm: Madjani Stakes Group 2 (PA) Dh97,500 (Dirt) 1,900m
7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh82,500 (D) 1,400m
7.40pm: Maiden (TB) Dh82,500 (D) 1,600m
8.15pm: Handicap (TB) Dh87,500 (D) 2,200m
8.50pm: Dubai Creek Mile Listed (TB) Dh132,500 (D) 1,600m
9.25pm: Conditions (TB) Dh120,000 (D) 1,900m
10pm: Handicap (TB) Dh92,500 (D) 1,400m
Know before you go
- Jebel Akhdar is a two-hour drive from Muscat airport or a six-hour drive from Dubai. It’s impossible to visit by car unless you have a 4x4. Phone ahead to the hotel to arrange a transfer.
- If you’re driving, make sure your insurance covers Oman.
- By air: Budget airlines Air Arabia, Flydubai and SalamAir offer direct routes to Muscat from the UAE.
- Tourists from the Emirates (UAE nationals not included) must apply for an Omani visa online before arrival at evisa.rop.gov.om. The process typically takes several days.
- Flash floods are probable due to the terrain and a lack of drainage. Always check the weather before venturing into any canyons or other remote areas and identify a plan of escape that includes high ground, shelter and parking where your car won’t be overtaken by sudden downpours.
Suggested picnic spots
Abu Dhabi
Umm Al Emarat Park
Yas Gateway Park
Delma Park
Al Bateen beach
Saadiyaat beach
The Corniche
Zayed Sports City
Dubai
Kite Beach
Zabeel Park
Al Nahda Pond Park
Mushrif Park
Safa Park
Al Mamzar Beach Park
Al Qudrah Lakes
How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
- Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
- Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
- Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
- Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
- Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
- The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
- Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269
*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year
Race card
6.30pm: Handicap (TB) $68,000 (Dirt) 1,200m
7.05pm: Meydan Cup – Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (Turf) 2,810m
7.40pm: UAE 2000 Guineas – Group 3 (TB) $125,000 (D) 1,600m
8.15pm: Firebreak Stakes – Group 3 (TB) $130,000 (D) 1,600m
9.50pm: Meydan Classic – Conditions (TB) $$50,000 (T) 1,400m
9.25pm: Dubai Sprint – Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (T) 1,200m
Timeline
2012-2015
The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East
May 2017
The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts
September 2021
Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act
October 2021
Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence
December 2024
Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group
May 2025
The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan
July 2025
The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan
August 2025
Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision
October 2025
Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange
November 2025
180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE
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The specs
Engine: 2.3-litre, turbo four-cylinder
Transmission: 10-speed auto
Power: 300hp
Torque: 420Nm
Price: Dh189,900
On sale: now
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.