My first thought, when I set foot on the tiny island of Stromboli and gazed up at the great black cone overhead, waswhere do I run to if this thing blows? The answer, as my hydrofoil turned away from the pier and melted back into the Tyrrhenian Sea's broad, empty horizon, became graphically clear: nowhere, that's where. The first item of evidence that the island I had arrived on is one of the most active volcanoes in the world, and the only continuously erupting volcano in Europe, was the solid thud that stopped me in my tracks as I walked into Stromboli town. It sounded - and felt - as if an angry god had flattened a nearby island with its fist. I danced a little jig of excitement. The beast was awake.
I had never heard of Stromboli until late last year. A friend, who had just visited, told me about it in the sort of whisper people use when they don't want a really amazing secret to get out. It sounded like the most romantic place on the planet. If you approach the island on the overnight ferry from Naples, he told me, you can sit out on deck and watch it belching flames into the darkness like a restless dragon.
I arrived in mid-afternoon from the opposite direction, on a short hydrofoil hop from Milazzo in northeast Sicily, so I got no nocturnal preview of Stromboli's fiery energies. I found it difficult to believe that this big chunk of rock rising 900 metres out of the sea could possibly be spewing lava on a daily basis, let alone once every five or 10 minutes. The beautiful town that curves around Stromboli's north shore, with its whitewashed houses and car-free streets, was much too laid-back and peaceful. Didn't they realise what was bubbling up under their feet?
My hotel, La Sirenetta, a gorgeous, upmarket place at the end of a long, black-sand beach, also felt blissfully unaware. I settled into my luxurious chalet, set back from the main building, and took a quick dip in the salt-water pool. Then, as the sun was setting, I sat out on the front terrace and watched a family of dolphins breaking the glassy surface of the water. Farther out I could see Strombolicchio, a craggy block of basalt rising from the water like some infernal cathedral.
It took me a while to tear myself away from this spectacular view. But I had an appointment. Two friends of mine, a couple who were no doubt tapping the island's romantic potential, had arrived on Stromboli the previous day. They were staying at a different hotel, so we had arranged to meet in the main square. A sign beside the beach advised me that, in case of a full-scale eruption, I should climb to a higher point on the mountain. This seemed rather counterintuitive, but the first thing you need to worry about when the volcano blows are giant waves caused by the eruption hitting the water. This very rarely happens, but just to be on the safe side I left the seafront and climbed a narrow flight of steps up into the heart of the town.
My path was overhung by lemon trees and bordered by white walls, bright blue gates and colourful houses. As I approached the square, a plaque on a dark orange exterior caught my eye. Ingrid Bergman once lived here, it said. In 1949, the movie star came to the island to play a role in Roberto Rossellini's Stromboli. She ended up having a torrid affair with the director and they stayed together in this very house.
Just beyond the house, in the square, I discovered a delightful shrine to Stromboli's favourite celebrity. Perched on a promontory above the town, Bar Ingrid is one of the most stunningly located bars I've ever seen. Its bustling balcony affords panoramic views of Strombolicchio and the wide horizon beyond. It also serves delicious gelati. If those giant waves struck during my visit, this is where you'd find me.
And this is where I found Matthew and Emily. They were relaxing on the balcony and looking very pleased with themselves. I don't know why: they'd been on Stromboli a whole day and still hadn't managed to discern any volcanic activity. It was a ridiculous state of affairs, I informed them, so after a very pleasant half-hour at Ingrid's I marched them off to L'Osservatorio, a pizzeria higher up the mountain with a view of the crater.
The 40-minute walk to L'Osservatorio took us along the cove-dappled coast beyond the town and part of the way up the north flank of the volcano. Night had drawn in and we could see an ominous glow in the sky above us. The restaurant's terrace seemed like an excellent viewing point, and just as we sat down to order pizzas, our first eruption occurred. It was an enormous Roman candle that turned the night air red and showered the side of the mountain with rocks and crackling fire. We gasped, nodded at one another and laughed. We nearly stood up and gave it a round of applause.
Five minutes later, it happened again. The pizzas arrived and were consumed, but our attention was elsewhere. Now that our appetites had been whetted, we were ready to take a proper look. At five o'clock the following day, after a terrific lunch of spaghetti with clams at Punta Lena on the seafront, we joined a Magmatrek tour and set off up the mountain with a group of fellow enthusiasts. One of the lovely things about visiting Stromboli as a tourist is that, unless you come during high season in August, all the other tourists are here for the same reason: to marvel at the volcano. They don't come to party or shop or crowd out the beaches, and this must explain, in part, why the island still feels so unspoiled.
Our group was diverse in nationality and age - ranging from early 20s to late 70s - but we were alike in being enormously excited about what lay ahead. The first half of the climb, meandering through fertile undergrowth, was sweaty work. Then the path opened out onto scree and loose volcanic sand. We zigzagged up the carbon-coloured slope amid piles of purple-grey rocks, littered there by long-forgotten eruptions. The climb took nearly three hours, and as we closed in on the summit a seriously loud bang went off, shaking the earth and sending a cloud of sulphurous smoke high into the atmosphere.
The sun was setting as we reached the top, donned our hard hats and took our seats for the spectacle. Below us was the crater, a wide lop-sided bowl with two open vents, one of which was continuously spluttering out flames. We were perched on the crater's upper lip, high enough above the action to feel secure. When the first big eruption occurred, it didn't come from the fiery vents but from an unpromising patch of ground on the other side of the bowl. Lava blasted 30 metres into the air, hung there for a split second, then cascaded over the far lip of the crater towards the sea. A peal of laughter rippled through our group. Emily let out a loud whoop.
Then another eruption happened, and another. The sun vanished below the horizon and dusk fell, making the great blasts of red fire, which thundered out of the earth every eight minutes or so, even more spectacular. We stayed on our perch for an hour, gawping and shaking our heads as the last of the daylight seeped away. Our guide Sergio, who had only just started taking groups up Stromboli, was excited to see his first double blast - two big eruptions occurring within seconds of each other.
We lingered for one final eruption and then Sergio shepherded us off the summit. But the excitement wasn't over just yet. Descending Stromboli is a lot more fun than climbing it. With its thick layer of volcanic dust, the southern slope of the mountain is like a gigantic sand dune, and it's easier to skid down on your heels than it is to walk. We switched on our headlamps, affixed masks to keep the dust at bay, and set off down the dark piste.
Less than an hour later we were back where we started, tired, hungry, exhilarated and very, very dusty. The solution to all that ailed us was delicious pizza and a glass of ice-cold lemon granita at La Lampara, a short walk from the square. I couldn't resist taking one last peek at the volcano, so the next morning I rented a kayak and set off to view the beast from a different angle. It took me half an hour to paddle around to the Sciara del Fuoco, or "stream of fire", where the crater drops down to the sea. I'd been warned to stay a long way out, and I soon realised why. Shortly after I arrived, Stromboli let out its mightiest bellow yet, and a shower of boiling-hot rocks came crashing down the sheer black slope, colliding with one other and spinning far out into the aquamarine water.
I took this as an omen, a sign that maybe it was time for me to leave the dragon in peace and be about my business. So I picked up my paddle, turned the kayak around and headed back to the village at decent rate of knots, leaving that magnificent thing roaring and snorting in my wake.
The flight Return direct flights from Abu Dhabi to Rome cost US$800 (Dh2,945) including taxes with Etihad (www.etihadairways.com) The boat The hydrofoil from Milazzo (a three-hour drive or train ride away from Palermo) to Stromboli with Ustica Lines (www.usticalines.it, 00 39 0923 873813) costs $62 (Dh ) return and takes up to three hours.Ustica also has a ferry service from Palermo during the summer The hotel La Sirenetta Park Hotel (www.lasirenetta.it; 00 39 090 986025). Double rooms start from $191 (Dh700), including breakfast and taxes.
The trek A tour of the volcano with Magmatrek (www.magmatrek.it; 00 39 090 9865768) costs $41 (Dh150).
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Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
RESULTS
6.30pm Handicap (TB) US$65,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
Winner Golden Goal, Pat Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer)
7.05pm Dubai Racing Club Classic Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (Turf) 2,410m
Winner: Walton Street, William Buick, Charlie Appleby.
7.40pm Dubai Stakes Group 3 (TB) $130,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner Switzerland, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar
8.15pm Singspiel Stakes Group 3 (TB) $163,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner Lord Giltters, Adrie de Vries, David O’Meara
8.50pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 (TB) $228,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner Military Law, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi.
9.25pm Al Fahidi Fort Group 2 (TB) $163,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner Land Of Legends, Frankie Dettori, Saeed bin Suroor
10pm Dubai Dash Listed Handicap (TB) $88,000 (T) 1,000m
Winner Equilateral, Frankie Dettori, Charles Hills.
French Touch
Carla Bruni
(Verve)
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAlmouneer%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202017%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dr%20Noha%20Khater%20and%20Rania%20Kadry%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EEgypt%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E120%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBootstrapped%2C%20with%20support%20from%20Insead%20and%20Egyptian%20government%2C%20seed%20round%20of%20%3Cbr%3E%243.6%20million%20led%20by%20Global%20Ventures%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The Sand Castle
Director: Matty Brown
Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea
Rating: 2.5/5
Other workplace saving schemes
- The UAE government announced a retirement savings plan for private and free zone sector employees in 2023.
- Dubai’s savings retirement scheme for foreign employees working in the emirate’s government and public sector came into effect in 2022.
- National Bonds unveiled a Golden Pension Scheme in 2022 to help private-sector foreign employees with their financial planning.
- In April 2021, Hayah Insurance unveiled a workplace savings plan to help UAE employees save for their retirement.
- Lunate, an Abu Dhabi-based investment manager, has launched a fund that will allow UAE private companies to offer employees investment returns on end-of-service benefits.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Almnssa
Started: August 2020
Founder: Areej Selmi
Based: Gaza
Sectors: Internet, e-commerce
Investments: Grants/private funding
Water waste
In the UAE’s arid climate, small shrubs, bushes and flower beds usually require about six litres of water per square metre, daily. That increases to 12 litres per square metre a day for small trees, and 300 litres for palm trees.
Horticulturists suggest the best time for watering is before 8am or after 6pm, when water won't be dried up by the sun.
A global report published by the Water Resources Institute in August, ranked the UAE 10th out of 164 nations where water supplies are most stretched.
The Emirates is the world’s third largest per capita water consumer after the US and Canada.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
SPECS
%3Cp%3EEngine%3A%20Supercharged%203.5-litre%20V6%0D%3Cbr%3EPower%3A%20400hp%0D%3Cbr%3ETorque%3A%20430Nm%0D%3Cbr%3EOn%20sale%3A%20Now%0D%3Cbr%3EPrice%3A%20From%20Dh450%2C000%0D%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Results
6.30pm: The Madjani Stakes (PA) Group 3 Dh175,000 (Dirt) 1,900m
Winner: Aatebat Al Khalediah, Fernando Jara (jockey), Ali Rashid Al Raihe (trainer).
7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,400m
Winner: Down On Da Bayou, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.
7.40pm: Maiden (TB) Dh165,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Dubai Avenue, Fernando Jara, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
8.15pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: My Catch, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
8.50pm: Dubai Creek Mile (TB) Listed Dh265,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Secret Ambition, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar.
9.25pm: Handicap (TB) Dh190,000 (D) 1,600m
Winner: Golden Goal, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
If you go
The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly direct to Nairobi, with fares starting from Dh1,695. The resort can be reached from Nairobi via a 35-minute flight from Wilson Airport or Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, or by road, which takes at least three hours.
The rooms
Rooms at Fairmont Mount Kenya range from Dh1,870 per night for a deluxe room to Dh11,000 per night for the William Holden Cottage.
The%20specs
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German intelligence warnings
- 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
- 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
- 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250
Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution
LA LIGA FIXTURES
Saturday (UAE kick-off times)
Leganes v Getafe (12am)
Levante v Alaves (4pm)
Real Madrid v Sevilla (7pm)
Osasuna v Valladolid (9.30pm)
Sunday
Eibar v Atletico Madrid (12am)
Mallorca v Valencia (3pm)
Real Betis v Real Sociedad (5pm)
Villarreal v Espanyol (7pm)
Athletic Bilbao v Celta Vigo (9.30pm)
Monday
Barcelona v Granada (12am)
What is 'Soft Power'?
Soft power was first mentioned in 1990 by former US Defence Secretary Joseph Nye.
He believed that there were alternative ways of cultivating support from other countries, instead of achieving goals using military strength.
Soft power is, at its root, the ability to convince other states to do what you want without force.
This is traditionally achieved by proving that you share morals and values.
RESULTS
Men – semi-finals
57kg – Tak Chuen Suen (MAC) beat Phuong Xuan Nguyen (VIE) 29-28; Almaz Sarsembekov (KAZ) beat Zakaria Eljamari (UAE) by points 30-27.
67kg – Mohammed Mardi (UAE) beat Huong The Nguyen (VIE) by points 30-27; Narin Wonglakhon (THA) v Mojtaba Taravati Aram (IRI) by points 29-28.
60kg – Yerkanat Ospan (KAZ) beat Amir Hosein Kaviani (IRI) 30-27; Long Doan Nguyen (VIE) beat Ibrahim Bilal (UAE) 29-28
63.5kg – Abil Galiyev (KAZ) beat Truong Cao Phat (VIE) 30-27; Nouredine Samir (UAE) beat Norapat Khundam (THA) RSC round 3.
71kg – Shaker Al Tekreeti (IRQ) beat Fawzi Baltagi (LBN) 30-27; Amine El Moatassime (UAE) beat Man Kongsib (THA) 29-28
81kg – Ilyass Hbibali (UAE) beat Alexandr Tsarikov (KAZ) 29-28; Khaled Tarraf (LBN) beat Mustafa Al Tekreeti (IRQ) 30-27
86kg – Ali Takaloo (IRI) beat Mohammed Al Qahtani (KSA) RSC round 1; Emil Umayev (KAZ) beat Ahmad Bahman (UAE) TKO round
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylturbo
Transmission: seven-speed DSG automatic
Power: 242bhp
Torque: 370Nm
Price: Dh136,814
The specs
Engine: 3-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 400hp
Torque: 475Nm
Transmission: 9-speed automatic
Price: From Dh215,900
On sale: Now
Killing of Qassem Suleimani
RESULT
Australia 3 (0) Honduras 1 (0)
Australia: Jedinak (53', 72' pen, 85' pen)
Honduras: Elis (90 4)
COMPANY PROFILE
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Total funding: Self funded
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The five pillars of Islam
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Sweet%20Tooth
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ABU%20DHABI'S%20KEY%20TOURISM%20GOALS%3A%20BY%20THE%20NUMBERS
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The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre flat-six
Torque: 450Nm at 6,100rpm
Transmission: 7-speed PDK auto or 6-speed manual
Fuel economy, combined: 13.8L/100km
On sale: Available to order now
Paatal Lok season two
Directors: Avinash Arun, Prosit Roy
Stars: Jaideep Ahlawat, Ishwak Singh, Lc Sekhose, Merenla Imsong
Rating: 4.5/5