Once, as I was fishing in a river above Franschhoek, a small town about an hour and a half from Cape Town, I had the sense that I was being watched. Indeed I was - by a tribe of baboons, perhaps hoping I would leave some of my lunch behind.
Baboons have a curiously nonchalant way of watching you, faintly contemptuous, but always wary, a very large male with very big teeth, to the fore. This day they stayed for about half an hour, before setting off along the riverbank foraging for roots, scorpions, wild fruits and frogs. In my bag I had a sandwich of wild rocket, goat's cheese and pesto, which they would have enjoyed.
Baboons eat almost anything: twice I have had a picnic stolen at Cape Point, where the baboons can be quite aggressive. The mountains around Franschhoek are obviously home to a more genteel class of primate: I couldn't have defended my sandwiches against a concerted rush by 14 baboons.
It's a strange feeling, but one I find increasingly gratifying, that there are special places in my life where I am instantly at home. Franschhoek is one of these. It was founded by French Huguenots in 1688, and given its name, French Corner, by the Dutch.
In fact, it is a valley, surrounded by spectacular and ever-changing mountains, and home to some beautiful fruit and wine estates, many of them with their lovely and original French names, such as La Cotte, Cabrière, Dieu Donné, Provence and La Motte.
As I approach over Hellshoogte (the Heights of Hell), the mountain pass from the direction of Cape Town, I always have a sense of coming to a paradise. I can imagine the Huguenots sensibly ending their travels here as they discovered a valley full of elephants and deciding that this was their own Eden, far from the conflicts of Europe. Here they would set out industriously to create a corner of France as they remembered and treasured it.
Over two centuries, the French language died out, but the place names, and the names of families and farms have remained. Now the whole town has been re-branded in French, to the bemusement of the locals, who speak Afrikaans. The local laundry, for example, is known as La Laundry, presumably because La Blanchisserie would have been a step too far. But at the end of Huguenot Street stands the Huguenot Memorial, with a museum devoted to the struggles and achievements of the first French settlers and the enduring justification for all this charming chamber-of-commerce francophilia.
In all my travels one of my favourite spots to linger is the front veranda of the Quartier Francais, a Relais et Chateaux hotel, on the main street. Relais et Chateaux it may be, but at first sight it is more a charming collection of cottages, loosely knitted together. A few months ago I was there at a literary festival and, sitting on the terrace facing the main street in the warm autumn sunshine, I thought that this was utter bliss, seized by the certainty that I was, fortuitously, in exactly the right place at the right time.
When the weather cools for a few months, as it does between May and August, there is always a wood fire on the back terrace and every bedroom, grouped around a small swimming pool, has its own fireplace, where a fire is lit in the evening. The Quartier Francais also has a delightful small cinema, which on Sunday evenings provides dinner and a movie, and this is a favourite with the locals, many of them "swallows", as the Brits who come with the summer and leave in the winter are known.
The little town, with its fine Cape Dutch houses and modest cottages, was lost in a deep and dusty rural sleep for most of the 20th century until it was rediscovered both by urban South Africans who wanted a quaint old village house, and by the wealthy - many from Britain and Germany - who wanted to practise gentlemanly farming.
The development in the past 20 years has been extraordinary, but the essential village atmosphere has not been lost, even as grand estates, stud farms and gated communities have sprung up all over the valley.
Along with this prosperity has come a squatter community on the edge of town and a rise in crime, but there is still a sense of tranquillity as the sun sets on the mountains all around and on the vineyards that reach up in all directions; there is a particular contentment when the harvest comes in and tractors pull trailers full of grapes through town.
The harvest festival has now become a big event, a celebration of the traditional folk music and dance of the local people, known in Afrikaans as langarm - long arm - and boeremusiek, the traditional Afrikaner farmers' music. It takes place in April at Solms Delta Estate. Bastille Day is also celebrated with berets, accordions and onions, without apparent embarrassment, and is a favourite outing for Cape Town's residents.
Apart from the epiphany of the landscape, one of the great attractions of Franschhoek is the food. This little place is now home to four or five of South Africa's top 10 restaurants. The food at the Quartier Francais is terrific, with an ambitious tasting menu, and some superb standard dishes. My particular favourite is a boned, stuffed partridge. I love the breakfast, too, with home-made granola and pastries, fresh fruit, omelettes and eggs Benedict.
Across the road is Reuben's, a restaurant that has often been voted in the top three in South Africa. Again there is something warm and essentially unpretentious about this place; like Margot Janse, the chef of the Quartier Francais, Reuben Riffel, the chef cum proprietor of Reuben's, has become a celebrity.
Both chefs supervise cookery classes and there is a storm of charcuterie- and cheese-making going on all over the valley. Particularly notable is Moreson, with its Bread and Wine restaurant, which specialises in charcuterie. Local people have been sent to Europe for training and work experience and this has clearly paid off.
There are several other fine restaurants, too, including La Petite Ferme up on the pass out of Franschhoek, where panhandling baboons can sometimes be seen; this place has a spectacular view back down the valley and is a favourite for lunch. Grande Provence is an estate with an elegant restaurant, an art gallery and a spectacular group of Cape Dutch buildings. The Owner's Cottage provides luxury accommodation.
There are guesthouses and B&Bs, all of them comfortable, a few even improbably elegant, around the valley; some are in the village itself, some on the surrounding estates.
Huge sums of money have flooded into the valley in recent years, but somehow the old Cape hospitality and atmosphere have been preserved even as celebrities such as Elton John have come to stay on estates or at the luxurious new La Residence, tucked away from the town.
The owners of La Residence also have a private game reserve up country not far from the Kruger National Park and some visitors combine a Cape stay with the authentic big-game experience. That said, the Cape now has its own game reserves within easy driving distance of Franschhoek.
Actually, the Western Cape has some wonderful public reserves that offer a sense of the wild and cheap, comfortable accommodation. It is also possible to enjoy these reserves as a day visitor for a modest fee.
One of my favourites is De Hoop, along a 25km stretch of the coast, not far from Bredasdorp, three hours from Cape Town and about one-and-a-half hours from Franschhoek. In the whale season - May to December - it is one of the best places to see the Southern Right Whale, which comes close to shore to mate and calve before setting off on its journey around the coast.
The accommodation in De Hoop has been updated and is both picturesque and well equipped. Cottages are sited around the reserve, which is home to native species such as the bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, as well as eland, grey rhebuck, baboon, yellow mongoose, caracal and the occasional leopard. Tortoises and snakes can often be seen crossing the roads. But a few words of advice: book well in advance.
The great advantage of Franschhoek is that it is close to Cape Town and the spectacular coastal journey that is the Garden Route; beaches, small towns, and spectacular day trips are within easy reach, with many options, including golf, beyond the next mountain. The seaside resorts of Hermanus, the Wilderness, Knysna and Arniston, are all worth a visit, as well as the towns of Somerset West and Stellenbosch.
As you leave Franschhoek over the pass that takes you out of the valley and eastwards, you sense the vast splendour of the countryside: it is Africa, yet strangely familiar to the European visitor, with its tidy farms and rows of fruit trees and vines. The passes through the protea-dotted mountains are awe-inspiring; this is the region of the aromatic fynbos, the unique Cape flora, of which the protea is the reigning monarch.
When I am back in Europe I think of these mountains, with their constantly changing colours, and cloud patterns sailing over them, and standing up to my waist in the ale-coloured Berg River flows down in a valley behind Franschhoek. It has now been dammed, creating a vast lake to supply Cape Town with water.
One day, way up above in the river, my son caught an improbably large rainbow, perhaps a refugee from the trout farm that was flooded as the dam filled. The dam has altered the landscape, but already it looks as though it was always there, perfectly enclosed by the mountains, incorrigibly wild.
Justin Cartwright's new novel, To Heaven by Water, is set partly in South Africa and will be published in July by Bloomsbury.
Company Profile
Company name: Hoopla
Date started: March 2023
Founder: Jacqueline Perrottet
Based: Dubai
Number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Investment required: $500,000
2024 Dubai Marathon Results
Women’s race:
1. Tigist Ketema (ETH) 2hrs 16min 7sec
2. Ruti Aga (ETH) 2:18:09
3. Dera Dida (ETH) 2:19:29
Men's race:
1. Addisu Gobena (ETH) 2:05:01
2. Lemi Dumicha (ETH) 2:05:20
3. DejeneMegersa (ETH) 2:05:42
Kill
Director: Nikhil Nagesh Bhat
Starring: Lakshya, Tanya Maniktala, Ashish Vidyarthi, Harsh Chhaya, Raghav Juyal
Rating: 4.5/5
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
TWISTERS
Director:+Lee+Isaac+Chung
Starring:+Glen+Powell,+Daisy+Edgar-Jones,+Anthony+Ramos
Rating:+2.5/5
Kill Bill Volume 1
Director: Quentin Tarantino
Stars: Uma Thurman, David Carradine and Michael Madsen
Rating: 4.5/5
Pakistanis at the ILT20
The new UAE league has been boosted this season by the arrival of five Pakistanis, who were not released to play last year.
Shaheen Afridi (Desert Vipers)
Set for at least four matches, having arrived from New Zealand where he captained Pakistan in a series loss.
Shadab Khan (Desert Vipers)
The leg-spin bowling allrounder missed the tour of New Zealand after injuring an ankle when stepping on a ball.
Azam Khan (Desert Vipers)
Powerhouse wicketkeeper played three games for Pakistan on tour in New Zealand. He was the first Pakistani recruited to the ILT20.
Mohammed Amir (Desert Vipers)
Has made himself unavailable for national duty, meaning he will be available for the entire ILT20 campaign.
Imad Wasim (Abu Dhabi Knight Riders)
The left-handed allrounder, 35, retired from international cricket in November and was subsequently recruited by the Knight Riders.
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
The five pillars of Islam
ESSENTIALS
The flights
Etihad (etihad.com) flies from Abu Dhabi to Mykonos, with a flight change to its partner airline Olympic Air in Athens. Return flights cost from Dh4,105 per person, including taxes.
Where to stay
The modern-art-filled Ambassador hotel (myconianambassador.gr) is 15 minutes outside Mykonos Town on a hillside 500 metres from the Platis Gialos Beach, with a bus into town every 30 minutes (a taxi costs €15 [Dh66]). The Nammos and Scorpios beach clubs are a 10- to 20-minute walk (or water-taxi ride) away. All 70 rooms have a large balcony, many with a Jacuzzi, and of the 15 suites, five have a plunge pool. There’s also a private eight-bedroom villa. Double rooms cost from €240 (Dh1,063) including breakfast, out of season, and from €595 (Dh2,636) in July/August.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
PAST 10 BRITISH GRAND PRIX WINNERS
2016 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2015 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2014 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP)
2013 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes-GP)
2012 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2011 - Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
2010 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2009 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2008 - Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
2007 - Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)
Honeymoonish
Director: Elie El Samaan
Starring: Nour Al Ghandour, Mahmoud Boushahri
Rating: 3/5
Director: Nag Ashwin
Starring: Prabhas, Saswata Chatterjee, Deepika Padukone, Amitabh Bachchan, Shobhana
Rating: ★★★★
MATCH INFO
Osasuna 1 Real Madrid 4
Osasuna: García (14')
Real Madrid: Isco (33'), Ramos (38'), Vázquez (84'), Jovic (90'+2)
Company profile
Company name: Fasset
Started: 2019
Founders: Mohammad Raafi Hossain, Daniel Ahmed
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech
Initial investment: $2.45 million
Current number of staff: 86
Investment stage: Pre-series B
Investors: Investcorp, Liberty City Ventures, Fatima Gobi Ventures, Primal Capital, Wealthwell Ventures, FHS Capital, VN2 Capital, local family offices
About Krews
Founder: Ahmed Al Qubaisi
Based: Abu Dhabi
Founded: January 2019
Number of employees: 10
Sector: Technology/Social media
Funding to date: Estimated $300,000 from Hub71 in-kind support
COMPANY PROFILE
Company name: Klipit
Started: 2022
Founders: Venkat Reddy, Mohammed Al Bulooki, Bilal Merchant, Asif Ahmed, Ovais Merchant
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: Digital receipts, finance, blockchain
Funding: $4 million
Investors: Privately/self-funded
The specs: 2018 Mercedes-AMG C63 S Cabriolet
Price, base: Dh429,090
Engine 4.0-litre twin-turbo V8
Transmission Seven-speed automatic
Power 510hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque 700Nm @ 1,750rpm
Fuel economy, combined 9.2L / 100km
10 tips for entry-level job seekers
- Have an up-to-date, professional LinkedIn profile. If you don’t have a LinkedIn account, set one up today. Avoid poor-quality profile pictures with distracting backgrounds. Include a professional summary and begin to grow your network.
- Keep track of the job trends in your sector through the news. Apply for job alerts at your dream organisations and the types of jobs you want – LinkedIn uses AI to share similar relevant jobs based on your selections.
- Double check that you’ve highlighted relevant skills on your resume and LinkedIn profile.
- For most entry-level jobs, your resume will first be filtered by an applicant tracking system for keywords. Look closely at the description of the job you are applying for and mirror the language as much as possible (while being honest and accurate about your skills and experience).
- Keep your CV professional and in a simple format – make sure you tailor your cover letter and application to the company and role.
- Go online and look for details on job specifications for your target position. Make a list of skills required and set yourself some learning goals to tick off all the necessary skills one by one.
- Don’t be afraid to reach outside your immediate friends and family to other acquaintances and let them know you are looking for new opportunities.
- Make sure you’ve set your LinkedIn profile to signal that you are “open to opportunities”. Also be sure to use LinkedIn to search for people who are still actively hiring by searching for those that have the headline “I’m hiring” or “We’re hiring” in their profile.
- Prepare for online interviews using mock interview tools. Even before landing interviews, it can be useful to start practising.
- Be professional and patient. Always be professional with whoever you are interacting with throughout your search process, this will be remembered. You need to be patient, dedicated and not give up on your search. Candidates need to make sure they are following up appropriately for roles they have applied.
Arda Atalay, head of Mena private sector at LinkedIn Talent Solutions, Rudy Bier, managing partner of Kinetic Business Solutions and Ben Kinerman Daltrey, co-founder of KinFitz
DRIVERS' CHAMPIONSHIP STANDINGS
1. Sebastian Vettel (Ferrari) 171 points
2. Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes-GP) 151
3. Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes-GP) 136
4. Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull Racing) 107
5. Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari) 83
6. Sergio Perez (Force India) 50
7. Max Verstappen (Red Bull Racing) 45
8. Esteban Ocon (Force India) 39
9. Carlos Sainz (Torro Rosso) 29
10. Felipe Massa (Williams) 22
COMPANY PROFILE
Company: Sideup
Started: 2019
Founder: Waleed Rashed
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Industry: technology, e-commerce
Funds raised so far: $1.2 million
Investors: Launch Africa VC, 500 Global, Riyadh Angels, Alex Angels, Al Tuwaijri Fund and Saudi angel investor Faisal Al Abdulsalam
Sarfira
Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad
Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal
Rating: 2/5
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Xpanceo
Started: 2018
Founders: Roman Axelrod, Valentyn Volkov
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: Smart contact lenses, augmented/virtual reality
Funding: $40 million
Investor: Opportunity Venture (Asia)
RESULT
Australia 3 (0) Honduras 1 (0)
Australia: Jedinak (53', 72' pen, 85' pen)
Honduras: Elis (90+4)
Match info
Champions League quarter-final, first leg
Liverpool v Porto, Tuesday, 11pm (UAE)
Matches can be watched on BeIN Sports
SPEC SHEET: APPLE IPHONE 14 PRO MAX
Display: 6.7" Super Retina XDR OLED, 2796 x 1290, 460ppi, 120Hz, 2000 nits max, HDR, True Tone, P3, always-on
Processor: A16 Bionic, 6-core CPU, 5-core GPU, 16-core Neural Engine
Memory: 6GB
Capacity: 128/256/512GB / 1TB
Platform: iOS 16
Main camera: Triple 48MP main (f/1.78) + 12MP ultra-wide (f/2.2) + 12MP telephoto (f/2.8), 6x optical, 15x digital, Photonic Engine, Deep Fusion, Smart HDR 4, Portrait Lighting
Main camera video: 4K @ 24/25/30/60fps, full-HD @ 25/30/60fps, HD @ 30fps, slo-mo @ 120/240fps, ProRes (4K) @ 30fps; night, time lapse, cinematic, action modes; Dolby Vision, 4K HDR
Front camera: 12MP TrueDepth (f/1.9), Photonic Engine, Deep Fusion, Smart HDR 4, Portrait Lighting; Animoji, Memoji
Front camera video: 4K @ 24/25/30/60fps, full-HD @ 25/30/60fps, slo-mo @ 120/240fps, ProRes (4K) @ 30fps; night, time lapse, cinematic, action modes; Dolby Vision, 4K HDR
Battery: 4323mAh, up to 29h video, 25h streaming video, 95h audio; fast charge to 50% in 30min; MagSafe, Qi wireless charging
Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth 5.3, NFC (Apple Pay)
Biometrics: Face ID
I/O: Lightning
Durability: IP68, dust/splash/water resistant up to 6m up to 30min
Cards: Dual eSIM / eSIM + eSIM (US models use eSIMs only)
Colours: Deep purple, gold, silver, space black
In the box: iPhone 14 Pro Max, USB-C-to-Lightning cable, one Apple sticker
Price: Dh4,699 / Dh5,099 / Dh5,949 / Dh6,799
My Cat Yugoslavia by Pajtim Statovci
Pushkin Press
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kinetic 7
Started: 2018
Founder: Rick Parish
Based: Abu Dhabi, UAE
Industry: Clean cooking
Funding: $10 million
Investors: Self-funded
WWE TLC results
Asuka won the SmackDown Women's title in a TLC triple threat with Becky Lynch and Charlotte Flair
Dean Ambrose won the Intercontinental title against Seth Rollins
Daniel Bryan retained the WWE World Heavyweight Championship against AJ Styles
Ronda Rousey retained the Raw Women's Championship against Nia Jax
Rey Mysterio beat Randy Orton in a chairs match
Finn Balor defeated Drew McIntyre
Natalya beat Ruby Riott in a tables match
Braun Strowman beat Baron Corbin in a TLC match
Sheamus and Cesaro retained the SmackDown Tag Titles against The Usos and New Day
R-Truth and Carmella won the Mixed Match Challenge by beating Jinder Mahal and Alicia Fox
SPEC SHEET: APPLE M3 MACBOOK AIR (13")
Processor: Apple M3, 8-core CPU, up to 10-core CPU, 16-core Neural Engine
Display: 13.6-inch Liquid Retina, 2560 x 1664, 224ppi, 500 nits, True Tone, wide colour
Memory: 8/16/24GB
Storage: 256/512GB / 1/2TB
I/O: Thunderbolt 3/USB-4 (2), 3.5mm audio, Touch ID
Connectivity: Wi-Fi 6E, Bluetooth 5.3
Battery: 52.6Wh lithium-polymer, up to 18 hours, MagSafe charging
Camera: 1080p FaceTime HD
Video: Support for Apple ProRes, HDR with Dolby Vision, HDR10
Audio: 4-speaker system, wide stereo, support for Dolby Atmos, Spatial Audio and dynamic head tracking (with AirPods)
Colours: Midnight, silver, space grey, starlight
In the box: MacBook Air, 30W/35W dual-port/70w power adapter, USB-C-to-MagSafe cable, 2 Apple stickers
Price: From Dh4,599
Confirmed bouts (more to be added)
Cory Sandhagen v Umar Nurmagomedov
Nick Diaz v Vicente Luque
Michael Chiesa v Tony Ferguson
Deiveson Figueiredo v Marlon Vera
Mackenzie Dern v Loopy Godinez
Tickets for the August 3 Fight Night, held in partnership with the Department of Culture and Tourism Abu Dhabi, went on sale earlier this month, through www.etihadarena.ae and www.ticketmaster.ae.
Results
Final: Iran beat Spain 6-3.
Play-off 3rd: UAE beat Russia 2-1 (in extra time).
Play-off 5th: Japan beat Egypt 7-2.
Play-off 7th: Italy beat Mexico 3-2.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Haltia.ai
Started: 2023
Co-founders: Arto Bendiken and Talal Thabet
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: AI
Number of employees: 41
Funding: About $1.7 million
Investors: Self, family and friends