Bulgaria’s significant Muslim population keeps its Ottoman roots well-tended, Robin Gauldie writes
In the capital of a country that – more than 20 years after the fall of the Soviet imperium – is still reinventing itself, it still came as a surprise to see, only a couple of hundred metres from the Sheraton Balkan, Sofia’s poshest hotel, the graceful minaret and three grey lead-sheathed domes of an age old mosque.
Perhaps I shouldn’t have been taken aback: Bulgaria was part of the Ottoman Empire for almost five centuries, and elements of its Islamic heritage crop up everywhere. On the Black Sea coast, I found the architecture of towns like Sozopol and Nessebar, where the balconies of old wooden houses overhang steep, narrow cobbled lanes, irresistibly reminiscent of the old quarters of Istanbul. Around 15 per cent of Bulgaria’s seven million people are Muslims – the highest proportion of any EU country. The Muslim population includes around 750,000 ethnic Turkish people, as well as around 200,000 Bulgarian Muslims who are descended from Bulgarians who found Islam some 500 years ago.
Built in 1576, Sofia’s Kadi Seyfullah Efendi Cami is a powerful reminder of Bulgaria’s Ottoman links. It is lovingly preserved by Sofia’s Muslim community. Within, its walls are embellished with Islamic calligraphy, and next to it is part of the eight-sided bath complex that surrounded it and gave the mosque its nickname: the Banya Bashi.
And it is the work of no less a builder than Kodja Mimar Sinan, the greatest architect of the Ottoman Empire’s golden age and the designer of two of the Islamic world’s most magnificent places of worship: the Suleimaniye Mosque, dominating the skyline of old Istanbul, and the Selimiye, in Edirne, which, according to his own autobiography, he regarded as his greatest achievement.
Sinan served three great Ottoman sultans – Suleiman the Magnificent, Selim II and Murad III – as a military engineer and architect of great religious buildings in a career that spanned almost 70 years. According to official sources, he was born in Kayseri in Anatolia in 1491. But Bulgaria claims him as its own. According to a plaque outside the Kadi Seyfullah Efendi Cami, he was born, not in Anatolia, but in the village of Shiroka Luka, in the Rodopi Mountains. This rugged territory, bordering Turkey and Greece, is Bulgaria’s Muslim heartland. I decided to find out more.
The road to the Rodopi Mountains took me first to Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second city where, after penetrating an outer ring of shabby, Cold War era apartment buildings and 21st-century construction sites, I discovered another historic mosque. The minaret of the Djumaya or Ulu Mosque is a landmark in Plovdiv’s charming historic centre, a 23-metre spire strikingly patterned with red and white diamonds. It soars above a solidly built, four-square mosque with massive stone walls that support nine great vaulted domes suspended above a light-filled, pale blue interior. Built during the reign of Sultan Murad II in the second half of the 14th century, it has twice been restored, after being damaged by earthquakes in the 18th and 19th centuries. More restoration is being carried out thanks to gifts from Turkish donors.
Plovdiv’s other great mosque has been less fortunate. Derelict since 1928, the Taskopru Mosque, built in the 16th century, was handed over to private ownership in the early 1990s after the fall of Bulgaria’s communist regime. Since then, it has been used as a bar and restaurant, outraging local Muslims. Ahmed Mersin, Plovdiv’s mufti, says it is “unbearable” that the mosque is no longer a place of worship – but its current owners want €600,000 (Dh2.9 million) to return it to Islamic ownership, and the office of the Mufti can only raise €300,000.
From Plovdiv, I headed into the mountains. The Rodopi range rises sharply from the plains on either side of the Maritsa River, and as I followed the steep, winding highway the temperature dropped from a toasty 30°C to just 16°C – only to rise again as I crested the hills and swooped down, through valleys surrounded by pine-covered slopes, to the little spa town of Devin, famous for its mineral springs and natural hot baths. It still has a sizeable Bulgarian Muslim community, and its mosque, though nothing like as grand as those in Sofia and Plovdiv, sits among neatly tended rose gardens and is clearly a social hub for older villagers as well as a place of worship.
After a swim in Devin’s famous mineral pool to get the kinks out of my back after the long drive, I took time out to seek out some of the Rodopi’s rich wildlife, guided by Vlado, a local wildlife expert, who whetted my appetite with a slide show of his. Bulgaria is said to be among the most biodiverse countries in western Europe, and the mountain forests and high meadows of the Rodopi are home to a myriad species of butterflies and wild flowers, birds, reptiles and Europe’s largest predator, the brown bear. The hill pastures in the valleys above Devin are also at the centre of a government-funded effort to build up breeding stocks of one of Europe’s oldest domestic breeds, the Karatchan horse. But after four moonlit hours in a cramped hide in the hills above Devin not a single bear showed up, though I did see chamois, roe deer, wild boar and foxes that same evening. “Sorry,” said Vlado. “Maybe you’ll see bears next time.”
In Skiroka Luka, an hour’s drive through the mountains from Devin, my quest for Sinan’s Bulgarian roots also ran out of luck. The village’s steep streets are lined with pretty wood and stone “Bulgarian Revival” houses built in the 19th century, and the local ethnographic museum stresses its Bulgarian heritage and has little to say about the region’s Ottoman past. The only possible connection with the great architect seemed to be the three graceful, arched bridges that cross the Shirokolushka River. According to official accounts, Sinan was the son of a stonemason, and his father’s apprentice. Later, as well as designing mosques, he built elegant bridges all over the Ottoman domain. If he really did come to Shiroka Luka, might he not have acquired some of his skills while working here? I like to think so.
In the western part of the Rodopi range, villages are thin on the ground. But heading eastward, past the starkly modern winter sports resort at Pamporovo, I found myself in more thickly settled country, where rolling hills are dotted with hundreds of tiny villages. Many seemed half-deserted. Others were no more than ghost towns. In the shadow of small village mosques many older men chatted and drank coffee. In many places, there was little sign of younger people. Most, I learnt, had left for Bulgaria’s big cities, or for Turkey, where job opportunities beckoned.
This part of the world is well off the beaten track. The few current guidebooks to Bulgaria hardly mention it, and most hikers and wildlife enthusiasts bypass it in favour of the more spectacular landscapes of the western Rodopi. You’ll search in vain for reviews of its towns and villages on sites like TripAdvisor. The few foreigners who make their way here are keen birders, hoping for a sight of the eagles and vultures which soar over the region’s limestone crags. But for those willing to take the rough with the smooth, it has its high points. In spring and early summer, pastures and river banks blaze with swathes of red, yellow, white and purples wild flowers. Although unaccustomed to foreign visitors, villagers welcome strangers – if you can overcome the not inconsiderable language barrier. That proved easier in towns like Madan, a thriving district capital, than in the sleepy surrounding villages. Most of Madan’s 6,000 people are Bulgarian Muslims, and its well-kept mosques are in sharp contrast to the sometimes dilapidated village mosques elsewhere. It’s a pleasant, green little place, surrounded by pine-covered hills.
I was tempted to carry on across the Turkish border to Edirne, to marvel at Sinan’s great Selimiye mosque. It would have been a fitting end to my journey. But border formalities in this part of the world are notoriously time-consuming. Instead, I turned back towards Sofia. The Selimiye – and the bears of the Rodopi – must wait for another visit.
weekend@thenational.ae
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Who's who in Yemen conflict
Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government
Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council
Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south
Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory
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ICC Awards for 2021
MEN
Cricketer of the Year – Shaheen Afridi (Pakistan)
T20 Cricketer of the Year – Mohammad Rizwan (Pakistan)
ODI Cricketer of the Year – Babar Azam (Pakistan)
Test Cricketer of the Year – Joe Root (England)
WOMEN
Cricketer of the Year – Smriti Mandhana (India)
ODI Cricketer of the Year – Lizelle Lee (South Africa)
T20 Cricketer of the Year – Tammy Beaumont (England)
Results for Stage 2
Stage 2 Yas Island to Abu Dhabi, 184 km, Road race
Overall leader: Primoz Roglic SLO (Team Jumbo - Visma)
Stage winners: 1. Fernando Gaviria COL (UAE Team Emirates) 2. Elia Viviani ITA (Deceuninck - Quick-Step) 3. Caleb Ewan AUS (Lotto - Soudal)
Small Victories: The True Story of Faith No More by Adrian Harte
Jawbone Press
Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.
FIGHT CARD
1. Featherweight 66kg
Ben Lucas (AUS) v Ibrahim Kendil (EGY)
2. Lightweight 70kg
Mohammed Kareem Aljnan (SYR) v Alphonse Besala (CMR)
3. Welterweight 77kg
Marcos Costa (BRA) v Abdelhakim Wahid (MAR)
4. Lightweight 70kg
Omar Ramadan (EGY) v Abdimitalipov Atabek (KGZ)
5. Featherweight 66kg
Ahmed Al Darmaki (UAE) v Kagimu Kigga (UGA)
6. Catchweight 85kg
Ibrahim El Sawi (EGY) v Iuri Fraga (BRA)
7. Featherweight 66kg
Yousef Al Husani (UAE) v Mohamed Allam (EGY)
8. Catchweight 73kg
Mostafa Radi (PAL) v Abdipatta Abdizhali (KGZ)
9. Featherweight 66kg
Jaures Dea (CMR) v Andre Pinheiro (BRA)
10. Catchweight 90kg
Tarek Suleiman (SYR) v Juscelino Ferreira (BRA)
LA LIGA FIXTURES
Thursday (All UAE kick-off times)
Sevilla v Real Betis (midnight)
Friday
Granada v Real Betis (9.30pm)
Valencia v Levante (midnight)
Saturday
Espanyol v Alaves (4pm)
Celta Vigo v Villarreal (7pm)
Leganes v Real Valladolid (9.30pm)
Mallorca v Barcelona (midnight)
Sunday
Atletic Bilbao v Atletico Madrid (4pm)
Real Madrid v Eibar (9.30pm)
Real Sociedad v Osasuna (midnight)
Silent Hill f
Publisher: Konami
Platforms: PlayStation 5, Xbox Series X/S, PC
Rating: 4.5/5
SCHEDULE FOR SHOW COURTS
Centre Court - from 4pm (UAE time)
Angelique Kerber (1) v Irina Falconi
Martin Klizan v Novak Djokovic (2)
Alexandr Dolgopolov v Roger Federer (3)
Court One - from 4pm
Milos Raonic (6) v Jan-Lennard Struff
Karolina Pliskova (3) v Evgeniya Rodina
Dominic Thiem (8) v Vasek Pospisil
Court Two - from 2.30pm
Juan Martin Del Potro (29) v Thanasi Kokkinakis
Agnieszka Radwanska (9) v Jelena Jankovic
Jeremy Chardy v Tomas Berdych (11)
Ons Jabeur v Svetlana Kuznetsova (7)
Tips for SMEs to cope
- Adapt your business model. Make changes that are future-proof to the new normal
- Make sure you have an online presence
- Open communication with suppliers, especially if they are international. Look for local suppliers to avoid delivery delays
- Open communication with customers to see how they are coping and be flexible about extending terms, etc
Courtesy: Craig Moore, founder and CEO of Beehive, which provides term finance and working capital finance to SMEs. Only SMEs that have been trading for two years are eligible for funding from Beehive.
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Lamsa
Founder: Badr Ward
Launched: 2014
Employees: 60
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: EdTech
Funding to date: $15 million
THE BIO:
Favourite holiday destination: Thailand. I go every year and I’m obsessed with the fitness camps there.
Favourite book: Born to Run by Christopher McDougall. It’s an amazing story about barefoot running.
Favourite film: A League of their Own. I used to love watching it in my granny’s house when I was seven.
Personal motto: Believe it and you can achieve it.
How will Gen Alpha invest?
Mark Chahwan, co-founder and chief executive of robo-advisory firm Sarwa, forecasts that Generation Alpha (born between 2010 and 2024) will start investing in their teenage years and therefore benefit from compound interest.
“Technology and education should be the main drivers to make this happen, whether it’s investing in a few clicks or their schools/parents stepping up their personal finance education skills,” he adds.
Mr Chahwan says younger generations have a higher capacity to take on risk, but for some their appetite can be more cautious because they are investing for the first time. “Schools still do not teach personal finance and stock market investing, so a lot of the learning journey can feel daunting and intimidating,” he says.
He advises millennials to not always start with an aggressive portfolio even if they can afford to take risks. “We always advise to work your way up to your risk capacity, that way you experience volatility and get used to it. Given the higher risk capacity for the younger generations, stocks are a favourite,” says Mr Chahwan.
Highlighting the role technology has played in encouraging millennials and Gen Z to invest, he says: “They were often excluded, but with lower account minimums ... a customer with $1,000 [Dh3,672] in their account has their money working for them just as hard as the portfolio of a high get-worth individual.”
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UNSC Elections 2022-23
Seats open:
- Two for Africa Group
- One for Asia-Pacific Group (traditionally Arab state or Tunisia)
- One for Latin America and Caribbean Group
- One for Eastern Europe Group
Countries so far running:
The President's Cake
Director: Hasan Hadi
Starring: Baneen Ahmad Nayyef, Waheed Thabet Khreibat, Sajad Mohamad Qasem
Rating: 4/5
More from Armen Sarkissian
THE CARD
2pm: Maiden Dh 60,000 (Dirt) 1,400m
2.30pm: Handicap Dh 76,000 (D) 1,400m
3pm: Handicap Dh 64,000 (D) 1,200m
3.30pm: Shadwell Farm Conditions Dh 100,000 (D) 1,000m
4pm: Maiden Dh 60,000 (D) 1,000m
4.30pm: Handicap 64,000 (D) 1,950m
RESULTS
Bantamweight
Victor Nunes (BRA) beat Siyovush Gulmamadov (TJK)
(Split decision)
Featherweight
Hussein Salim (IRQ) beat Shakhriyor Juraev (UZB)
(Round 1 submission, armbar)
Catchweight 80kg
Rashed Dawood (UAE) beat Otabek Kadirov (UZB)
(Round-1 submission, rear naked choke)
Lightweight
Ho Taek-oh (KOR) beat Ronald Girones (CUB)
(Round 3 submission, triangle choke)
Lightweight
Arthur Zaynukov (RUS) beat Damien Lapilus (FRA)
(Unanimous points)
Bantamweight
Vinicius de Oliveira (BRA) beat Furkatbek Yokubov (RUS)
(Round 1 TKO)
Featherweight
Movlid Khaybulaev (RUS) v Zaka Fatullazade (AZE)
(Round 1 rear naked choke)
Flyweight
Shannon Ross (TUR) beat Donovon Freelow (USA)
(Unanimous decision)
Lightweight
Dan Collins (GBR) beat Mohammad Yahya (UAE)
(Round 2 submission D’arce choke)
Catchweight 73kg
Martun Mezhulmyan (ARM) beat Islam Mamedov (RUS)
(Round 3 submission, kneebar)
Bantamweight world title
Xavier Alaoui (MAR) beat Jaures Dea (CAM)
(Unanimous points 48-46, 49-45, 49-45)
Flyweight world title
Manon Fiorot (FRA) v Gabriela Campo (ARG)
(Round 1 RSC)
RESULTS
5pm: Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Racing Festival Purebred Arabian Cup Conditions (PA) Dh 200,000 (Turf) 1,600m
Winner: Hameem, Adrie de Vries (jockey), Abdallah Al Hammadi (trainer)
5.30pm: Sheikha Fatima bint Mubarak Cup Conditions (PA) Dh 200,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: Winked, Connor Beasley, Abdallah Al Hammadi
6pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Cup Listed (TB) Dh 380,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: Boerhan, Ryan Curatolo, Nicholas Bachalard
6.30pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Group 3 (PA) Dh 500,000 (T) 1,600m
Winner: AF Alwajel, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel
7pm: Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan National Day Jewel Crown Group 1 (PA) Dh 5,000,000 (T) 2,200m
Winner: Messi, Pat Dobbs, Timo Keersmaekers
7.30pm: Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Racing Festival Handicap (PA) Dh 150,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Harrab, Ryan Curatolo, Jean de Roualle
8pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 100,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: AF Alareeq, Connor Beasley, Ahmed Al Mehairbi
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
A new relationship with the old country
Treaty of Friendship between the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and the United Arab Emirates
The United kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and the United Arab Emirates; Considering that the United Arab Emirates has assumed full responsibility as a sovereign and independent State; Determined that the long-standing and traditional relations of close friendship and cooperation between their peoples shall continue; Desiring to give expression to this intention in the form of a Treaty Friendship; Have agreed as follows:
ARTICLE 1 The relations between the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and the United Arab Emirates shall be governed by a spirit of close friendship. In recognition of this, the Contracting Parties, conscious of their common interest in the peace and stability of the region, shall: (a) consult together on matters of mutual concern in time of need; (b) settle all their disputes by peaceful means in conformity with the provisions of the Charter of the United Nations.
ARTICLE 2 The Contracting Parties shall encourage education, scientific and cultural cooperation between the two States in accordance with arrangements to be agreed. Such arrangements shall cover among other things: (a) the promotion of mutual understanding of their respective cultures, civilisations and languages, the promotion of contacts among professional bodies, universities and cultural institutions; (c) the encouragement of technical, scientific and cultural exchanges.
ARTICLE 3 The Contracting Parties shall maintain the close relationship already existing between them in the field of trade and commerce. Representatives of the Contracting Parties shall meet from time to time to consider means by which such relations can be further developed and strengthened, including the possibility of concluding treaties or agreements on matters of mutual concern.
ARTICLE 4 This Treaty shall enter into force on today’s date and shall remain in force for a period of ten years. Unless twelve months before the expiry of the said period of ten years either Contracting Party shall have given notice to the other of its intention to terminate the Treaty, this Treaty shall remain in force thereafter until the expiry of twelve months from the date on which notice of such intention is given.
IN WITNESS WHEREOF the undersigned have signed this Treaty.
DONE in duplicate at Dubai the second day of December 1971AD, corresponding to the fifteenth day of Shawwal 1391H, in the English and Arabic languages, both texts being equally authoritative.
Signed
Geoffrey Arthur Sheikh Zayed
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What is graphene?
Graphene is extracted from graphite and is made up of pure carbon.
It is 200 times more resistant than steel and five times lighter than aluminum.
It conducts electricity better than any other material at room temperature.
It is thought that graphene could boost the useful life of batteries by 10 per cent.
Graphene can also detect cancer cells in the early stages of the disease.
The material was first discovered when Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov were 'playing' with graphite at the University of Manchester in 2004.
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
The specs
Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors
Power: Combined output 920hp
Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic
Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km
On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025
Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
