The eight best looks from the resort 2021 collections: from Erdem to Zimmerman
While the haute couture collections have been stealing the show, another, quieter fashion event has also been taking place
While all eyes have been on the first digital Paris haute couture presentations, resort collections are also being unveiled.
Aimed at the types who winter on yachts, hence the interchangeable name of resort and/or cruise, these collections are traditionally light but chic.
As with most things this year, the 2021 resort collection has been created under the duress of Covid-19, as is evident in the smaller than normal offerings.
But, as the saying goes, the show must go on.
Find out more about the inspiration for the collections below, and scroll through the gallery above to see our fashion ed's pick of the eight best looks.
Erdem delivered its resort collection by way of a photo shoot set in a forest outside London. Leaning on the dual influences of the 1960s and the Regency era, the resulting array of signature florals arrived as shorn-off mini dresses with bucket hats, flowing "hippy" kaftans (with ruffled edges) and floor-length empire-waist dresses. Pretty, feminine and romantic, Erdem was fortunate to be able to take delivery of the fabrics before shutdowns took place in the UK.
Proving the endless ingenuity of designers in these trying times, Anderson created his collection himself, in his studio, from whatever cloth was to hand.
Photographing the pieces on mannequins, the designer then sent the resulting images to editors, buyers and clients, with little swatches of fabric and jaunty notes that read: “Keep looking up”. The result is a charmingly upbeat collection of frock coats in faded chintz and laser-cut trousers under deconstructed waistcoats.
Pom poms trim jumpers and dress hems, and jackets and shorts are pieced from what look like old army surplus fabrics.
With oval, spiral-patterned mats in lieu of a head on the mannequins, the best piece was a sunburst dress of yellow and burgundy, with enormous sleeves that trailed to the ground (see that in the gallery above).
As one of the labels that kicked off the oversized prairie dress revival, Molly Goddard stayed true to familiar turf for resort, but folded in some smocking as well. Whole oh-so-London muddy browns, worn with huge clumpy shoes, dominated. The best look was a vibrant pop of neon pink with a burgundy red ribbon (see that in the gallery above).
Jil Sander its all about slick tailoring, and the resort collection built on that ethos with pleated trousers and neat mid-calf skirts in deep burgundy wool – a colour that turned up multiple times. Gleaming oxblood coats were worn with heavy ankle boots, and paper-bag shorts were the colour of clotted cream. Another micro trend also appeared in the Moroccan babouche-inspired slippers at both Jil Sander and Valentino.
The Max Mara resort show was meant to have taken place in a palace in Russia, but due to Covid-19, was cancelled. Instead, a shadow of that grandeur lingered, in gold brocade flourishes over extra wide trousers and faded lace trimmed dresses, all worn under the company's classic slouchy coats. It was an elegant reminder of what might have been.
Given the absolute splendour of its haute couture collection, one could have forgiven Giambattista Valli for churning out copycats for its resort line. But such is the resourcefulness of this house, instead it offered a sublimely pretty resort wardrobe.
Tiny flouncy dresses were covered in flowers, while washed denim arrived decorated with patterns woven into the cloth. Longer dresses had nipped waists and more florals, while the best look was an off the shoulder gown that echoed the style of Princess Diana.
For anyone in need of a boost, head to Zimmerman, whose resort collection is wonderfully optimistic – tiny skater skirt dresses in lavish prints, long dresses with cute shoulder ruffles and, best of all, a striped dungaree dress. Just adorable.
Valentino combined it’s men's and women's collections, with images shot by creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, at his own home. Filled with the relaxed silhouettes that he does so well (as striking in crisp whites as in scrolling patterns), the miracle of this collection isn’t so much the clothes, but that they exist at all, given the recent restrictions caused by the pandemic.
Published: July 10, 2020 09:11 AM