F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection. Courtesy Level Shoes
F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection. Courtesy Level Shoes
F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection. Courtesy Level Shoes
F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection. Courtesy Level Shoes

F_WD: Stylish, vegan, eco-friendly footwear that puts the planet first


Selina Denman
  • English
  • Arabic

Raphael Young is worried. For the past couple of years, the celebrated shoe designer has channelled his creative talent into raising awareness of sustainability, pollution and climate change, developing eco-friendly footwear under his activist streetwear label F_WD. But the pandemic has brought a new threat to the fore.

The future can only be green, or we won't have one

"I am very concerned that this pandemic will bring about another kind of pollution, with single-use masks and gloves," he says. "I witness a lot of incivility, with masks being thrown like paper on the streets. It is really important that countries like China, for example, one of the main mask manufacturers in the world, integrate the issue of sustainability.

"My hope is that they will soon develop masks that are more respectful of the environment, while keeping all their protective qualities. The one, more positive, point of the pandemic is that people have travelled and consumed less, giving some well-needed rest to our planet."

Turning point

While the Seoul-born designer has been interested in the idea of sustainable design for many years, the 2015 Paris Climate Change Conference, COP21, represented a turning point for him. “I am sensible to my environment,” he says. “I feel involved and concerned about how fast our planet is changing and is harmed by our human activities. Sustainability is the future of fashion and of everything in general. The future can only be green, or we won’t have one.”

Designer Raphael Young. Courtesy Level Shoes
Designer Raphael Young. Courtesy Level Shoes

Young hails from solid shoemaking stock. He is the nephew and heir of Alexandre Narcy, who set up the Yves Saint Laurent shoe studio in the 1960s and is widely regarded as one of the leading bottiers of the 20th century. It was from his uncle that Young learnt the importance of craft and structure, and despite doing a stint in the French Navy and going on to dabble in engineering and physics, he eventually found himself following in Narcy's footsteps.

From Saint Laurent to activist streetwear

Coming full circle, Young started out apprenticing under Yves Saint Laurent, and worked at other French and Italian couture studios before launching his eponymous label in 2009, which has been donned by the likes of Beyonce, Lady Gaga and Rihanna. In 2011, he moved to New York to steer the creative direction of Calvin Klein Collection accessories, and then in 2013, moved again, to Milan.

"Despite my love for New York and my impossible attraction to the city's magnetic energy, I felt the need to move closer to the heart of shoemaking artistry: Italy," he says.

Taking inspiration from Plato, Le Corbusier, music, architecture, product design and myriad other sources, Young has since served as creative director for popular brands such as Off-White, Jil Sander, Paco Rabanne and Fendi, and is currently a creative consultant for Tod’s Men and Redemption. But it is his work at the creative helm of F_WD, a collaboration with the Onward Luxury Group, that has the potential to make the most impact.

All F_WD shoes are vegan, cruelty-free and environmentally friendly. They are made using polyesters, lining and laces crafted from recycled plastic bottles and, for the past couple of seasons, the brand has introduced eco-sustainable soles containing recycled rubber and vegetable-based dyes.

“The eco-fake leather we use is truly innovative,” Young says. “It is bio-based, meaning that it is produced using polyurethane made of renewable sources like corn, replacing petroleum products. Our material is water-based, meaning there is no use of toxic solvents. It is safer for the consumer, but also for the people producing it and making our shoes.”

A rain boot from F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 women's collection. Courtesy Level Shoes
A rain boot from F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 women's collection. Courtesy Level Shoes

Sold in the UAE at Level Shoes in The Dubai Mall and online at Levelshoes.com, F_WD’s products are 100 per cent vegan, are made from 20 to 25 per cent recycled and recyclable materials, and are 2 to 3 per cent biodegradable. The aim is to create shoes that are 50 per cent biodegradable in the near future and then, ultimately, completely biodegradable.

“Today, we are able to create totally biodegradable uppers, but we are not able yet to produce a fully biodegradable sole,” Young explains. “We can do biodegradable plastics, as Australian scientists have created plastics with the use of bacteria. The challenge is to be able to keep the technical qualities of a sole, with regards to flexibility and shock absorption.

“But I think we are not too far from achieving this. It all depends on how willing sole-makers are to invest in research and innovation.”

Noble materials?

This, Young says, is the key challenge when it comes to creating sustainable shoes: a lack of investment by some suppliers, including sole producers, in the development of new and eco-friendly solutions. This creates a lack of choice for designers when it comes to materials, textures and colours, and ultimately damages the sustainable design cause.

"Our choices are a lot more restrained in that way, but F_WD is showing that we can overcome this lack of choice and still make exciting and vibrant collections. I also strive to create timeless products that will endure seasons, to elongate the product's life cycle. That is also part of being sustainable."

Another obstacle is perceptions within the luxury industry of what constitutes a "noble material". The term has traditionally referred to expensive and rare materials such as fur, leather and exotic skins, and until this mindset shifts, sustainability will struggle to enter the mainstream. "Most big names in the fashion industry sell very exclusive products, which means using exclusive and expensive materials," Young points out.

“Luxury brands sell tradition; they use noble materials. Selling sustainable products means selling products that are not made with ‘noble’ materials, even if I consider that green materials are way more noble than any real leather or fur.”

F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection. Courtesy Level Shoes lx15 OCT fwd AW collection 1 Courtesy Level Shoes
F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection. Courtesy Level Shoes lx15 OCT fwd AW collection 1 Courtesy Level Shoes

While the materials used for the footwear do not directly shape the designs, they do play into a wider concept, which Young refers to as "organic" design – shapes that "are bio and organic, reminiscent of shapes that blend into nature".

The message is clear

Elevating consumer consciousness when it comes to sustainability is fundamental, which is why the messaging on Young's designs is purposefully and unapologetically front and centre. A pair of black knee-high rain boots crafted from recycled rubber has the phrase "do you recycle?" in bold capital letters up the side, while the words "hybrid", "eco-logic solution", "waste", pollution-proof" and "support our cause" adorn trainers in the both the men's and women's collections.

The XP3 Boxter from F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection for men. Courtesy Level Shoes
The XP3 Boxter from F_WD's autumn/winter 2020 collection for men. Courtesy Level Shoes

A play on the words "warning" and "warming" appears on the backs of some designs, in brightly coloured block capitals, while an extended definition of the word "recycling" appears on a pair of thick-soled court shoes, including the warning that "plastic pollution is one of the greatest threats to ocean-health worldwide".

I want to open the way to a new way to create fashion. F_WD should not be an exception on the market

If Young's creations are anything to go by, the time for subtle messaging around the theme of sustainability is over. F_WD makes its intentions and values loud and clear from the outset. "The messages on my designs function to awaken consciousness on the need for sustainability. The second function is that when applying literal messages on a product, it helps to make the product a conversation opener with the public," explains Young.

"We are a new brand and we have purposely used our own products to support a message of sustainability and raise consciousness on plastic pollution and climate change issues."

The designer may be committed to the sustainability cause, but he is also realistic about all the work that still needs to be done. Pricing can be an issue, as recycled materials still cost more than their non-recycled counterparts, meaning that the cost of creating sustainable footwear and fashion is generally higher than usual.

The sourcing of certain materials can also be difficult, as they require higher minimum orders. "There should be a lot more investment in research and development for green solutions," Young says.

But, ultimately, he hopes F_WD will be a trailblazer. "I want to open the way to a new way to create fashion. F_WD should not be an exception on the market. The entire fashion industry needs to embrace this consciousness and change their ways.

"My ultimate mission is to open the way to design that is virtuous."

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Juliet, Naked
Dir: Jesse Peretz
Starring: Chris O'Dowd, Rose Byrne, Ethan Hawke​​​​​​​
​​​​​​​Two stars

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Revibe%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202022%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Hamza%20Iraqui%20and%20Abdessamad%20Ben%20Zakour%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20UAE%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Refurbished%20electronics%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunds%20raised%20so%20far%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%2410m%20%0D%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFlat6Labs%2C%20Resonance%20and%20various%20others%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A

Name: Brendalle Belaza

From: Crossing Rubber, Philippines

Arrived in the UAE: 2007

Favourite place in Abu Dhabi: NYUAD campus

Favourite photography style: Street photography

Favourite book: Harry Potter

Pad Man

Dir: R Balki

Starring: Akshay Kumar, Sonam Kapoor, Radhika Apte

Three-and-a-half stars

Other ways to buy used products in the UAE

UAE insurance firm Al Wathba National Insurance Company (AWNIC) last year launched an e-commerce website with a facility enabling users to buy car wrecks.

Bidders and potential buyers register on the online salvage car auction portal to view vehicles, review condition reports, or arrange physical surveys, and then start bidding for motors they plan to restore or harvest for parts.

Physical salvage car auctions are a common method for insurers around the world to move on heavily damaged vehicles, but AWNIC is one of the few UAE insurers to offer such services online.

For cars and less sizeable items such as bicycles and furniture, Dubizzle is arguably the best-known marketplace for pre-loved.

Founded in 2005, in recent years it has been joined by a plethora of Facebook community pages for shifting used goods, including Abu Dhabi Marketplace, Flea Market UAE and Arabian Ranches Souq Market while sites such as The Luxury Closet and Riot deal largely in second-hand fashion.

At the high-end of the pre-used spectrum, resellers such as Timepiece360.ae, WatchBox Middle East and Watches Market Dubai deal in authenticated second-hand luxury timepieces from brands such as Rolex, Hublot and Tag Heuer, with a warranty.

ELIO

Starring: Yonas Kibreab, Zoe Saldana, Brad Garrett

Directors: Madeline Sharafian, Domee Shi, Adrian Molina

Rating: 4/5

What are the influencer academy modules?
  1. Mastery of audio-visual content creation. 
  2. Cinematography, shots and movement.
  3. All aspects of post-production.
  4. Emerging technologies and VFX with AI and CGI.
  5. Understanding of marketing objectives and audience engagement.
  6. Tourism industry knowledge.
  7. Professional ethics.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
POSSIBLE ENGLAND EURO 2020 SQUAD

Goalkeepers: Jordan Pickford, Nick Pope, Dean Henderson.
Defenders: Trent Alexander-Arnold, Kieran Trippier, Joe Gomez, John Stones, Harry Maguire, Tyrone Mings, Ben Chilwell, Fabian Delph.
Midfielders: Declan Rice, Harry Winks, Jordan Henderson, Ross Barkley, Mason Mount, Alex Oxlade-Chamberlain.
Forwards: Harry Kane, Raheem Sterling, Marcus Rashford, Jadon Sancho, Tammy Abraham, Callum Hudson-Odoi.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
While you're here
Why does a queen bee feast only on royal jelly?

Some facts about bees:

The queen bee eats only royal jelly, an extraordinary food created by worker bees so she lives much longer

The life cycle of a worker bee is from 40-60 days

A queen bee lives for 3-5 years

This allows her to lay millions of eggs and allows the continuity of the bee colony

About 20,000 honey bees and one queen populate each hive

Honey is packed with vital vitamins, minerals, enzymes, water and anti-oxidants.

Apart from honey, five other products are royal jelly, the special food bees feed their queen 

Pollen is their protein source, a super food that is nutritious, rich in amino acids

Beewax is used to construct the combs. Due to its anti-fungal, anti-bacterial elements, it is used in skin treatments

Propolis, a resin-like material produced by bees is used to make hives. It has natural antibiotic qualities so works to sterilize hive,  protects from disease, keeps their home free from germs. Also used to treat sores, infection, warts

Bee venom is used by bees to protect themselves. Has anti-inflammatory properties, sometimes used to relieve conditions such as rheumatoid arthritis, nerve and muscle pain

Honey, royal jelly, pollen have health enhancing qualities

The other three products are used for therapeutic purposes

Is beekeeping dangerous?

As long as you deal with bees gently, you will be safe, says Mohammed Al Najeh, who has worked with bees since he was a boy.

“The biggest mistake people make is they panic when they see a bee. They are small but smart creatures. If you move your hand quickly to hit the bees, this is an aggressive action and bees will defend themselves. They can sense the adrenalin in our body. But if we are calm, they are move away.”

 

 

How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
  1. Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
  2. Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
  3. Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
  4. Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
  5. Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
  6. The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
  7. Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269

*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year

Ant-Man and the Wasp

Director: Peyton Reed

Starring: Paul Rudd, Evangeline Lilly, Michael Douglas

Three stars

If you go

The flights

There are direct flights from Dubai to Sofia with FlyDubai (www.flydubai.com) and Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com), from Dh1,164 and Dh822 return including taxes, respectively.

The trip

Plovdiv is 150km from Sofia, with an hourly bus service taking around 2 hours and costing $16 (Dh58). The Rhodopes can be reached from Sofia in between 2-4hours.

The trip was organised by Bulguides (www.bulguides.com), which organises guided trips throughout Bulgaria. Guiding, accommodation, food and transfers from Plovdiv to the mountains and back costs around 170 USD for a four-day, three-night trip.