The best watches of 2024 and horology trends for the new year

Familiar faces Rolex and Omega led the way, but what does the future hold for covetable timepieces?

The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection. Photo: Patek Philippe

In 2024, the luxury watch market balanced innovation and heritage, delivering timepieces that not only redefined the collector’s landscape but also set new benchmarks for the future.

This year saw marquee brands explore bold materials, refined aesthetics and intricate engineering. Six standout releases showcased the industry’s ingenuity and hinted at the revolutionary paths the luxury watch sector might tread in 2025.

Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon

Richard Mille pushed the limits of engineering with the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon, crafted for tennis great Rafael Nadal. Built from TPT carbon, this featherlight watch, which weighs 30g (11.5g without its strap), is designed to withstand a g-force of 14,000 – an engineering feat unprecedented in horology. The flying tourbillon complication, often reserved for collectors of the most refined tastes, is encased in a futuristic aerodynamic design. Collectors prize this watch not only for its aesthetic appeal but also for its ground-breaking material science. It’s not just a timepiece, it’s a statement of technological ambition, perfectly blending performance and prestige.

Omega Speedmaster FOIS 2024 Edition

The Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOIS) 2024 Edition pays homage to the brand’s historic relationship with space exploration. While it retains the timeless aesthetic of the 1962 model – polished steel case, vintage-inspired hands and a striking black dial – it incorporates cutting-edge upgrades, including anti-magnetic materials and enhanced movement efficiency.

This model bridges the past and the future, making it a must-have for collectors who appreciate historical authenticity coupled with modern functionality. For purists and innovators alike, the FOIS 2024 Edition stands as a timeless connection to Omega’s spacefaring legacy.

Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold

The Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose gold with a slate ombre bezel. Photo: Rolex

Rolex continues to redefine luxury with the Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold, now featuring a mesmerising ombre dial that transitions from deep black at its centre to soft grey at the edges. Paired with the President bracelet, this design represents the perfect synthesis of modern artistry and timeless elegance.

Collectors and professionals alike are drawn to this edition for its blend of power and sophistication. The ombre dial signals a new direction in dial craftsmanship, proving once again why the Day-Date remains the ultimate symbol of status and taste.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic redefines travel-ready timepieces. Housed in a 42mm stainless steel case, its world timer complication, dual time zone display and power reserve indicator are laid out on a gradient blue dial that exudes contemporary elegance.

Unlike traditional travel watches, the Polaris Geographic merges technical utility with aesthetic appeal, making it the go-to companion for globetrotters who refuse to compromise on style. Jaeger-LeCoultre once again cements its reputation for delivering understated brilliance.

Patek Philippe Cubitus

Patek Philippe broke tradition in 2024 with the bold introduction of the Cubitus, a 45mm model featuring sharp angular lines and a two-tone case. The minimalist blue dial, punctuated by rose gold accents, creates an architectural elegance that redefines contemporary watch design.

For collectors seeking innovation without sacrificing the timeless precision of Patek Philippe, the Cubitus is a revelation. It challenges conventions, embodying the spirit of modernity while honouring the brand’s rich heritage.

Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02

The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 seamlessly blends the elegance of 1930s Art Deco with modern horological advancements. Its 41mm rose gold case features a minimalist dial punctuated by geometric accents, while the automatic movement ensures practicality for daily wear. Limited to just 250 pieces, this watch epitomizes exclusivity and craftsmanship.

Collectors will appreciate the [RE]Master02 as a timepiece that celebrates both heritage and forward-thinking design, making it a definitive statement of timelessness.

Looking to 2025 and the future of luxury watches

The innovations of the year have set the stage for a transformative 2025, where we can anticipate bold experimentation will dominate. Expect sharper geometries, vibrant colour palettes and the ingenious use of multi-material constructions, blending metals, ceramics, and advanced composites. Sustainability should emerge as a cornerstone, with circular manufacturing and eco-certified designs reshaping perceptions of luxury.

Younger collectors, particularly in Asia and the Middle East, will play a part in driving demand for exclusivity and individuality, encouraging brands to pivot toward smaller, highly curated collections. The growing influence of advanced materials, such as silicon components and anti-magnetic nanomaterials, will quietly enhance precision and durability.

Luxury watches are no longer mere instruments of timekeeping – they are evolving into symbols of identity, artistry, and technological mastery. As we step into 2025, these innovations promise to redefine not just what we wear on our wrists, but the very essence of modern craftsmanship.