• Metallic dress by British designer Sarah Burton from the Alexander McQueen pre-autumn/winter 2022 collection. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    Metallic dress by British designer Sarah Burton from the Alexander McQueen pre-autumn/winter 2022 collection. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • A Burton creation from the autumn/winter 2019-2020 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Reuters
    A Burton creation from the autumn/winter 2019-2020 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Reuters
  • For autumn/winter 2022, psychedelic hues were lifted from pictures of actual mushrooms. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    For autumn/winter 2022, psychedelic hues were lifted from pictures of actual mushrooms. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • A sky-inspired look from the spring/summer 2022 collection. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    A sky-inspired look from the spring/summer 2022 collection. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • A black and metallic Burton look from the spring/summer 2022 collection in London. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    A black and metallic Burton look from the spring/summer 2022 collection in London. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • As part of her Renaissance Tour, Beyonce wears Alexander McQueen. Photo: Beyonce / Instagram
    As part of her Renaissance Tour, Beyonce wears Alexander McQueen. Photo: Beyonce / Instagram
  • An evening gown with an exaggerated neckline from autumn/winter 2023. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    An evening gown with an exaggerated neckline from autumn/winter 2023. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • Backstage at Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2023 show. Photo: Ruby Pluhar
    Backstage at Alexander McQueen’s spring/summer 2023 show. Photo: Ruby Pluhar
  • Stranger Things actress Sadie Sink wearing McQueen. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    Stranger Things actress Sadie Sink wearing McQueen. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • Whitework embroidery on a slashed bodice and a calico tulle skirt from spring/summer 2023. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    Whitework embroidery on a slashed bodice and a calico tulle skirt from spring/summer 2023. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • Sarah Burton arrives for the British Fashion Awards in 2011. AP
    Sarah Burton arrives for the British Fashion Awards in 2011. AP

Sarah Burton calls role at Alexander McQueen 'treasured time' as she preps for last show


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Sarah Burton is departing the label Alexander McQueen after more than two decades, its parent company Kering announced on Monday.

Having first worked at McQueen as an intern while still studying at Central Saint Martins, Burton returned after graduating and quickly became the right hand to the brand's founder Lee McQueen. She was named head of womenswear just two years later.

Having worked alongside founder Lee McQueen so closely before his death in 2010, Burton has a unique understanding that has enabled her to fuse his vision with her own, and allow the house to seamlessly evolve.

Following McQueen's death, she was announced as successor and has led the house ever since.

Royal connections

Burton created the Princess of Wales' wedding dress. AP
Burton created the Princess of Wales' wedding dress. AP

In 2011, Burton created the wedding dress for Catherine, Princess of Wales. It was inspired by the gown worn by Princess Grace of Monaco, and was covered in lace handmade by the Royal School of Needlework in Hampton Court Palace. In 2012, Burton was awarded the Order of the British Empire (OBE) the following year for services to fashion.

Burton has remained one of Kate's favourite designers since. The Princess of Wales wore McQueen during Queen Elizabeth II's platinum jubilee celebrations, donning a classic white coat dress by the label, as well as for the coronation of King Charles III.

Sartorial splendour

Despite having taken over the label under difficult circumstances, Burton brought her own vision to McQueen, mixing glamour with subversion, and was one of the pioneers of blending full-skirted feminine looks with heavy-soled masculine boots.

Corseting, leather and volume have been a recurring theme through her 13-year tenure, as Burton explored femininity in the modern world, while leaning into heritage and employing traditionally female-led techniques.

Sarah Burton's autumn/winter 2019-2020 women's ready-to-wear collection show for Alexander McQueen. Reuters
Sarah Burton's autumn/winter 2019-2020 women's ready-to-wear collection show for Alexander McQueen. Reuters

An upcoming show this month, during Paris Fashion Week, will be Burton’s last at the house and closes the door on a distinct chapter.

'Indelible mark'

Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive of Kering, said of Burton's tenure: “I am immensely grateful to Sarah, and I want to personally thank her for her work over the past two decades, first alongside Lee Alexander McQueen, where her role was instrumental to his success, and then as creative director since 2010.

“Through her own experience, sensitivity and talent, Sarah continued to evolve the artistic expression of this iconic house. She kept and continued Lee’s heritage, attention to detail and unique vision, while adding her own personal, highly creative touch.”

Gianfilippo Testa, chief executive of Alexander McQueen, said: “We would like to express our immense gratitude to Sarah for writing such an important chapter in the history of the Alexander McQueen House. Her contribution will leave an indelible mark.”

Speaking of her departure, Burton said: “I am so proud of everything I've done and of my incredible team at Alexander McQueen. They are my family, and this has been my home for the past 26 years. I want to thank Francois-Henri Pinault for believing in me and offering me this amazing opportunity.

“Above all I want to thank Lee Alexander McQueen. He taught me so much and I am eternally grateful to him. I am looking forward to the future and my next chapter and will always carry this treasured time with me.”

Countries recognising Palestine

France, UK, Canada, Australia, Portugal, Belgium, Malta, Luxembourg, San Marino and Andorra

 

MATCH INFO

Asian Champions League, last 16, first leg:

Al Ain 2 Al Duhail 4

Second leg:

Tuesday, Abdullah bin Khalifa Stadium, Doha. Kick off 7.30pm

Ain Dubai in numbers

126: The length in metres of the legs supporting the structure

1 football pitch: The length of each permanent spoke is longer than a professional soccer pitch

16 A380 Airbuses: The equivalent weight of the wheel rim.

9,000 tonnes: The amount of steel used to construct the project.

5 tonnes: The weight of each permanent spoke that is holding the wheel rim in place

192: The amount of cable wires used to create the wheel. They measure a distance of 2,4000km in total, the equivalent of the distance between Dubai and Cairo.

The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

Picture of Joumblatt and Hariri breaking bread sets Twitter alight

Mr Joumblatt’s pessimism regarding the Lebanese political situation didn’t stop him from enjoying a cheerful dinner on Tuesday with several politicians including Mr Hariri.

Caretaker Culture Minister Ghattas Khoury tweeted a picture of the group sitting around a table at a discrete fish restaurant in Beirut’s upscale Sodeco area.

Mr Joumblatt told The National that the fish served at Kelly’s Fish lounge had been very good.

“They really enjoyed their time”, remembers the restaurant owner. “Mr Hariri was taking selfies with everybody”.

Mr Hariri and Mr Joumblatt often have dinner together to discuss recent political developments.

Mr Joumblatt was a close ally of Mr Hariri’s assassinated father, former prime minister Rafik Hariri. The pair were leading figures in the political grouping against the 15-year Syrian occupation of Lebanon that ended after mass protests in 2005 in the wake of Rafik Hariri’s murder. After the younger Hariri took over his father’s mantle in 2004, the relationship with Mr Joumblatt endured.

However, the pair have not always been so close. In the run-up to the election last year, Messrs Hariri and Joumblatt went months without speaking over an argument regarding the new proportional electoral law to be used for the first time. Mr Joumblatt worried that a proportional system, which Mr Hariri backed, would see the influence of his small sect diminished.

With so much of Lebanese politics agreed in late-night meetings behind closed doors, the media and pundits put significant weight on how regularly, where and with who senior politicians meet.

In the picture, alongside Messrs Khoury and Hariri were Mr Joumbatt and his wife Nora, PSP politician Wael Abou Faour and Egyptian ambassador to Lebanon Nazih el Nagari.

The picture of the dinner led to a flurry of excitement on Twitter that it signified an imminent government formation. “God willing, white smoke will rise soon and Walid Beik [a nickname for Walid Joumblatt] will accept to give up the minister of industry”, one user replied to the tweet. “Blessings to you…We would like you to form a cabinet”, wrote another.  

The next few days will be crucial in determining whether these wishes come true.

The Book of Collateral Damage

Sinan Antoon

(Yale University Press)

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INDIA SQUAD

Rohit Sharma (captain), Shikhar Dhawan (vice-captain), KL Rahul, Suresh Raina, Manish Pandey, Dinesh Karthik (wicketkeeper), Deepak Hooda, Washington Sundar, Yuzvendra Chahal, Axar Patel, Vijay Shankar, Shardul Thakur, Jaydev Unadkat, Mohammad Siraj and Rishabh Pant (wicketkeeper)

Company%20profile
%3Cp%3EName%3A%20Tabby%3Cbr%3EFounded%3A%20August%202019%3B%20platform%20went%20live%20in%20February%202020%3Cbr%3EFounder%2FCEO%3A%20Hosam%20Arab%2C%20co-founder%3A%20Daniil%20Barkalov%3Cbr%3EBased%3A%20Dubai%2C%20UAE%3Cbr%3ESector%3A%20Payments%3Cbr%3ESize%3A%2040-50%20employees%3Cbr%3EStage%3A%20Series%20A%3Cbr%3EInvestors%3A%20Arbor%20Ventures%2C%20Mubadala%20Capital%2C%20Wamda%20Capital%2C%20STV%2C%20Raed%20Ventures%2C%20Global%20Founders%20Capital%2C%20JIMCO%2C%20Global%20Ventures%2C%20Venture%20Souq%2C%20Outliers%20VC%2C%20MSA%20Capital%2C%20HOF%20and%20AB%20Accelerator.%3Cbr%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
In numbers: China in Dubai

The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000

Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000

Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000

Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000

Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent

MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW

Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman

Director: Jesse Armstrong

Rating: 3.5/5

Updated: September 12, 2023, 7:37 AM