As the fallout from the pandemic continues, altering the way we think, shop and live, one thing has emerged from all the noise: a heightened awareness of the destruction humanity is wreaking on the planet.
Whether it is because of a renewed empathy, an increased awareness of global news, or simply weeks spent couped up at home with little distraction but the internet, collectively we have emerged from the crisis with a new, pro-planet perspective.
According to the MacArthur Foundation’s New Textiles Economy report in 2019, 1.4 billion animals a year are skinned for their leather. Quicklime is still routinely used to remove hair from leather in many developing countries, leading to chemical burns for workers, while the dispersal dyes used to colour synthetic fabrics such as polyester are difficult to remove from waste water, and are frequently flushed straight into the environment, resulting in the toxic poisoning of local plant and animal life.
Other chemicals such as flame retardants, resins and softeners even alter how natural fibres such as wool decompose, while the European Commission reported in October last year that child labour is still rife in 18 cotton-producing nations.
To counter this, an increasing number of companies in the GCC are offering ethical and cruelty-free alternatives to consumers who prefer not to fund bad practice. From the producers of yoga mats, loungewear and ultra-feminine fashion, here are some companies offering interesting pieces that don’t cost the earth.
Eurthlin
This UAE company was established in 2017 after its founders Natalie and Cobus Daghestani watched the documentary Earthlings. Horrified by the reality of the meat and leather industry, the duo decided to launch accessories made with cruelty-free alternatives, curating a collection of vegan leather bags in timeless shapes and with a signature print.
The materials used are certified by the Vegan Society, as well as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, as 100 per cent vegan and cruelty-free, which includes not just the “leather” but also all glue, inks, fabric dyes and finishes. Each bag is lined with Global Organic Textile Standard-certified cotton and grown without the use of pesticides, while dust bags are made from recycled plastic bottles.
Even the outer bag each item is shipped in can be safely composted at home, without chemical residue. The brand’s production facility has been certified and assessed by Amfori Business Social Compliance Initiative to ensure it reaches the standards for open and sustainable trading. In addition, for every bag sold, Eurthlin plants a tree with OneTreePlanet, an organisation working to tackle deforestation in the Amazon.
Reemami
In 2009, before conversations around sustainability became mainstream, Reema Al Banna launched her womenswear brand Reemami in the UAE with a commitment to reducing the waste, water and chemicals used as standard in the fashion industry.
To create its distinctive clashing patterns, Reemani uses local deadstock fabrics and Global Organic Textile Standard-certified organic cotton and denim, which is then dyed and silk-screen-printed toglobal standards. In addition to significantly reducing the amount of chemicals and water required, the label also repurposes fabric offcuts, which are usually just thrown away, into headbands and neck scarves.
The brand has vowed to never use child labour, fur, leather or feathers in its collections, and works hard to ensure its garment workers receive a fair living wage. Deliberately seasonless designs help to promote slow fashion and the brand’s strategy of producing only to order ensures there is no wastage.
Abadia
Hailing from Saudi Arabia, Abadia is committed to preserving heritage techniques through fashion. Taken from the Arabic words for desert (badiah) and timelessness (abadi), the name serves as a statement of intent to ensure traditional crafts are given a place in modern life.
Techniques such as al sadu weaving, which was added to the Unesco List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2020, are used along with modern colours to bring a touch of history to each piece and to introduce these craft traditions to a new audience. Abadia also uses deadstock fabrics, organic cotton and recycled polyester in its creations, in addition to faux leather, with the only exception being post-consumer camel leather.
Fabric leftovers are repurposed into toys and packaging to reduce waste to the absolute minimum, while all Abadia pieces are made in Lebanon, helping to support the industry in the country and offer workers a living wage.
The Giving Movement
Launched in the UAE in 2020, at the height of the pandemic, the Giving Movement came into being when Dominic Nowell-Barnes spotted a gap in the market for sustainable, comfortable leisurewear. After a year spent researching materials and their various environmental effects, he settled on sustainable fabrics such as Global Organic Textile Standard-certified cotton, fast-growing bamboo and nylon woven from recycled plastic water bottles.
To ensure ethical working conditions for garment-makers, all of the Giving Movement’s pieces are made in the UAE by workers who receive a living wage and have a two-day weekend. Such proximity means the company can guarantee there is no exploitation or child labour in its supply chain.
The Giving Movement also donates $4 per item sold to Dubai Cares and Harmony House, a smaller charity that helps children living on the streets in India. Initially hoping to raise $100,000 in its first 12 months, in December last year it passed the $1 million mark. It has recently expanded to offer children’s clothes and a modest line, and in April staged a month-long exhibition, Let Live or Let Die, in partnership with Bayt Al Mamzar Art Gallery in Dubai, to raise environmental awareness.
Glossy Lounge
Another home-grown loungewear and shapewear brand, Glossy Lounge is working to reduce its environmental footprint while promoting inclusivity. Using only Global Organic Textile Standard-certified cotton, bamboo and Global Recycle Standard-certified recycled polyester, it offers a range of underwear, shapewear and loungewear in sizes XS to XL.
It also offers menswear and children’s staples. Recently, it announced a partnership with Emirates Nature, part of the Worldwide Wildlife Fund, to donate money from every purchase to help restore UAE mangroves, which serve a vital role in protecting sea life and coastal regions.
Wild Fabrik
Established in August 2020, Wild Fabrik is an e-commerce platform for sustainable fashion and homeware. With a focus on high-quality natural ingredients and fabrics, it aims to support small businesses and artisanal workshops, while offering a one-stop solution for those seeking ethical goods.
Before a brand is added to the website, it is screened to confirm it is cruelty-free, pays workers a living wage and is plant-based. Wild Fabrik’s wide offering runs from clothing, including an array of vintage pieces, to embroidered linen napkins by Pamuke, a banana fibre yoga mat by Earthistic and bedding made from Egyptian cotton.
It has also partnered with UAE non-profit environmental organisation Azraq to help fund the replanting of mangroves around Dubai. To promote a circular economy, customers are encouraged to return any items they no longer need, to be donated to Thrift for Good, where they will be sold to help some of the world’s most deprived children.
Tribe of 6
This brand is the newest addition to the regional sustainability scene, and takes its name from the six degrees of separation thought to link everyone together. Like Glossy Lounge and The Giving Movement, Tribe of 6 specialises in athleisure, including T-shirts, long-sleeve tops and tracksuits made from certified organic cotton and sustainable, fast-growing bamboo, while 45 per cent of the collection is made from recycled materials.
Founded by the Kuwaiti Alshaya Group, Tribe of 6 aims to be inclusive, with sizes ranging from XS to XXXL. With several items made to be fully reversible, it is helping to promote a more conscious and flexible approach to dressing.
All woven labels in the clothes are made from recycled fabrics, certified by the Global Recycling Standard, while paper price tags are made under the guidance of the Forest Stewardship Council to ensure proper forest management. Pieces are designed and made in the UAE, with working conditions and wages overseen by Sedex, an ethical trade membership organisation that aims to improve working conditions in the global supply chain.
The specs
- Engine: 3.9-litre twin-turbo V8
- Power: 640hp
- Torque: 760nm
- On sale: 2026
- Price: Not announced yet
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Results
6pm: Dubai Trophy – Conditions (TB) $100,000 (Turf) 1,200m
Winner: Silent Speech, William Buick (jockey), Charlie Appleby
(trainer)
6.35pm: Jumeirah Derby Trial – Conditions (TB) $60,000 (T)
1,800m
Winner: Island Falcon, Frankie Dettori, Saeed bin Suroor
7.10pm: UAE 2000 Guineas Trial – Conditions (TB) $60,000 (Dirt)
1,400m
Winner: Rawy, Mickael Barzalona, Salem bin Ghadayer
7.45pm: Al Rashidiya – Group 2 (TB) $180,000 (T) 1,800m
Winner: Desert Fire, Hector Crouch, Saeed bin Suroor
8.20pm: Al Fahidi Fort – Group 2 (TB) $180,000 (T) 1,400m
Winner: Naval Crown, William Buick, Charlie Appleby
8.55pm: Dubawi Stakes – Group 3 (TB) $150,000 (D) 1,200m
Winner: Al Tariq, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watsons
9.30pm: Aliyah – Rated Conditions (TB) $80,000 (D) 2,000m
Winner: Dubai Icon, Patrick Cosgrave, Saeed bin Suroor
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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
The rules on fostering in the UAE
A foster couple or family must:
- be Muslim, Emirati and be residing in the UAE
- not be younger than 25 years old
- not have been convicted of offences or crimes involving moral turpitude
- be free of infectious diseases or psychological and mental disorders
- have the ability to support its members and the foster child financially
- undertake to treat and raise the child in a proper manner and take care of his or her health and well-being
- A single, divorced or widowed Muslim Emirati female, residing in the UAE may apply to foster a child if she is at least 30 years old and able to support the child financially
THE BIO
Ms Davison came to Dubai from Kerala after her marriage in 1996 when she was 21-years-old
Since 2001, Ms Davison has worked at many affordable schools such as Our Own English High School in Sharjah, and The Apple International School and Amled School in Dubai
Favourite Book: The Alchemist
Favourite quote: Failing to prepare is preparing to fail
Favourite place to Travel to: Vienna
Favourite cuisine: Italian food
Favourite Movie : Scent of a Woman
Stage result
1. Jasper Philipsen (Bel) Alpecin-Fenix 4:42:34
2. Sam Bennett (Irl) Bora-Hansgrohe
3. Elia Viviani (Ita) Ineos Grenadiers
4. Dylan Groenewegen (Ned) BikeExchange-Jayco
5. Emils Liepins (Lat) Trek-Segafredo
6. Arnaud Demare (Fra) Groupama-FDJ
7. Max Kanter (Ger) Movistar Team
8. Olav Kooij (Ned) Jumbo-Visma
9. Tom Devriendt (Bel) Intermarché-Wanty-Gobert Matériaux
10. Pascal Ackermann (Ger) UAE Team Emirate
Singham Again
Director: Rohit Shetty
Stars: Ajay Devgn, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ranveer Singh, Akshay Kumar, Tiger Shroff, Deepika Padukone
Rating: 3/5
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Tightening the screw on rogue recruiters
The UAE overhauled the procedure to recruit housemaids and domestic workers with a law in 2017 to protect low-income labour from being exploited.
Only recruitment companies authorised by the government are permitted as part of Tadbeer, a network of labour ministry-regulated centres.
A contract must be drawn up for domestic workers, the wages and job offer clearly stating the nature of work.
The contract stating the wages, work entailed and accommodation must be sent to the employee in their home country before they depart for the UAE.
The contract will be signed by the employer and employee when the domestic worker arrives in the UAE.
Only recruitment agencies registered with the ministry can undertake recruitment and employment applications for domestic workers.
Penalties for illegal recruitment in the UAE include fines of up to Dh100,000 and imprisonment
But agents not authorised by the government sidestep the law by illegally getting women into the country on visit visas.
Avengers: Endgame
Directors: Anthony Russo, Joe Russo
Starring: Robert Downey Jr, Chris Evans, Scarlett Johansson, Chris Hemsworth, Josh Brolin
4/5 stars
Skoda Superb Specs
Engine: 2-litre TSI petrol
Power: 190hp
Torque: 320Nm
Price: From Dh147,000
Available: Now
AIR
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Company profile
Date started: December 24, 2018
Founders: Omer Gurel, chief executive and co-founder and Edebali Sener, co-founder and chief technology officer
Based: Dubai Media City
Number of employees: 42 (34 in Dubai and a tech team of eight in Ankara, Turkey)
Sector: ConsumerTech and FinTech
Cashflow: Almost $1 million a year
Funding: Series A funding of $2.5m with Series B plans for May 2020