Brunch at: Cocktail Kitchen, Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai

A rosette of cured salmon came served on a marble plate dotted with beetroot puree and dill. Rebecca Duane / The National
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Location:

Cocktail Kitchen is an urban snug that’s located within Armada Tower 2, in Cluster P of JLT. The nearest metro stations to the venue are Damac and JLT; the sophisticated eatery is also easily reached from Sheikh Zayed Road by taxi.

Atmosphere:

Design features from a sleek and expansive bar to clusters of light wood furniture and Americana seltzers bottles on the tables, give the venue a unique look and feel. The walls are dotted with classic photos of starlets and celebrity cool cats from a bygone era, harking back to an age of effortless chic. The décor would seem to match CK’s clientele for this a place where hipsters come to see and be seen and Dubai’s foodies come to savour the Mediterranean culinary offerings.

A long table of millennials was in celebratory mood on the day my dining companion and I visited. Feeling equally at home were couples, gaggles of girlfriends and families with adult children. Keeping things swinging was an endless stream of chilled tunes; hip-hop and bossa nova beats from a live DJ.

The food:

In a word, knock-out. The concept is a sharing one at CK and this is a meal with an emphasis on pace and not race. Portions are generous and the presentation clean and classy.

Of the ‘nibbles’, a rosette of cured salmon came served on a marble plate dotted with beetroot puree and dill mayonnaise, framed in halo of breadcrumbs. Also proving a hit, olive Ascolana – otherwise known as gargantuan olives, stuffed with a beef ragout and semi-dried organic tomatoes and then fried. The bronzed bites from Italy’s Marche region - so rarely found on UAE menus - were served in playful fashion in paper scrolls with a side of basil mayo.

Standout starters comprised grilled octopus with lemon aioli, beef Carpaccio with caper berries and Grana Padano, plus Josper grilled prawns with a tangy tartar sauce.

Following which, my guest and I tussled for the last forkful of slow-cooked short rib of beef with noisette potatoes and baby-roasted carrots. For fish-lovers, the far-and-away-winner of the day was the whole roast sea bream, which fell off the bone and melted in the mouth.

Deserts were elegant and unfussy and those with a sweet tooth should plump for the zuppa Inglese. The feather-light sponge – the texture of which was dense like savoiardi - was prettied on the plate with pearls of cream, a coral-red sugar base and refreshing blackberry sorbet.

The verdict:

The tag line reads, ‘feel at home, you’re amongst friends’, and as the hours while away you surely will – without ever being force-fed the philosophy from staff. It’s a restaurant that let’s the food speak for itself and it stands head-and-shoulders above its JLT rivals in the culinary stakes.

Fans of mocktails are also in very safe hands with crowd pleasers like ‘Someone that I yuzu to know’ - made up of yuzu, grapefruit, wild elderflower, egg white and soda water – on the menu. Another one worth a try, as the mercury rises, is called Allones Bonnes, comprising red grape juice, nougat, anise, citrus and fresh mint. Click on our video to see CK’s senior bartender Richard Y. Ayap shake things up.

Broaden your horizons, venture outside of your comfort zone and beat a path to a place that puts equal effort into its signature drinks as its house dishes. The outing won’t break the bank either with Friday food packages starting from just Dh195 and all-inclusive deals topping out at Dh345 per person.

Coming up:

Jazz Dub takes place on Monday’s with an aperitivo hour from 5-8pm and beverages from Dh25. As tunes from artists including Dexter Gordan and Miles Davis fill the air, patrons will receive a 25% reduction on their food and drink bill between 8-11pm.

Long aperitivo evenings are held on Saturday’s and include live music, food and drink from 5-8pm. A wide selection of canapés and three selected beverages can be sampled for just Dh100.

For reservations call 056 828 0727 or click here to make a booking.

The National was a guest of the venue.