I thought I’d become desensitised to fine dining prices in major cities, until I saw a Dh450 Caesar salad on a menu at a restaurant last week. That’s $122 or £91 for a bowl of lettuce, croutons and dressing.
Sure, the fine dining restaurant scene is expensive, but who can afford, or justify, that kind of spend on a salad?
The dish sits on the list of relatively typical starters at a well-known restaurant in Dubai. It isn’t the most expensive item on the list − that would be the whole king crab leg for Dh690 − but it stands out when compared to the eggplant salad (Dh85) or even the Dh185 burrata.
The price of the dish has ruffled feathers among my friends and family. “Guess how much a Caesar salad I saw recently costs?” is how I have started the lion’s share of my conversations this week. My mum guessed Dh60. My dad joked Dh80. A friend said Dh55. None of them got close.
What justifies this price? That remains to be seen, because I didn’t order it. No, I couldn’t justify it, even in the name of research!
Traditional Caesar ingredients are relatively inexpensive. It’s a simple enough salad of lettuce, Parmesan cheese, croutons and Caesar dressing, which is made of egg yolks, olive oil, anchovies, garlic and Parmesan.
So, what is in this particular salad? Gold (we know that is popular these days!)? Caviar? Truffle? The menu lists the ingredients as simply: crouton, baby jem (sic) and Parmesan cheese.
Perhaps the full name of the dish is something of a key to the price tag – it's named after a high-end beverage brand, which sells for about Dh1,200 in-store in Dubai, and for much more at bars. I was told it’s incorporated into the dressing.
Are these dishes purely expensive by design, something intentionally created to ruffle feathers? Or is there a market for these extremely pricey plates?
At one popular restaurant in Dubai, you can buy 200g of Almas caviar for Dh44,000. The cheapest caviar on the menu is 50g of white surgeon, which comes in at Dh540.
In the past we have written about a Dh2,999 ice cream, a sundae I'd argue was created more to grab headlines than entice customers. It routinely goes viral for its high price tag. And please don't get me started on gilded steaks.
This has all got me thinking more broadly about the cost of fine dining in the region. Hospitality is a challenging and overcrowded industry. Countless restaurants are forced to close every year as the industry gets more and more difficult to keep afloat in, between high operating costs, import challenges and complex regulatory systems. I also understand that there are high overheads to cover.
We do see phenomenal restaurants open up, make an impact and endeavour to keep costs as close to an accessible level as possible for the customers. At some Michelin-starred restaurants, you can get a two-course lunch menu for Dh125 and starters range from Dh58 to Dh255. Another Michelin-starred restaurant offers a two-course lunch for Dh99; its evening tasting menus start at Dh395.
That said, set menus that cost more than Dh1,000 are cropping up more and more. At what stage will it become de rigueur for a meal to cost more than Dh2,000 per person? It feels like that is the trajectory we’re on.
This month, a $400 melon has gone viral in the US. The New York Times drew attention to the Japanese-export musk melon being sold at Farm & Forage in the Hamptons. According to the publication, it is noted for its remarkable sweetness, despite the fact that it “looks identical to a regular grocery-store cantaloupe” to the undiscerning eye.
Pricing has rolled out of control, becoming a parody of itself. It is as if those setting the prices have been inspired by the scene in Arrested Development, when a notably financially out-of-touch Lucille Bluth quips: “It's one banana, how much could it possibly cost? $10?”
I don’t think I have a solution. Of course, there are always more affordable options available and no one is forcing me to try or pay for a Dh450 salad, so I suppose that is a resolution in and of itself. But I have no doubt that this particular sky-high price will leave a bad taste in my mouth for a while – or at least until I spot a Dh700 soup on another menu.
