Keeping in step with its sister restaurants in Miami, Mayfair and Manchester, the Dubai outpost of Sexy Fish – which opened on December 4 – brings its immersive Japanese-inspired dining experience and sophisticated fusion of art with entertainment to the Emirates.
The brand lives up to its international reputation. People are dressed to the nines, the design is undeniably eye-catching even if you don’t you feel the need to document your evening on social media and, as the night progresses, patrons seem to be enlivened by the atmosphere.
What to expect & where to sit
The marine-maximalist restaurant delivers seating varying in mood, intimacy level and comfort. The reception is bathed in aqua blue with dabbles of coral pink. A Damien Hirst octopus sculpture seems to reach out into the abyss like an enchanting kraken. If you head to level 11, the lift comes with an iridescent mosaic oceanic floor.
The restaurant itself unravels with a diaphanous floor and sensual siren sculptures. Other design details include jellyfish table lamps, Murano-tentacled pillars and a school of bespoke fish lights around the bar, making for an ethereal vibe with carefully curated music.
You can sit at the striking Brudnizki-designed bar and be in the thick of the action, or head to the dining section for a more conversational evening. I recommend the wraparound terrace to enjoy Dubai’s cooler weather and uninterrupted skyline. Just remember to dress warm because it was quite chilly on our recent visit.
We take a seat opposite the bar on the banquette with high tables, which is apt if you enjoy interacting with the other patrons and it is also the perfect vantage point to experience the DJ’s sensational sets.
The menu
The menu comprises dishes to share and the type of dish often dictates the portion sizes, but these are fairly generous throughout. A large group can easily sample several dishes without feeling worn out by the end as they tend to blend into one another without firm course boundaries.
My dining partner and I start with yellowtail sashimi (Dh98), which is fresh and crisp with citrus notes of green mandarin. Crispy truffled tofu (Dh78) is a great vegetarian option, and comes with a panko coating that is meticulously seasoned without being greasy or overpowering the firm yet lush tofu within.
From among the signature maki, we pick the rather eccentric foie gras and unagi (Dh126). This maki will leave tables divided, with some delighting in its richness and luxury, while the other half claiming the bold flavours fight each other. It’s an interesting combination nonetheless and best approached with curiosity.
I adore octopus, and the takoyaki croquettes (Dh68) are sublime, with a deep umami flavour, dancing bonito flakes and custom takoyaki sauce.
For mains, we get spicy beef tenderloin (Dh243) and whole baby chicken (Dh154), both from the robata grill. The beef is delicious and more on the rare side of medium-rare much to my pleasure, with a good portion size for two to share. The chicken is moist and flavourful with yuzu and paired playfully with hummus.
Pleasantly sated on the ambience and food, we find space for two desserts from the plentiful menu – raspberry doughnuts (Dh68) and the always popular chocolate fondant (Dh73). The doughnuts are cheerfully presented on a coral-like stand and are light and delicious with a matcha creme patisserie. I did find myself wishing the hollow doughnuts were filled with cream and some raspberry too, though. The fondant goes surprisingly well with mango curd cutting through the rich chocolate, making it easier to indulge in it fully.
Standout dish
Much to my carnivorous stomach’s surprise, the crispy truffled tofu is the dish I remember long after the meal. My companion notes it's the best tofu he's ever had, and I must agree. It takes a simple, rather mild ingredient and reforms it with skilled technique, deft flavouring and years of culinary experience.
About the chef
Speaking of culinary experience, chef Bjoern Weissgerber has this in spades. Having worked at famed restaurants such as El Bulli and Mugaritz, and under mentors such as Alfons Schuhbeck and Eckart Witzigmann, the German-Swedish chef got his first Michelin star at the age of 27, for Ca’s Puers in Mallorca.
His cooking style spans German, French and contemporary Japanese fare, and Weissgerber was instrumental in setting up new restaurants all over the world for the Zuma group followed by taking over the reins at Sexy Fish.
Price point and contact information
Salads range from Dh46 to Dh142; snacks are priced between Dh68 and Dh135; gyoza and skewer options cost Dh50 to Dh217; maki, sashimi and nigiri costs Dh50 to Dh480; seafood ranges from Dh138 to Dh520; meat dishes cost between Dh154 and Dh860.
Sexy Fish is located at Innovation One in the Dubai International Financial Centre, and is open from 5pm to 2am. Reservations can be made by calling 04 381 9000.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
