He's been designing for the Indian elite, Bollywood and Hollywood celebrities for almost 20 years. And on Thursday, Gaurav Gupta finally made it to the official Paris haute couture week calendar, sharing the stage with some of the world's most well-known couturiers.
"I feel like I’m finally home," the designer told Vogue India ahead of his show.
"I’ve been working in fashion since I was 15. So I guess it’s a 25-year-old dream in the making. When I was a student at Central Saint Martins about 20 years back, and even I used to work with Hussein Chalayan backstage and attend different shows, I just knew I had to be here."
The Middle East was represented by established houses Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad, which delivered assured haute couture collections.
Gupta showcased 35 looks in total, introducing his signature sculpted fabrics, many featuring wing-like creations that twisted around his models. Embroidered with crystals, many of the looks, in a variety of colours — from gold to silver and electric blue — gave his collection an effervescent quality.
The collection took six months to put together, from developing concepts and sketches to sourcing, dyeing and embroidering fabrics.
He said he named his collection Shunya, the Sanskrit word for zero, which was invented in India.
"When zero was discovered ... the world expanded into infinity. Time was no longer linear," he told CNN.
"When people see my collections, they say, 'Your clothes are very beautiful but they're not very Indian,' which isn't right.
"There's a sense of fluid form, maximalism, the techniques and craftsmanship — all of that is Indian. I want to challenge the perception of the words 'India' or 'Indianness'."
Scroll through the gallery below for collections by Arab designers at Paris haute couture week
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Shades of champagne and muted golds at the Rami Al Ali spring 2023 couture show, shown alongside Paris Haute Couture Week. Photo: Rami Al Ali -
Stiffened silk faille folds edge a gown at Rami Al Ali. Photo: Rami Al Ali -
A metallic beaded dress that shifts from lavender to silver at Rami Al Ali. Photo: Rami Al Ali -
Gold beads are softened with lilac chiffon at Rami Al Ali. Photo: Rami Al Ali -
A beaded dress is softened with an overlayer of chiffon, at Rami Al Ali spring 2023 couture. Photo: Rami Al Ali -
A pale blue gown embellished with muted silver at Rami Al Ali. Photo: Rami Al Ali -
A tailored mini dress is framed with strips of leather at the Ashi Studio spring 2023 couture collection in Paris. Photo: Ashi Studio -
An armour-like dress, moulded around the body, at the Ashi Studio show. Photo: Ashi Studio -
Soft folds float on a translucent dress at Ashi Studio. Photo: Ashi Studio -
A skirt stands proud on the hips at Ashi Studio. Photo: Ashi Studio -
Soft feathers are contrasted with rigid boning at Ashi Studio. Photo: Ashi Studio -
A stiff A-line mini dress with exaggerated sleeves at Ashi Studio. Photo: Ashi Studio -
Molten silver looks at the Zuhair Murad Haute Couture spring 2023 show in Paris. Getty Images -
Sequins and feathers in hot pink at the Zuhair Murad show. Getty Images -
An evening gown in rich cerise at Zuhair Murad. Getty Images -
A cobweb beaded look at Zuhair Murad. Getty Images -
A cowled, hooded dress in soft pink at Zuhair Murad. Getty Images -
A gown in sunset orange at Zuhair Murad. Getty Images -
A draped gown in periwinkle blue by Elie Saab. EPA -
The Elie Saab spring 2023 haute couture show offered this feathered gown in seafoam green. EPA -
One of the menswear looks at the Elie Saab spring 2023 haute couture show in Paris. EPA -
Intricately pieced chiffon and beadwork at Elie Saab. Getty Images -
Pale blue patterns at Elie Saab. Getty Images -
A lace cape over a trouser suit at Elie Saab. Getty Images
