Design Museum's Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion exhibition opens ahead of fashion week

Show celebrates looks that have launched the careers of UK-based contemporary designers

Head of exhibitions at the Design Museum Elise Foster Vander Elst arranges the 'swan dress' designed by Marjan Pejoski and worn by Icelandic singer Bjork at the 2001 Oscars during the preview of the exhibition Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion at the Design Museum, in London. AFP

The exhibition will open on September 16, 2023 until February 11, 2024 and will coincide with the London Fashion Week. Reuters

Employee Grace Morgan adjusts a design by Molly Goddard, made famous by Rihanna. Reuters

An employee poses as she views various designs which form part of the "REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion" exhibition at the Design Museum in London, Britain September 11, 2023. REUTERS / Toby Melville

Vander Elst with a design by Erdem Moralioglu. Reuters

Footwear detail is seen on a design by Meadham Kirchhoff. Reuters

The exhibition is a collaboration with the British Fashion Council and will celebrate the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s Newgen programme, an initiative that supports the emerging fashion design talent. AFP

A mannequin dressed with an outfit from the brand The Knit Monster, a knitwear fashion label created by British designers Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery. AFP

Mannequins dressed with creations by British designer Meadham Kirchhoff. AFP

Dresses by Christopher Kane on display at the exhibition. Reuters

A controversial "swan dress" worn by Bjork at the Oscars in 2001 and Sam Smith's inflatable suit at this year's Brit Awards are among items to be displayed at a landmark exhibition at the Design Museum in London.

Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion opens on Saturday to coincide with London Fashion Week. A collaboration with British Fashion Council, the exhibition "tells the story of hundreds of fearless young designers who have transformed the fashion landscape, and will bring together exuberant, rebellious and radical garments," the Kensington museum said.

The show is also a celebration of the BFC's Newgen programme, an initiative that supports the best emerging fashion design talent.

Close to 100 looks will be featured, spanning debut and early collections, many of which have launched the careers of its UK-based designers.

Kerala-born Harri, who designed Smith's head-turning suit, is a London College of Fashion graduate who is known for his collections that feature inflatable latex trousers, dubbed by media as "balloon pants".

A Newgen shortlisted designer, he launched his eponymous label as soon as he graduated with a master of arts in menswear, and began working between London and New Delhi.

Last September, Harri, whose real name Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai, made his London Fashion Week debut, on the opening day of the spring/summer 2023 shows.

Bjork's swan dress was created by Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski, and made headlines for its outrageous and outlandish statement – something the Icelandic musician said was always the intention. Pejoski is still a favourite among celebrities today.

Other looks featured in the exhibition include Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey-Daley outfit from his video for Golden and Rihanna's Molly Goddard blue tulle dress, which became a fashion sensation in 2017.

Collections and work by designers JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha and Russell Sage also feature among others. The items will be shown alongside films, drawings, memorabilia and never-before-seen archive materials from the designers.

Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion runs at the Design Museum until February 11, 2024. Details about tickets and opening hours are available at designmuseum.org