A model wearing pieces from the designer Wafa Al Kathiri’s Malikat Allail Spring/Summer 2012 collection at Dubai Fashion Week.
A model wearing pieces from the designer Wafa Al Kathiri’s Malikat Allail Spring/Summer 2012 collection at Dubai Fashion Week.

Dubai Fashion Week offers up glitz, glamour and business



With a new creative director for Dubai Fashion Week harnessing a well-padded résumé of fashion-fabulous positions this season, attendees were expecting big things.

The Arena at the Dubai World Trade Centre was the venue of choice for this season's DFW, which kicked off on Wednesday night. Many red-sole pumps stormed the trade centre venue for the opening night ceremony. The "invitation only" debut was well-received overall, with a cultural juxtaposition of Arabian tradition meets contemporary fashion.

An indoor desert was created with man-made sand dunes, which swept over the catwalk. Models donning a selection of statement designer pieces dotted the make-believe desert theatre. Additional theatrical elements, such as falcons and traditional dance, proudly showcased the culture of the region.

Payal Patel, self-described partygoer, called it "a spectacular production… the surprise entrance with a model on a horse led by a traditionally dressed Emirati man really gave the show the wow factor".

The DFW designer schedule overall has a diverse range of Arab, south-east Asian, European and western shows lined up. In total, 28 catwalk shows will see models march down the runway cloaked in spring/summer 2012 collections.

Five up-and-coming, new-generation designers will be fleshing out the Emerging Talent section. Once again, we have a DFW that provides us with an international designer list, with a few local names added in for good measure.

On the operational side of things, model castings took place in Sydney and Hong Kong, resulting in a bevy of beautiful models jetted in for the event.

This season the production comes under the direction of international producer Jack Bedwani, who has worked with Diane von Furstenberg, Zac Posen and Marc Jacobs in the production of their catwalk shows. Technical director Troy Daniel also adds experienced value, having worked with one of the most popular experimental designers in the fashion industry: Vivienne Westwood.

Returning to the catwalk was last year's DFW Emerging Talent award winner Kalid Swaid, who exhibited on day two with his Zori Couture line.

"The collection used experimental techniques, elegance and whimsical femininity," he said. Swaid holds degrees from the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and from Polimoda in Florence, Italy. "I wanted to showcase cooling colours, with an innovative combination of beadwork and fabrics of the highest quality."

On day three, whimsical designer brand Orkalia set the tone for romance with strategically placed candles forming the stage's centrepiece. Ambient candle light flickered as models walked gracefully down the runway. The collection included flowing layers combined with elegant embroidery. An array of stunning sheer pieces completed the story-book feel of the collection.

Friday night saw the first-time DFW show of the Emirati designer Wafa Al Kathiri, with her collection called Malikat Allail (Queens of the Night). "I wanted to be ready before I showed my fashion collection," she said. She was humble and soft-spoken, surrounded by a massive collection of Emirati friends and supporters during her interview.

"We're so proud she's following her dreams" one person said.

"She's an inspiration for us to follow our dreams," another added.

Among the stylish hustle and bustle of the crowd, creative director Simon Lock urged designers showing this season "to learn how to use the fashion week to their advantage".

Away from the glitz and glamour, the event is an industry trade event. Have buyers been part of the audience this season?

"Well," said Lock, "I can tell you there are more buyers attending this season when compared with previous seasons."

After all, the real nuts and bolts of fashion weeks are not the media-hyped social scene of photographers and glitterati. Fashion weeks are positioned as business-focused trade events for the industry to have a collective meeting point, where designers display their finest offerings. Will department stores and boutiques in the region stock DFW spring/summer 2012 collections? That remains to be seen.

TRAP

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