Behind the celebrations, the glamour and the excitement of Dubai Fashion Week, some commentators were seriously asking the question: do the designers of Dubai actually know how to cut a piece of cloth into anything beyond a kaftan, a smock dress or a frothy evening gown? As pretty patterned dress after pretty patterned dress came wafting slowly down the catwalk, the audience's attention wandered to the lumpen seams, mismatched patterns and ill-fitting pieces that were spotted in several of the shows. There was even a split zip, much to the delight of the rowdy photographers' pit.
Meanwhile fabrics, though rich and bright, were not universally high quality, with a good number of synthetics where silks and cottons would have been more appropriate. A simple lack of technical know-how, couture-style refinement and attention to detail marked several of the collections. Of course, the exhibitors are, in fact, working fashion companies seeking buyers locally and internationally, so the same A-line tent dresses, one-shoulder dresses and empire-line, halter-neck evening gowns that appeared across the shows do point to the practical, saleable realities of catering to some of Dubai's customers. Indeed, the local boutique buyers seemed very happy with both the event's increasingly efficient organisation and the attractive, unchallenging clothes. Tanya Ashraf, buying for her Ajman-based boutique, felt that the level of embellishment and the shortness of some of the dresses was less suitable for her more conservative customers in the northern Emirates, but in general, the reaction among the buyers was positive.
Among the most impressive pieces were the opulent tulle and lace creations of one of Dubai's favourite designers, Walid Atallah, which were perfectly judged for his well-established customers, appearing in rich burgundies, oyster, coffee and gold, with giant net skirts springing out from curve-clinging shapes. The feeling was Dangerous Liaisons meets Hammer Horror, and his happy, packed audience will no doubt be putting plenty of orders his way.
Equally extravagant, though with very different styles, were the Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani and the Pakistani designer HSY (Hassan Sheheryar Yasin) (whose new shop will launch in Dubai soon, as well as a collection for Luxecouture). Both showed their colleagues what craftsmanship really means, with intricate and meticulous embroidery, refined cutting and judicious colour choices - a far cry from the "melting-pot" colour techniques of some designers.
The younger, easier, more frothy looks by the likes of Charu Parashar, Raakhee Raipanchola and Mumbai Se's Geisha will find a ready audience in the Emirates, while Buffi Jashanmal's quirky new Quiet Riot line will appeal to the hitherto neglected rebellious, fashion-forward inhabitants of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. And of course Dubai's favourite home-grown designer, Essa, who ended the shows with a colourful finale, will always delight his fans with his kaleidoscope vision.
The two outstanding shows, though, came from Middle Eastern companies working within their own design vernacular: Hatem Alakeel, a Saudi designer who presented his existing menswear line, Toby, and a new womenswear line; and Monyati, a line of sophisticated abayas designed by Huda Ridha and Amna Sultan. Alakeel's menswear updated the thobe or kandura with Western inspirations and Italian shirting fabrics, but always with the lightest touch, and with fine tailoring techniques that would not be out of place on London's Jermyn Street or Savile Row. His womenswear used GCC-inspired details, such as kandura fabrics and cuts, to create supremely simple, refined women's separates. Monyati's abayas, meanwhile, used delicate chiffons and rich, clean trims in plain metallics or kimono patterns to add shape and definition to one of the UAE's most identifiable garments.
And these successes are perhaps the most important of the week. As Alakeel said before the show, "I think Dubai can be a new fashion capital, but only if it works with its own style." While the colour and beauty of India's finest designers, not to mention the quality and workmanship, do help to raise the bar for local designers, the international profile of the event will - and should - remain small until buyers can be sure of finding something uniquely Middle Eastern here.
Sure, it's huge fun for the fashionistas of the Emirates to watch the front rows, dress up for the parties, meet the designers and appear in the party pages. And yes, it's a great experience for up-and-coming designers to put on a catwalk show. But until the event can attract the best designers of the Middle East, and the Dubai rag trade becomes a thriving part of the local economy, rather than a home for vanity projects and underpaid tailors, Dubai Fashion Week risks remaining simply a very well-funded local trade show, a satellite to Asia's other events such as Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week.
In other words, it's still early days. gchamp@thenational.ae
