'Alber is back!' The eagerly awaited AZ Factory launches at Paris Haute Couture Week

Israeli designer Alber Elbaz returns to fashion after five years

Alber Elbaz's new brand AZ Factory launched at Paris Haute Couture Week. Courtesy AZ Factory

My Body offers sporty pieces that can be worn anywhere. Courtesy AZ Factory

With new thinking, AZ Factory offers 'Switchwear', outer pieces that can be added to a look to upscale it instantly. Courtesy AZ Factory

Deprived of hugs due to social distancing, AZ Factory designer Alber Elbaz created 'hug' inspired prints. Courtesy AZ Factory

With gold chain zip pulls, 'My Body' dresses are designed to be easy to wear. Courtesy AZ Factory

'Switchwear' layers are designed to be added as needed, to inject instant chic. Courtesy AZ Factory

Catering to all body shapes, 'My Body' dresses are about making women 'appear, not disappear'. Courtesy AZ Factory

Hot pink and red layers from AZ Factory. Courtesy AZ Factory

Printed separates by AZ Factory, to be combined any which way. Courtesy AZ Factory

A model steps into a 'Switchwear' skirt, showing how the concept works. Courtesy AZ Factory

A 'My Body' dress. Courtesy AZ Factory

Bold hug-inspired prints by AZ Factory. Courtesy AZ Factory

AZ Factory presented ways to dress up sportswear, with bright layers. Courtesy AZ Factory

Newly invented technical fabrics offer new ways of dressing. Courtesy AZ Factory

"Alber is back!" Vogue Japan's editor-at-large Anna Dello Russo shouted to camera, neatly capturing the excitement of the entire fashion industry over the return of Alber Elbaz. While seemingly lost for words, the usually erudite fashion critic Suzy Menkes simply yelled: "Yippeeee."

After being unceremoniously ousted from Lanvin in 2015, Elbaz has made his return to fashion. When he announced his new venture in 2020, entitled AZ Factory (using "letters that top and tail my name"), he declared it would offer a completely different approach. At the launch on Tuesday he stayed true to his word.

During Paris Haute Couture Week, Elbaz delivered his debut digital offering, not as a collection or season, and certainly not as a capsule (the self-confessed hypochondriac admitted the word reminded him too much of medicine), but instead as a television programme.

On screen, sitting at a desk, he explained he had “needed time to fall in love with fashion again”.

In the interim, he's taken his time to travel, and it was a moment in Silicon Valley that sparked had a new way of thinking. "Can fashion and technology coexist?" he asked. "Is fashion still relevant?" As affirmed in his speech and in the clothes, the answer is a resounding yes.

Starting with the little black dress, Elbaz explained how he went back to basics, to create an outfit using highly technical fabrics. His aim was to create dresses that allow women to “appear, not disappear”. Taking his cue from wetsuits, he even added a long tab – now as a golden chain – to help women reach the zip.

Next he showed us a diamond jewellery collection (he is backed by Richemont, the luxury goods holding company), before upscale sneakers, which he had given a pump-like point he charmingly dubbed the "sneaky pump". Then came un-sporty sportswear, with leggings, bodycon skirts and myriad zipped tops, followed by one-zip dressy layers to add on top for instant chic.

Finally, declaring that the hardest thing for him about social distancing was the lack of physical contact, Elbaz presented a series of prints all about hugs and love across comfort wear such as pyjamas, silk tracksuits and oversize trousers.

Elbaz concluded by explaining that AZ Factory was about listening to what women wanted, and providing intelligent solutions.

Meanwhile, a screen filled with major figures from the fashion world, all saying how happy they are to have this extraordinary designer back.

Beloved by all in the notoriously catty industry, Elbaz is a rare talent.

We watched as Anna Wintour, Gabriela Hearst and Maria Grazia Chiuri welcomed him back into the fold, delighted to have his energy present once more. However, it was Marc Jacobs who said it best. Seemingly speaking for the legions of fans across the world, Jacobs simply said "Alber, I have missed you."